Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Full Open 38mm

This year, Zenith has brought us a remarkably complete and consistently convincing range of offerings, which included a very subtle but important redesign of the Chronomaster line. A new skeleton variant, call Full Open, was introduced in all three sizes. Here we look at the 'unisex' 38mm piece (to the left in below image):



The watch is unmistakably a Chronomaster 1969 - but boy! What a dial!



The entire dial has given way to nothing but air in order to expose the underlying architecture of the El Primero movement, save for the bezel ring and a central tri-lobe for the subdial counters, all three of which eye-catchers with their characteristic concentric ring structures:



For facilitated reading, all hands with timing function signal a red tip (central seconds hand, minutes and hours counter hands at 3 and 6 o'clock, respectively), whereas those devoted to displaying the time are black and white. A much welcome distinction!

The Zenith logo has been vapour printed to the inner side of the crystal and is flying in mid air above the dramatic mechanical microcosm. What I really like is the finely accentuated antithesic tension between the filigree date numerals and the martial teeth of its carrier date ring...



The exposed and staggered layers of hands, bezel/indices, dial and movement mechanism accentuates the sinewy density of its body...



The overall impression is that of a well-exercised athlete, a compact power pack.



Let's take a closer look at a number of details. First, the subdials. Not only are they unmistakeably beautiful, moreover - since Basel 2017 - they are practical again: Overlapping though they are, just like the 1969 original, each of them still retains sufficient exclusive space to include a fully scaled and legible index arrangement.

This is aesthetically a small but functionally a major change to the previous version (skeleton or not), and for the first time makes the chronograph usuable as minute counter. Thank you, Zenith!



The second detail I'd like to mention is the date ring and indication. Fully openworked, Zenith has eschewed the usual date printing (which would come across like an interruption) and opted for a cut-out ring consistent with the overall scheme of the watch. Thuse, the date ring with its massive teeth, carries fine numerals with almost too fragile looking holding posts.



The date indication is magnified with a red arrow at 4:30, combined with a red area below the date ring at this position - a sufficiently clear and aesthetically unobstrusive solution which I guess will please many, and will likely be accepted also by those who are often thin-skinned about date windows...

On the movement side, we'll see something new as well - in terms of decoration at least: a dark galvanised, monochrome instance of the El Primero movement, with matte and brushed surfaces but without Geneva stripes. Purely techncial, so to speak!



The Full Open makes a fantastic appearance on the wrist. Its exposed complexity is not overwhelming, thanks to the overall lightness of the elements. Complexity is hidden, but can be appreciated if one wants.



One important element of its appeal I guess is the steel bracelet, which here particularly appears like a good old vintage one. The bracelet adds sufficient metal surface to enhance the seemless integration of the skeleton details into a well-rounded watch design. With a leather strap I suppose the effect of the former would be more dominating.

Its quality and wearing comfort is very good as well, although it cannot be compared to the ones of Blancpain, for instance, which are so tightly made that pinching of hairs is a non-issue. But such a bracelet would put the piece in a different price range of course.



At a modest 38mm size, naturally, the question would come up how such a watch would sit on a female wrist - I can assure (or warn, depending on specific circumstances ;-)) you that it just looks adorable:



I for one know already that I would have the 'share' this watch... I pay and she wears...

Overall, a superb offering from Le Locle, with a very convincing design concept and the usual precise and spotless execution one is used from Zenith. What I applaud even more is the Jean-Claude Biver swiftly made good on his promise he gave to PuristS back in January in Geneva, i.e. to abandon illegible overlapping subdials. Chapeau!

The watch is very high on my list of the Basel 2017 favourites; I mean my absolute list, not only the Zenith one. Its also addresses the ladies amongst us, thus making for a very nice his/hers piece.



Thanks for reading!
Magnus

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Our venue: The restaurant 'Rathhaus im Georgium' at the Längsee lake in Carinthia, Austria.

1. At the Rathhaus restaurant, Chef Markus Rath together with his partner and sommelier Bianca Hirschmugl, offer an essential cuisine inspired by the nature of the house's gorgeous surroundings. The dishes are all rather simple and pure, but crafted with ingredients from its own gardens as well as specialties sourced from the neighbouring farmers, with painstaking care, and are all free of additives. (http://rathhaus.co.at)
2. The restaurant is part of the Georgium winery (located in the same building), led by winemakers Marcus Gruze and Uta Slamanig, where a selection of finest wines are made, all with sponatneous fermetantation without additives and without any beautification or filtration ('natural wines'), and with as little sulfur as possible. Specialites are outstanding Burgundies or Pinots. It's also possible to stay the night in the guestrooms, all fit with locally made natural furniture, mattraces and fittings. (http://www.georgium.at)
   

(Rathhaus' homemade salami)


(May game with yeast dumplings)


(Filet of sea trout with zucchini and lemon, on homemade gnocchi)




(Georgium Burgundy Cuvée 2012)