Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Design Debate

MichaelC · 2021-04-24T13:22:30Z

MichaelC debates Ulysse Nardin s design direction, specifically the Diver X Skeleton. Collectors discuss brand identity, legibility, and market strategy.

MichaelC

WPS member · Ulysse Nardin forum

51 replies12532 views1 photos

MichaelC critically examines Ulysse Nardin's recent design direction, particularly the pervasive 'X' motif and the new Diver X Skeleton. His post, born from two decades of brand interest, questions the legibility and marketing of contemporary UN pieces, sparking a robust debate among collectors about the brand's future.

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My interest in this brand started in 2000. I own a few pieces, and enjoy seeing countless others I do not. I have always felt the brand's ingenuity and technical prowess are second to none.

But these past few years, the ship is sinking for me. The undying commitment to using an X or rectangle on most every watch they make now, I feel it is a huge mistake.

This new "Diver X Skeleton" (photo credit to Ulysse Nardin website).... where to begin. I'll admit at first glance there is excitement and intrigue. But after that second passes, what are we left with? A confusing mess of elements that have nothing to do with a dive watch. I accept most people who buy haute horlogerie dive watches won't actually take them below water, but some of us absolutely do. If you are going to call a piece a "dive watch", should it not be very legible? I look at this piece and struggle to think of other watches that are so hard to read. The relationship of the minute hand to the bezel is rather important for a dive watch, I see the lume but when that is over any of the 4 X areas, forget it.

I have felt for some time this brand needs a new head designer. Maybe they don't even have one now, I really don't know. I also feel they need a new marketing direction. "...Diver X Skeleton is an explosive fusion between the sporty design of a Diver and technical prowess of the Executive Skeleton. It's a match that was written in the stars." WHAT? Are you really serious?

As a designer, I try to never criticize other peoples work. But given where this brand is now - the lowest I have seen them in 21 years - I can really imagine them going out of business.

Key Points from the Discussion

The author argues that Ulysse Nardin has lost its way, particularly with the 'X' motif, which he believes makes watches like the Diver X Skeleton illegible and a confusing mess of elements for a dive watch.
Many collectors agree that Ulysse Nardin has lost its focus since the unexpected death of Rolf Schnyder, who, in collaboration with Ludwig Oechslin, revitalized the brand with incredibly complicated pieces.
The 'X' theme is criticized as over the top, hindering legibility, and the brand's marketing is seen as sensationalistic and disconnected from its heritage.
A contributor suggested that Ulysse Nardin is attempting to reposition itself in the market by offering watches at a more mid-tier price range while maintaining creativity, though the long-term success of this strategy is uncertain.
The brand's current releases, including a chiming watch, desk clocks, and unreadable dive watches, are seen as targeting a very small customer base, raising concerns about the CEO's tenure.
The 'Diver X Skeleton' is labeled a 'fashion watch' for those who prioritize aesthetics over functional diving utility, indicating a shift in target audience.

The Discussion

MiguelFlash

Apr 24, 2021

I see your point

It seems there are venturing away from what They used to be, which for me was, haute horolgy with a nod to classic time pieces. Now their watches look like cookie cutter “futuristic” designs like Roger Dubois and others. They are losing their brand DNA imho

MichaelC

Apr 24, 2021

I like when brands are daring and try new things.

But to your point, that seems to be the essence of the brand now. UN's identity has disappeared. I don't know what it is anymore.

als1678

Apr 24, 2021

Absolutely agree - putting a giant X on the dial does not create brand identity!

UN has the knowhow to do anything, but the vision of the current management seems to be more suited for a mid range fashion brand. Maybe it works for some markets?!

MichaelC

Apr 25, 2021

Well said. Thanks for your reply.

Esharp

Apr 24, 2021

Unfortunately...

...for some time now I have wondered the same thing. Some great technical stuff. Some really cool watches. And then a recent twist into trying to be a (cut-price) Roger Dubuis. Who calls a watch ‘executive’? Terrible name! And that square thing...and the X...design features that have no justification or use. I just don’t get it. Best E.

Marc Obermann

Apr 24, 2021

I understand what many of you are saying

I was watching Watches and Whisky with Roman Sharf and they were discussing all the new releases and he was talking about just how UN is repositioning itself in the market place. They are doing this in his opinion by making their watches at a more mid tier price range whilst still trying to be creative. They are indeed not short of technical prowess IMO and it may be at little early to see just how this will all play out but they have in the past created some both beautiful and technically outst