Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Chronographs

WHL · 2012-03-27T20:02:37Z

Explore Vacheron Constantin's Perpetual Calendar Chronographs, from vintage designs to modern Malte and Patrimony Traditionnelle references.

WHL

WPS member · Vacheron Constantin forum

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WHL's comprehensive overview of Vacheron Constantin's Perpetual Calendar Chronographs traces the brand's journey in this complex complication, comparing it to other 'Big Three' watchmakers. The article highlights key models from the Malte and Patrimony Traditionnelle collections, offering insights into their design evolution, movement, and case dimensions. This piece serves as an excellent reference for understanding VC's contributions to high horology.

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Vacheron Constantin has long been considered one of the “Big Three” watchmakers along with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Each brand has been expertly creating timepieces of the highest order for over a century. When I collected vintage watches my tastes in horological appreciation have always been most sated by the models of Vacheron Constantin, which, more so than with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, have a flair for the bold, especially in regards to case, lug, and dial design

When it comes to the chronographs I would always choose a Vacheron Constantin 4178 with its tear drop lugs and square button pushers, or the ultra-rare 6087, with its “cornes de vache” lugs, round button pushers, and screwed-down case back over any of the fine designs from the other Big Three watchmakers.

And even when it comes to the calendar watches, I too preferred the designs from Vacheron Constantin (References 4461 and 4240) over the legendary Patek Philippe 3448 and 3450, though I wished that Vacheron Constantin had competed more directly by making a perpetual calendar complication.

There is one complication combination on the vintage side, however, that Patek Philippe has all to itself, the perpetual calendar chronograph. Though extremely rare, models such as the 1518 and 2499 are beautiful, useful, legible, and desirable. I only wished that Vacheron Constantin made them starting in the 1940’s as well.

It wouldn’t be until 2000 that Vacheron Constantin would produce a true competitor with manual winding chronograph and perpetual calendar, but it would be worth the wait! One of the two crown jewels of the new Malte collection, the other being the Malte Tourbillon, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph represented a triumph of design

The movement is Vacheron Constantin’s workhorse manual winding caliber 1141, based on a Lemania ebauche that also powered the Historiques Chronograph, to which Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers added their own calendar module

The case is 39 mm in diameter, and pleasantly chunky at 14 mm thick and was available in either in 3N yellow gold or platinum. A hinged case back offered the owners a wonderful opportunity for a custom engraving and the chance the view the finely finished movement.

In 2007, the Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph was updated for a limited run as part of the Excellence Platine collection. The case expanded to 42 mm and the platinum dial was give a sand blasted Finnish. The movement is the same calibre 1141 QP as in the predecessor.

the watch is thinner than the original, and does away with the hinged case back cover.

There were only fifty made.

The focus of Vacheron Constantin at SIHH 2009 was the extension of the Patrimony Traditionnelle line, originally introduced in 2007, with new complications, and among them was a perpetual calendar chronograph, now in a 43 mm case:

True to the times, the yellow gold of the original Malte design has given way to the rose gold case preferred by today’s watch buyers.

Finally, in 2011, the platinum cased watch has been offered with a ruthenium finished dial that distinguishes Vacheron Constantin’s platinum watches from its white gold cousins.

The next step that we collectors anticipate will be the introduction of an entirely in-house chronograph movement with the addition of the perpetual calendar.

Bill Lind
VC Forum Moderator

About the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ref. 4240

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas reference 4240 represents the brand's sports watch offering in a 42mm case configuration. This reference features a blue dial treatment within the Overseas series lineup.

The watch houses an automatic movement within a stainless steel case measuring 42mm in diameter. A sapphire crystal protects the blue dial, while the fixed bezel provides a streamlined profile. Water resistance extends to 150 meters, supporting everyday wear scenarios.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking a contemporary sports watch from Vacheron Constantin in stainless steel. The 42mm case size and blue dial combination positions this piece within the accessible segment of the Overseas range, offering the series' design language in a steel construction with automatic movement functionality.

Specifications

Caliber: 1226

Case: Stainless steel

Diameter: 42 mm

Dial: Blue

Water Resist.: 150m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

Vacheron Constantin's vintage chronographs, such as the Ref. 4178 with teardrop lugs and Ref. 6087 with 'cornes de vache' lugs, are highly regarded for their bold case, lug, and dial designs, often preferred over those from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet.
The original Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (39mm, 14mm thick) is favored for its dial balance and the enjoyment derived from its hinged caseback, despite its thickness.
The Caliber 1141, based on a Lemania ebauche with an added VC calendar module, powered the early Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronographs.
The 2007 Excellence Platine limited edition (Ref. 47212) expanded to a 42mm case, featured a sandblasted platinum dial, and was thinner due to the removal of the hinged caseback.
There is anticipation for Vacheron Constantin's in-house chronograph movement, with hopes it will allow for balanced dial layouts reminiscent of earlier perpetual calendar chronographs.
The moonphase display on the Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is considered by some to be among the best across all watch brands.

The Discussion

amanico

Mar 27, 2012

Thanks for this very interesting comparative post, Bill.

The first and the second perpetual ccalendar chrono from VC made me dream for a long, very long time. These are watches with character and elegance. Maybe they were late in producing such a combination of complications, but theey did well with their two first PC Chrono. I will come back later on this topic, as I prepared a post dedicated to it. Just have to find it in my mess. Best, Nicolas

eelstub

Mar 28, 2012

Great post Bill. IMHO the 39mm worked best in terms of...

...dial layout but don't suppose there is much chance of a return to that case size Ed

justindependent

Mar 28, 2012

Wonderful Wonderful piece of mechanical art

I agree with eelstub, that I much prefer the first version in 39mm where I prefer the balance of the dial. I think I can live with the thickness having tried it before without the means to buy it at the time. I would find great enjoyment in having the open up the half hunter case back to see the movement as I do with my PP5059. Its a great feeling. If I can live the with balance of case width and height on that I can certainly love the first Malte Perp Chrono! This has without peers the best moo

a.ler

Mar 28, 2012

vintage appeal in VC is what draws me to this brand...

i certainly hope , the new chronograph caliber , without the limitation of lemania's size, can have the balanced dial layout of the first perpetual chronograph you have shown . and hopefully and wishfully, draws inspiration from the designs of their heritage pieces. that will be my grail and i will porbably sell a few pieces of my collection to fund it. bill, thank you of the reminder that a chronograph movement is on its way and a good article.

respo

Mar 28, 2012

Lovely

What could be better than spending some time with these VC perpetual chronographs? I did not realize that the original Malte Perpetual Chronograph was 39mm. I, too, would like to see a return to that size. 14mm does seem a bit chunky for a 39mm watch, but was the reduction in thickness (to what size, by the way?) for the 47212 due completely to the lack of the hunter hinged case back cover, or was the watch put on a diet for other reasons? I think many of us are waiting to see what an in-house c

hewitgar

Mar 29, 2012

here's that sandblasted platinum dial....

I like each version, but settled on this one. Gary