Foversta shares his excitement about acquiring the Urwerk UR-103.08 TiALN, a significant addition to his collection and a testament to Urwerk's consistent and innovative approach to wandering hour displays. He delves into the brand's philosophy of combining reliable base calibers with Felix Baumgartner's complex display modules, all encased in Martin Frei's timeless designs.
Urwerk is one of my favorite independent brands. I have always liked the consistency of Urwerk that has permanently emained faithful to its original approach based on the reinterpretation of the classic (existing from the XVIIth Century) and alternative wandering hour display in an innovative and timeless aesthetic context. While Urwerk proposed other types of display (including a conventional one with the EMC), it is the wandering hour display, either with satellites or hands that seduced me the most and since then I have had only one desire: to complete my collection with one Urwerk watch.
The slim profile of the case:
Beyond its coherence, Urwerk also has a very reassuring dimension. The movements are usually built on the same principle: a well-known basic caliber, reliable and which can be easily fixed (Peseux 7001, GP 3300, Zenith Elite etc ...) powers the display module developed by Felix Baumgartner. And the great talent of the Urwerk master watchmaker is to make complicated things... simple. I had the chance to wear over several months two UR-202, an UR-210, an UR-105 T-Rex ... and each piece behaved impeccably. It must be said that the display evokes a sense of tranquility and serenity, as constantly operating at the same speed and smoothly ... if I put aside the retrograde hand of the UR-210. The other dimension ensuring the sustainability of Urwerk watches is the timeless design that is the fruit of the drawing skills perfectly mastered by Martin Frei.
The bevelled ends of the glass:
So obviously, I will not explain that an Urwerk watch is quiet and classic like a Calatrava. It creates strong emotions, feelings of seduction or rejection. But if you appreciate this unique style in the service of the time display and the user's comfort, if you enter the world of Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, then you realize that this bold character becomes much more sober. That is the conclusion I can draw: an Urwerk watch doesn't age when many original watches become very quickly old-fashioned.
The dashboard allows a precise time setting:
A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to acquire one of my favorite watches: the UR-103.08. It was auctioned as part of the sale of the Laurent Picciotto's collection organized by Phillips in Hong Kong. And thanks to Phillips software, I was able to quietly follow from Paris the auction in order to place a bid. Quietly, that's a big word because I was waiting with a lot of anxiety the lot that interested me. There were other watches on my radar screen but I knew that the offered prices would go too high for my budget. And then ... I particularly like the UR-103.08.
The UR-103 (the first version was unveiled in 2003), it's a bit the icon from Urwerk and a classic of independent watchmaking. The 103.08 TiALN has several unique features that distinguish it from other versions. Introduced in 2007, it was the first 103 to offer a steel case. But not a mere stainless-steel! It is indeed the subject of a TiALN (Titanium Aluminum Nitride) coating which greatly enhances its hardness and resistance. But not only that because this coating gives to the watch a very special color, a kind of mix between chocolate and eggplant (depending on the lights conditions) which really looks great. The last surprise is related to the shape of the glass with beveled ends which gives a touch of character ... giving the feeling that a Transformer mask is in my wrist.
The dancing and rotating numerals:
The 103.08 TiALN is very easy-going. it is very comfortable on the wrist, it is relatively light and the width of the bracelet provides an excellent support. Its dimensions (50mmx36mmx13,5mm, lugs included) are reasonable and allow the watch to be worn under a shirt sleeve.
The display module is powered by a handwind caliber Peseux 7001 featuring a 3hz frequency and a power reserve of 43 hours. I like a lot to wind it with the thumb through the large crown at the top of the case. The time setting is performed accurately thanks to the dashboard on the back of the watch which gathers a second hand, a 15-minute display and a power reserve indicator. The front side of the watch is dedicated to the wandering hour display.
The luminescence provides a strange show, like a soup of numerals:
This display is intuitive to me (while I have great difficulty to read the time on regulators). The satellite that carries the hours numbers moves from right to left along the scale dedicated to minutes. With practice, you just look at the satellite position, without even worrying about the scale to have a good estimate of the minutes. The four satellites carry 3 digits each. They continuously perform a double-rotation around the central carousel and on themselves.
The 103.08 wrist, its slender style and comfort make it very easy-going :
The Phillips auction therefore gave me the opportunity to acquire the 103.08 exactly 10 years after its release. I liked a lot the context: the watch was part of the Laurent Picciotto's collection and it gave it an additional interest. I had the great surprise to win the bidding on this lot (after a few seconds of stress waiting for Aurel Bacs' hammer...) and to become the owner of this exceptional and rare piece! Indeed, we estimate only at ten pieces those with the glass featuring the beveled ends.
The color of the case enhances its originality:
So the watch makes me doubly happy, thanks to its horological interest and because it symbolizes the friendship I have with Laurent Picciotto and the Urwerk team. The human relationships and the special relations that I developped represent a large part of the main thread of my collection. I am far from investment strategies, I have no crystal ball and I prefer to enjoy the watches whatever are the reasons of the pleasure they give to me. The best way to not be disappointed in the end!
I would like to thank a lot the Phillips and Urwerk teams for the excellent quality of service further to the auction.
Fx
