Ultra-Thin Calibers Comparison
Complications

Ultra-Thin Calibers Comparison

By quattro · Oct 10, 2024 · 59 replies
quattro
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
59 replies13182 views26 photos
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In this insightful article, quattro spotlights two horological marvels: the Vacheron Constantin caliber 1003 and the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 849. He meticulously showcases their exquisite finishing and the iconic timepieces they power, inviting collectors to appreciate the enduring legacy of ultra-thin movements. This piece serves as an excellent reference for understanding the historical significance and aesthetic appeal of these foundational calibers.

Today, I'd like to draw attention to two beloved calibers and to some of the watches which have them: 
  • Vacheron Constantin caliber 1003 (introduced in 1955, developed by JLC and finished by VC)
  • JaegerLeCoultre caliber 849 (introduced in 1994)
Absolutely stunning movements, especially the 1003, which is a little more refined and elaborate, and which exists in a gold version.

And the watches which have them are true masterpieces as well (I've been very tempted by VC's Historiques 1955 at some point)!

Enjoy!


Vacheron Constantin cal. 1003 (left) & Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 849 (right) (credit: Hodinkee) 




Vacheron Constantin Historiques Ultra-Fine 1955 ref. 33155/000P-B169 (2010) (credit: Watch Collecting Lifestyle & EveryWatch)










Vacheron Constantin Historiques Ultra-Fine 1955 ref. 33155/000R-9588 (2010)  (credit: Hodinkee & EveryWatch)








Vacheron Constantin 1972 Prestige de la France ref. 33172/000G-9775 (2013) (credit: The Eclecticum)






Vacheron Constantin 1972 Prestige de la France ref. 33172/000G-9757 40 pcs limited edition for the opening of the Paris Boutique (2013) (credit: Haute Time)






Vacheron Constantin unreferenced model with cal. 1003  (credit: Rocks and clocks)






Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin 180th anniversary Jubilee in platinum (2013)  (credit: Hodinkee)












IWC Portofino Ultra-Thin Yellow Gold ref. IW2010-01 (1993) NB: caliber 849 dates from 1994 and this watch is supposedly from 1993, but its caliber looks like the 849 (credit: fashionacedesigns.com)




About the CHRONOSWISS Historiques Ref. 1972Prestige

The Chronoswiss Historiques 1972Prestige is a distinctive model within the Historiques collection, characterized by its non-traditional case shape. It represents Chronoswiss's exploration of design beyond conventional round forms, offering a unique aesthetic that appeals to collectors seeking individuality and historical design influences from the early 1970s. This reference stands out for its commitment to a specific period's design language while maintaining Chronoswiss's signature attention to detail.

The watch features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm x 38mm, which houses the automatic caliber C. 125. This movement provides a power reserve of 40 hours. The silver dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, ensuring clarity and durability. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear but not for immersion. The fixed bezel complements the overall case design.

This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate independent watchmaking and specific vintage design cues, particularly those drawn to the 1970s aesthetic. It offers a blend of traditional craftsmanship with a less common case silhouette, making it a noteworthy piece for those interested in Chronoswiss's more experimental designs. The inclusion of a date complication adds practical functionality to its distinctive appearance.

Specifications

Caliber
C. 125
Case
18k white gold
Diameter
38mm x 38mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
TE
TeutonicCarFan
Oct 10, 2024

I have thought of this one many times, it just doesn't fit my dress style.

BR
bruckner4
Oct 10, 2024

Mine has a solid back.

QU
quattro
Oct 10, 2024

As is the case back (photo found on zeitauktion.com)!

QU
quattro
Oct 10, 2024

I was tempted, but preferred to save the money for the LF micro-rotor.

LW
LwC
Oct 10, 2024

AFAIK all of these calibers share the same lineage: the F. Piguet cal. 21. If you use the search function you should find a few threads that discuss the development of these movements and the relationship with the FP21 in some detail. The IWC movement might actually be a FP21!

EK
eklektik
Oct 10, 2024

(although some purists prefer closed case. In my case, I wouldn't leave only to watchmakers the priviledge to see that beautiful movement) Glad to see yours, I'm super pleased when I wear mine, I guess it is the same with you! Best, E.

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