Review
It is not a big surprise. A few months after the presentation of the Chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in platinum that I described in this article , Vacheron Constantin unveiled a pink gold version. I will not describe with details this watch since it has basically the same features than
It is not a big surprise. A few months after the presentation of the Chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in platinum that I described in this article, Vacheron Constantin unveiled a pink gold version. I will not describe with details this watch since it has basically the same features than the platinum version: only the case, indexes and hands material or color change. But I take the opportunity of the ability I had to handle it a few days ago to display some pictures taken at the boutique of the Rue de la Paix in Paris.
I briefly remind you that this chronograph, inspired by a historic piece of Vacheron Constantin (the reference 6087), has a case diameter of 38,5mm that highlights the famous long lugs whose shape gives its name to the watch (Cornes de Vache means cow horns in French). The chronograph offers a presence on the wrist which is much larger than its case diameter may suggest. It is also the proof of a paradox. Despite its "vintage" design clearly inspired by the past and the particular shape of the lugs, it seems very original in the current watchmaking world.
An important feature of the chronograph is the use of the movement 1142 which is an evolution of the traditional 1141 based on the Lemania 2310. The finish of the movement 1142 is above the usual standards of the 1141 but the main difference comes from the technical side since the frequency was increased from 2.5 to 3hz. The power reserve remains at 48 hours and since the movement has a similar size to the 1141 one, this frequency increase is mainly based on the reduction of the balance wheel diameter (which is free-sprung in the context of the 1142).
The main question is to guess what is the most attractive version. I must confess I have some difficulties to answer this question. The pink gold version enhances the traditional design of the chronograph and becomes undoubtedly warmer and more refined. The contrast between the case and the dial underlines more clearly the shape of the lugs. The platinum version is more sober and seems more contemporary.
The price difference between the two watches is therefore significant since the rose gold version is sold in France at the price of 57,600 euros VAT included while the price tag of the platinum one reaches 74,400 euros. A difference of nearly 30% for me that tipped the balance toward the gold watch which is just as attractive as its platinum sister but for different reasons. By putting it on the wrist, the charm and refinement hit the target and even though I feel that it is less versatile due to the color of its case, it remains quite suitable to a more casual context thanks to its complication, the pushers and the dial lay-out.
Anyway, either in platinum or in pink gold, the Chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is one of the finest handwind chronographs of the haute horlogerie segment. Its movement is perhaps not as spectacular than the Datograph one and its performances are below compared to those of more recent calibers (power reserve and not a jumping minute counter). But who cares in the end? Once on the wrist, the beauty and the power of seduction of this chronograph make it irresistible.
Thanks to the team of the Vacheron Constantin boutique of the rue de la Paix in Paris.
Fr.Xavier
The Vacheron Constantin Phidias reference 6087 represents the brand's approach to classic dress watch design within the Phidias series. This reference features a white dial configuration that provides clear contrast against the precious metal case construction.
The watch houses an automatic movement within a 33mm case crafted from 18k yellow gold. The white dial is protected by sapphire crystal, and the timepiece offers 30 meters of water resistance. The fixed bezel maintains clean lines consistent with traditional dress watch proportions.
Reference 6087 appeals to collectors seeking a precious metal dress watch from Vacheron Constantin's catalog. The 33mm case size reflects period-appropriate sizing for formal timepieces, while the yellow gold construction and white dial combination offers a classic aesthetic. This reference suits those prioritizing traditional materials and understated dial presentation within the Phidias collection.
it has got the same diameter as Patek's 5170 and the shares the same thinness but while the 5170 looks a it "bloated" due to Patek's effort to make the 5170 look bigger or more elegant with the (overly) slim bezel, this VC CdV is by far more balanced looking! It looks like a "beefier" watch than it is, a nice solid and elegant watch, not as fragile looking like the 5170. The movement might not be the strong point on the first look but if you think about the merits of it then it is a very nice on
I do think the bezel and lug proportions of the VC are much better than on the 5170 The 5170 remains a very nice watch, through, with a more modern, upgraded movement. The plain baton hands need to change, however.
It will be a matter of taste and budget. With a 30% more important ticket, the platinum is madly priced. While the rose gold is in the ( high ) average budget. You are right, the rose gold is more retro looking, while the platinum is more " polyvalent ". Both are nice. I have a strong preference for the platinum, but at that price... The big disappointment comes from the fact that it is not an in house movement, which could have justified the price, but an evolution of the former Lemania with so
the price is more reasonable and accessible and the look is a lot warmer and retains some of the vintage charm of the predecessor. Thanks for the fantastic photos and review Fx! Cheers Robin
anyway: VC version of this Lemania base is certainly collectible
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