Watch Movements: Major Brands & Common Calibers
Reference Guide

Watch Movements: Major Brands & Common Calibers

By Bill · Nov 22, 2024 · 17 replies
Bill
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
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Bill's comprehensive table on major watch brands and their movement sources offers an invaluable resource for collectors. This foundational post, originally shared in 2024, continues to spark vital discussions about horological independence, shared calibers, and the nuanced relationships between manufacturers and their suppliers. His work provides a crucial starting point for understanding the intricate ecosystem of watch movement production.

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Errors mentions, notes and additions welcome.



Brand Company Movement Source
Audemars PiguetAudemars PiguetAudemars Piguet, Vaucher
Baume & MercierRichemontETA
BlancpainSwatchBlancpain, ETA, Frederic Piguet
BreguetSwatchBreguet, Frederic Piguet, ETA
BreitlingBreitlingETA, Valjoux, Breitling Manufacture (B01)
BulgariLVMHBulgari, La Fabrique du Temps
CartierRichemontCartier, JLC, Piaget, ETA, Valfleurier
CasioCasioCasio
CitizenCitizenMiyota
Girard-PerregauxKeringGirard-Perregaux
Glashütte OriginalSwatchGlashütte Original, ETA
Grand SeikoEpsonSuwa/Epson (Spring Drive, Hi-Beat)
HamiltonSwatchETA
HublotLVMHETA, Zenith, Hublot Manufacture
IWCRichemontIWC, ETA, Valjoux
Jaeger-LeCoultreRichemontJLC
JeanRichardKeringGirard-Perregaux
Lange & SöhneRichemontLange Manufacture
LonginesSwatchETA
MontblancRichemontMontblanc, ETA, Minerva
OmegaSwatchETA, Omega Manufacture
OrientSeikoOrient
Orient StarSeikoOrient
PaneraiRichemontPanerai, ETA, ValFleurier
Patek PhilippePatek PhilippePatek Philippe Manufacture
PiagetRichemontPiaget, ETA
RolexRolexRolex
Royal OrientSeikoOrient
SeikoSeikoSeiko
SwatchSwatchETA
TAG HeuerLVMHTAG Heuer, ETA
TissotSwatchETA
Ulysse NardinKering (formerly)Ulysse Nardin, ETA, Le Locle, Lamania
Vacheron ConstantinRichemontVacheron Constantin, JLC, ETA, ValFleurier , Lamania
ZenithLVMHZenith Manufacture

Notes & Adjustments:

  1. Bulgari: Bulgari increasingly uses in-house movements from La Fabrique du Temps.
  2. Blancpain/Breguet: Many Blancpain and Breguet movements are derived from Frederic Piguet calibers, though ETA may also appear in entry-level models.
  3. Girard-Perregaux/JeanRichard: Both utilize movements from GP Manufacture. Kering sold Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin in 2022, making their ownership less clear now.
  4. IWC: Uses a mix of in-house calibers (e.g., 52000 series) and ETA/Valjoux in lower-tier models.
  5. Montblanc: Incorporates Minerva movements for high-end collections, ETA for entry-level.
  6. Panerai: ValFleurier, a Richemont-owned facility, produces many of their movements.
  7. Ulysse Nardin: Historically relied on ETA but now heavily uses in-house movements and silicium technology.
  8. Vacheron Constantin: Uses a mix of JLC, in-house, and ETA movements in some older models.
  9. Zenith: Primarily relies on its own movements, including the iconic El Primero.

Member Updates
Vacheron Constantin -Traditionnelle PPC w/ chrono - Lamania. Cornes de vache - Lamania
Breguet classic chrono - Lamania/Swatch, maybe discontinued
Cartier doesn't make movements, they use Valfleurier movements 
Ulysse Nardin relied on Lemania... And maybe ETA
AP uses Vaucher and VC use ValFleurier movements


BrandParent CompanyMovement Source
BalticIndependentMiyota, Sellita
Christopher WardIndependentSellita, ETA, SH21 (In-house)
FarerIndependentETA, Sellita
HorageIndependentK1 (In-house)
Kurono TokyoIndependentMiyota
MingIndependentSellita, Schwarz-Etienne
Moser & CieIndependentH. Moser Manufacture
NorqainIndependentKenissi, ETA
Oak & OscarIndependentETA, Sellita
RessenceIndependentETA base with ROCS system
TudorRolexKenissi, ETA (historical)





Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
JO
John-E-Mac
Nov 22, 2024

It was the main reason I purchased my 177 in 2008. It had the same robust construction as my Colibri pocket watch from 1979. The Patek 5070 series was strong because of its core movement. Richemont or Swatch should leverage their movements across brands.

JM
jml_watches
Nov 22, 2024

This one As wanted an alarm with an AS5008 movement. Think that's probably more to do with my obsession with alarms rather than anything else. I'm fairly relaxed otherwise - I just need to like watch & think that it offers fair value (however you do that!) and be able to afford it. Cheers JML

AN
AndCavanaugh
Nov 22, 2024

IWC and Baume's "in-house" movements are also mainly Valfleurier movements.

EN
enjoythemusic
Nov 22, 2024

Of course asking $35k (in 2024 Dollars / Euro) for a stainless steel timepiece means it had better have lots of reasons to be that expensive. This is where smart and educated consumers know what to avoid (hype).

BL
Blansky
Nov 22, 2024

I can appreciate pretty beautifully crafted movements as much as the next guy, but for the most part it;s the dial/case/hands combination that I care about. The move to in house movements was also designed to make you send in the watch for in house expensive service as well. And are those pretty movements as rugged as the less impressive Rolex plain Jane movements? my 2 cents.

WI
winther502
Nov 22, 2024

I'm really not happy with very expensive, so called luxury watches, being equiped with base 100$ movements. Almost fraudulent in my book. I would be more OK if those watches were being marketed as fasion excessories, but more often then not, sellers claim high quality, bogus heritige and fine horology. Not cool ! Watches not having in-house movements is an old and fine practice, witch in it self is OK by me. Once noticed a lengthy review in Hodinkee of a expensive sportswatch from a prominent br

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