WHL's comprehensive report from SIHH 2012 provides an essential overview of Vacheron Constantin's novelties, with a particular focus on the updated Malte collection and high complications. This article offers a valuable historical snapshot of the brand's offerings, detailing key aesthetic and technical developments, including the expansion of the Geneva Hallmark to certify entire watches.
We’ve all probably seen the press releases about the novelties from Vacheron Constantin by now. The focus has been on the update to the Malte collection, celebrating the 100th anniversary of the tonneau form in Vacheron Constantin’s history, with the introduction of four new models in the third generation of the Malte design since 2000. That year, Vacheron Constantin introduced its first in-house movement with the caliber 1790. This movement featured a tourbillon as well as pointer date and power reserve. This new model keeps it simple with just a tourbillon. It is gorgeous:
The sapphire crystal case back allows for a view of the movement. Unlike the previous generation of Malte Tourbillon, this one has earned the Geneva Hallmark, which now certifies the entire watch for quality in terms of finish, water resistance, and timekeeping.
The core watch in the collection is the Malte Small Seconds, employing the manual winding caliber 4400:
Vacheron Constantin is using a solid case back on models in which the movement is round. While it hides the movements that are such a large component of the value of these watches, it is the correct choice aesthetically.
For the 100th anniversary of the Tonneau at Vacheron Constantin there is a limited edition Malte in a platinum case. One hundred time pieces, naturally. This watch has a cool elegance that is very attractive, and the case has a lot of mass.
There is also a diamond set ladies model with a quartz movement (not photographed).
The Patrimony Traditionnelle Tourbillon was announced before SIHH, and it is always an experience to see such high-end watches in person. This one does not disappoint! The proportions are excellent, and the extended power reserve of two weeks is due to four mainspring barrels.
When it comes to the high complications, Vacheron Constantin steps up the level of finishing to an even higher standard than its already lofty excellence.
No watch house creates artistic pieces quite like Vacheron Constantin, and this year’s entries into the Metiers d’Art collection, the three watches of Les Univers Infinis collection, are visually arresting, employing tessellated patterns inspired by artist M.C. Escher. The Dove features the all the skills found in the Metiers d’Art atelier: engraving, champleve enamelling, guilloche, and gemsetting:
The Fish features guilloche and cloisonne enamelling:
The Shells features engraving and champleve enamelling:
Not given major press releases were variations on watches already in production. If 2011 was the year of boutique-only Overseas Perpetual Calendar Chronographs, then 2012 gives the rest of the Vacheron Constantin's retail network world an opportunity:
This watch is in rose gold and the smoky silver dial is beautiful, taking its color palette from the unique Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 for the NY Boutique.
Also, blue is the newest color for dial on the Overseas Chronograph, in both stainless steel on the bracelet and in rose gold:
Unlike the blue in the Greek Overseas Chronograph, this model has a non-textured, uniform colored dial. Be sure to get the blue croc and blue rubber straps from the Greek edition as accessories if you choose thison for your collection!
I would like to see this blue brought down to the Overseas Automatic as well.
Concluding Thoughts2011 was a tremendous year for technical novelties from Vacheron Constantin, with the introduction of two important new complications with the Quai de l’Ile Annual Calendar and the Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time. These two models have been trickling out slower than either the brand or collectors would like, and I think it best that Vacheron Constantin has kept it technically simple in 2012 so that they can ramp up production of the 2011 watches as well as easily deliver on the 2012 novelties.
While I have never been a big fan of tonneau cased watches, I like the new Malte line. The designers have toned down the busyness that has always characterized the line, whether in terms of case or dial design, and the Malte collection now has a relaxed and elegant feel more in line with the spirit of the Patrimony Contemporaine collection.
There are going to be a few other watches presented in 2012, with additions to the Historiques and Patrimony Tradtionnelle collections, so stay tuned throughout the year to read about them when they are released!
Bill
VC Forum Moderator
Please don’t hesitate to send me a PM if you have any questions or comments about the 2012 novelties from Vacheron Constantin.
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2012-01-25 11:02:25 This message has been edited by WHL on 2012-02-18 21:42:47 
