Vintage Gem-Set Watches: Duo Collection
Vintage

Vintage Gem-Set Watches: Duo Collection

By quattro · Oct 1, 2025 · 26 replies
quattro
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
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Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, presents a compelling comparison of two modern watches deeply rooted in their brands' heritage. He meticulously details the historical inspirations behind the Patek Philippe Ref. 5098P-001 and the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955, offering a valuable look into how past designs inform contemporary horology. His post serves as an excellent reference for collectors interested in the lineage of iconic timepieces.

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These two watches are inspired by the past.



The Patek Philippe Ref. 5098P-001, powered by Caliber 25-21 REC and launched in 2007, is inspired by a Chronometro Gondolo with a movement from 1913 cased circa 1920, which is exhibited at the Patek Philippe Museum.









The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 Ref. 5000H/000R-B059, powered by Caliber 1142 and launched in 2015 in platinum and in 2016 in rose gold, is inspired by a 1955 Roman numerals variant of the Ref. 6087, the brand's first water-resistant chronograph, thanks to the screw-down caseback and to the seals fitted to the round double pushers. It was also anti-magnetic.






credit: perezcope


Have a nice day!

Best, Emmanuel

About the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Ref. CornesdeVache1955

The Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is a chronograph model that draws inspiration from a specific Vacheron Constantin chronograph reference from the mid-20th century. It is part of the Historiques collection, which reinterprets significant designs from the brand's heritage. This particular model is notable for its distinctive "cow horn" lugs, a design element that gives the watch its name and sets it apart from more conventional chronograph cases.

The case of the Cornes de Vache 1955 is crafted from precious metal, typically rose gold, and features the characteristic sculpted lugs. It houses a manually wound chronograph movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The dial layout is a classic bi-compax chronograph configuration, with a tachymeter scale around the periphery. The crystal protecting the dial is sapphire, often with an anti-reflective coating.

This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate vintage-inspired designs and the craftsmanship of traditional watchmaking. Its faithful recreation of a historical Vacheron Constantin chronograph, combined with modern manufacturing standards, makes it a sought-after piece. The Cornes de Vache 1955 is offered in various precious metal iterations, each maintaining the core design elements that define this distinctive model within the Historiques collection.

Specifications

Caliber
Caliber 1142
Case
18k 5N Pink Gold
Diameter
38.5 mm
Dial
Opaline Silver
Water Resist.
30 meters
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
MA
Marc Obermann
Oct 1, 2025

They both have a very strong vintage to them and yet are so different to each other. I hope you continue to enjoy both of them in good health. Marc

BR
bruckner4
Oct 1, 2025

And strapped up beautifully.

XT
xto
Oct 1, 2025

I have the PP calibre as 25 21 / 176 T - do you recognize it by that name or is that something I should correct, do you know?

QU
quattro
Oct 1, 2025

and, cherry on top, one can contemplate two very beautiful Geneva Seal calibers... Best, Emmanuel

QU
quattro
Oct 1, 2025

The movement is sometimes referenced online as you have it, but I've never seen a Certificate of origin with this "176 T". For example, on this page ( https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/fine-watches-13/reference-5098-chronometro-gondolo-a-platinum ), Sotheby's writes 25-21/176, but the CoO says 25-21 REC "AIG.2" (which means 2 AIGUILLES=2 HANDS). And on the official lithography, the movement is called 25-21 REC... Best, Emmanuel

CH
Champthekid
Oct 1, 2025

I’d be happy to own each one for sure.

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