DrStrong's 2009 post showcases a rare Tudor Big Crown Submariner reference 7924, a model manufactured by Rolex for the French Marine Nationale in the late 1950s. He shares his personal experience of sourcing these vintage military diver's watches and provides a detailed examination of the 7924's unique characteristics and exceptional condition. This article offers valuable insights into the early days of SCUBA diving watches and the specific features that make the 7924 a coveted collector's piece.
Over the past years, I have been able to source a few French military diver's watches from the late 1950's that were still in the drawer of retired watchmakers: Rolex, Tudor, Blancpain,...
In these early days of SCUBA diving, most of these watches were used in very small batches (I have recently found out that Omega Seamaster 300's had also been used by the French Navy in very limited quantity) and it is usually admitted that less than two hundred 7924’s have ever been manufactured. Most of them have been used for military purpose (there were not many customers for 200m waterproof watches at that time) but did not bear any special military engraving; the French Navy was probably testing different brands to chose the model that they would order in larger amount and the famous M.N. caseback engraving in fact appeared in the 1970’s only.
Among all these military pieces, my favourite model is definitely the Tudor Big Crown, manufactured by Rolex in 1958 and 1959 only and that has been used by the divers of the Marine Nationale under the references 7922 and 7924. This watch is the exact twin brother of the Rolex James Bond ref. 6538 but with a different dial and movement, like all the early Tudors.
Here’s the picture of a French Navy diver in the early 1960’s with a Tudor Big Crown on the wrist:
The example that I have just dug out is especially interesting, because its serial number in the 292,xxx range is generally associated by collectors to the later civilian batch of 7924's; this is the first time that I see one of these watches in a military context. In addition, the inside caseback of this one is stamped with the reference number, whereas most Tudor Big Crowns only have the date code.
The condition of the watch is simply incredible, with a gorgeous gilt glossy dial and a case that shows normal wear for a 50 years old watch but has never been polished: the thick lugs (aka broad shoulders), flat case sides and sharp edges are intact. This Submariner definitely has a lot of character, as the 38mm diameter is just perfect on the wrist and its 15mm thickness and 8mm crown give him a rugged and bullet proof aspect.
That’s how the edges of the 1950’s Rolex cases look like originally, with a big chamfer:
The bezel also has sharp edges and look at that thick font insert:
The 8mm Brevet crown is one of the sexiest feature of the watch, it looks really huge:
The famous rose logo, it brings a lot of charm and character to the gilt dial:
Another detail of the dial, the 6 o’clock index:
As a friend of mine has some records of the watches used by the French Navy, I will try to make some research about this specific one….unfortunately, the chances to have information about these very early watches are very thin...
This message has been edited by DrStrong on 2009-08-12 04:23:00 This message has been edited by DrStrong on 2009-08-20 06:50:24 About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538
The Submariner reference 6538 is recognized for its prominent crown and lack of crown guards, a characteristic shared with early Submariner iterations. This reference represents a significant period in the development of the Submariner line, preceding later designs that incorporated more protective features for the winding crown. It is often distinguished by its larger crown compared to other early Submariner models, contributing to its distinct visual profile within the collection.
This particular reference features a stainless steel case measuring 37 mm in diameter, housing an automatic movement, the caliber 1030. The watch is fitted with an acrylic crystal and offers a water resistance rating of 200 meters. The power reserve for the caliber 1030 is approximately 42 hours. The dial is black, and the watch is equipped with a rotating unidirectional aluminum bezel.
For collectors, the reference 6538 is notable for its early production characteristics and its place in the evolution of the Submariner. Its specific design elements, such as the 'big crown' and absence of crown guards, make it a point of interest for those studying the progression of the model. Variants within this reference may include different dial texts or bezel insert types, which are often points of detailed examination for enthusiasts.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 1030
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 37 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5510
The Submariner reference 5510 is a notable example within the early production of the model line, distinguished by its "Big Crown" design. This reference was produced for a very short period, making it one of the rarer variants. It represents a transitional phase in the Submariner's development, bridging earlier designs with later, more standardized configurations. Its aesthetic aligns with the functional tool watch philosophy prevalent at the time of its introduction.
