Watch Lugs: Bullet and Ogival Guide

Key Points from the Discussion

• The 'Obus' line, particularly the Cartier Tank Obus, holds a special appeal for many collectors, with some preferring neo-vintage and modern iterations over true vintage pieces.
• De Bethune watches, especially those featuring ogival lugs like the DB15 and DB25, are often described as far more impressive in person than in photographs, highlighting the importance of experiencing these timepieces firsthand.
• The movement of the De Bethune DB1, stamped C.D.B, was originally created by Denis Flageollet, FP Journe, and Vianney Halter for THA, and was also shared with Cartier (Caliber 2396C) and Ulysse Nardin before THA's acquisition by Bucherer.
• Some collectors actively seek specific configurations of watches with ogival lugs, such as a white gold Cartier Tank Obus, noting their rarity in the market.
• For certain collectors, the ogival lug design is a primary motivation for acquiring a specific watch, even if the model isn't the most 'spectacular' from a brand like De Bethune.
• The aesthetic appeal of ogival lugs, much like fashion trends such as the 'Bullet Bra' of the 1950s, reflects the cyclical nature of design preferences and how they reshape perceptions.