Vacheron Constantin 49005 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
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Vacheron Constantin 49005 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

By Mark in Paris · Aug 5, 2015 · 21 replies
Mark in Paris
WPS member · Vacheron Constantin forum
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Mark in Paris introduces the Vacheron Constantin reference 49005, a Perpetual Calendar Chronograph from 1992, highlighting its significance as the brand's first iteration of this complication. His post explores the watch's design, movement, and overall appeal, inviting fellow collectors to share their insights and experiences with this notable reference. The discussion provides valuable context for understanding VC's historical approach to complex watchmaking.

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Hi everyone,

I'm quite into Perpetual Calendar Chronograph watches these days.


The VC 49005 from 1992 is the first version of this complication for the brand and is the previous model to the Malte Chronograph Perpetual Calendar (which then led to the current Traditionnelle version). Its
case is 38mm wide and 12mm thick.

The main difference with the 2 last generations is that it was an automatic wound movement, which some may find a handy feature for a Perpetual Calendar as it allows the owner to put it on a winder until the next wearing period.



Crédit: Antiquorum


I understand the movement is based on a 1185 Frederic Piguet movement added to a VC Perpetual Calendar module (thank you Respo for the info): it is the 1136 QP (28 x 7.9 mm, 279 parts, 21,600 vph).


It looks quite simple, especially for a Chronograph movement, as we are used to seeing quite more impressive calibers in that field but, yet, it remains nicely finished (at least on this official picture). Anyway, it is hidden behind a solid caseback.




Credit: Vacheron Constantin website


It was produced in 500 rose gold pieces and less than 300 platinum pieces (figures from The Hour Lounge).



However, what looks amazing and something I often see in VC watches (and appreciate in watchmaking generally speaking) is the gorgeous dial layout. I can't speak about the finishing and material of the dial as I never saw one in the metal but the decoration (golden rings for the subsidiary dials) looks fantastic.


The watch really is elegant and of a rare beauty (I suspect it looks particularly as such especially in this picture).


I didn't find many quality pictures so if you have some to share, or are an owner of such a piece (or any experience with it) I'll be delighted to read you smile


Cheers, Mark



This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-08-06 09:56:24

About the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ref. 49005

The Vacheron Constantin ref. 49005 is a distinguished perpetual calendar chronograph, part of the brand's esteemed complications offerings. This reference represents a period where Vacheron Constantin combined traditional watchmaking with refined aesthetics, appealing to collectors seeking both technical prowess and classical design within a single timepiece.

This reference typically features a case diameter of 38mm, crafted in precious metals such as rose gold or platinum. It houses an automatic movement, often based on a Frédéric Piguet ébauche, enhanced with a perpetual calendar and chronograph module. The dial layout is characterized by its balanced sub-dials for the chronograph and perpetual calendar indications, including day, date, month, leap year, and moon phase.

The ref. 49005 holds relevance for collectors interested in Vacheron Constantin's complicated watches from the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Its combination of a perpetual calendar and chronograph, presented in a classically sized case, makes it a notable example of high horology from the era, appreciated for its intricate mechanics and enduring design.

Specifications

Caliber
Caliber 1136 QP
Case
Rose Gold, Platinum
Diameter
38mm
Dial
Silver, White
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AM
amanico
Aug 5, 2015
Not bad at all, but I much preferred the following one, with its 39 mm case.

And its fantastic moonphase. Without forgetting the malte lugs! Best, Nicolas

MA
Mark in Paris
Aug 5, 2015
Ha, the moonphase

Yes, this is a very big asset of the 2 last generations, even if I think this "simpler" disk, in this particular case, matches quite well with this dial. The 39mm Malte is great too, with much more character but maybe a little less elegant and refined. And its Lemania movement and the romantic Officer's back, that's a hit for sure. Thanks Nicolas. Cheers, Mark

AM
amanico
Aug 5, 2015
Less dressy, yes, still very elegant. But more cool. Hard to put in words.

More character? Best, Nicolas

4J
4Js
Aug 5, 2015
Nice watch and great value for perp chrono

i have no wrist shots. Had a platinum white dial in sights many years ago. There is also a salmon dial platinum issued as well. There are very nice dimensions on this watch. Very wearable. Best Joe

MA
Mark in Paris
Aug 6, 2015
Yes indeed

I'm surprised we don't talk about them more often but I discovered this model not very long ago and it pleases me very much, especially for the price I could see from auctions. Can I ask you what made you not purchase the one you had in mind? I saw some pictures of the salmon dial Pt version but i'm not a salmon dial guy. The rose gold looks gorgeous and is how I personally see a watch like this. Do you think it is possible to wear it frequently (do you know if it is waterproof?)? Thanks for chi

4J
4Js
Aug 7, 2015
Thx Mark

I passed because the Malte perp chrono came up on offer from my dealer. I have only seen it in plat white dial. I can't comment on other colors, but the salmon dial is similar to my 47101 Lemania chrono in platinum, and I love that combo. Again, any combo, based on taste will work IMO The size is elegant. And it will wear easy. I can see it for any occasion. Even for some a daily wearer. As for water, I would pass on that one. I don't know the specs, but it is an older design and I would not do

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