The case of the reference 5510 is constructed from stainless steel, featuring a diameter characteristic of its era. It houses an automatic movement, specifically the Caliber 1530, which provides reliable timekeeping. The crystal protecting the dial is made of acrylic, a common material for watches of this period, contributing to its period-correct appearance. The water resistance rating was a significant feature for the model at its release.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in the foundational period of the Submariner. Its limited production run and specific design elements, particularly the oversized winding crown, contribute to its desirability. The 5510 is considered a key reference for understanding the evolution of the Submariner series, showcasing the design language and technical specifications that preceded subsequent iterations.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 1530
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 7924
The Submariner reference 7924 is a notable early iteration of the model, recognized for its specific design elements that differentiate it from other references within the Submariner lineage. It represents a particular period in the model's development, characterized by a focus on robust construction and legibility. This reference is often sought by collectors interested in the evolution of the Submariner series and its foundational designs. Its production run was relatively brief, contributing to its distinct position.
This reference typically features a stainless steel case, often distinguished by its larger crown compared to some contemporary models. The movement housed within is an automatic caliber, designed for reliability and consistent timekeeping. The crystal protecting the dial is generally acrylic, consistent with watches of its era, offering a warm aesthetic and shatter resistance. The case dimensions are characteristic of early sport watches, providing a substantial presence on the wrist.
For collectors, the 7924 holds significance as a transitional reference, bridging earlier designs with later, more standardized Submariner aesthetics. Its specific crown size and dial configurations are points of interest, allowing for detailed study of production variations. The appeal lies in its historical context and the opportunity to acquire a piece from a formative period of the Submariner's development, appealing to those who value originality and historical accuracy in their collections.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 390
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Tudor Submariner Ref. 7922
The Tudor Submariner reference 7922 represents an early iteration of the brand's dive watch, distinguished by its lack of crown guards and a prominent "Big Crown" design. This reference was part of the initial offerings that established Tudor's presence in the professional dive watch segment, sharing design cues with its Rolex counterparts while being positioned as a more accessible alternative. It predates the later, more widely recognized "Snowflake" dial variants, offering a distinct aesthetic that appeals to collectors interested in the foundational models of the Tudor Submariner line.
This reference typically features a stainless steel case, housing an automatic movement. The case design emphasizes functionality, with a rotating bezel for dive timing. The crystal is characteristic of dive watches from its era, designed for durability and legibility underwater. The movement provides reliable timekeeping, contributing to the watch's utility as a tool watch.
For collectors, the 7922 is significant as one of the earliest Tudor Submariners, particularly noted for its non-crown guard case and large winding crown. Its historical context within the development of Tudor's dive watches makes it a key reference for understanding the evolution of the model line. Variants within this reference may include minor dial or hand differences, which are often points of interest for dedicated enthusiasts.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 390
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 37 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Plexiglass
About the Omega Seamaster Ref. 007Edition
The Omega Seamaster 007 Edition, reference 210.92.42.20.01.001, distinguishes itself within the Seamaster Diver 300M collection through its specific aesthetic and material choices. This particular reference offers a distinct interpretation of the Seamaster Diver 300M, setting it apart from standard production models with its unique dial and bezel execution, and the use of lightweight titanium for both the case and bracelet. It represents a focused design within the broader Seamaster lineage.
This edition features a 42mm case crafted from grade 2 titanium, paired with a domed sapphire crystal that enhances its vintage-inspired appearance. The watch is powered by the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806, an automatic movement certified to meet the industry's highest standards of precision, chronometric performance, and magnetic resistance. It offers a power reserve of 55 hours and is water-resistant to 300 meters.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a Seamaster Diver 300M with a specific material and color palette. Its cohesive design, from the tropical brown dial to the titanium mesh bracelet, creates a unified presentation. The absence of a date complication further contributes to its clean and symmetrical dial layout, a detail often appreciated by enthusiasts.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Omega 8806
- Case
- Titanium
- Diameter
- 42mm
- Dial
- Tropical brown
- Water Resist.
- 300m
- Crystal
- Domed sapphire
