Review
AnthonyTsai introduces two significant Zenith El Primero Chronomaster models from 2012: the Chronomaster 1969 and the Chronomaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase. His post highlights Zenith's commitment to its heritage, particularly the iconic El Primero movement and its distinctive multi-hued dial. This article explores how these new releases blend historical aesthetics with modern design elements, sparking a lively community discussion on Zenith's design philosophy.
Zenith - El Primero CHRONOMASTER 1969 & Chronomaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase, Two Iconic Signatures For A Legendary Watch
EL PRIMERO CHRONOMASTER 1969
The new El Primero Chronomaster 1969 chronograph is a concentrated blend of Zenith's genetic heritage: the historical colours of the first El Primero chronograph are associated for the first time with the emblematic dial opening revealing the beating heart of the movement – the signature of the Manufacture Zenith. An authentic summary of the brand DNA.
Zenith made its mark on watchmaking history by presenting the first integrated automatic chronograph movement in 1969. The world's most accurate mechanical series-made caliber - beating at a frequency of 10 vibrations per second and thus capable of measuring 1/10ths of a second – gave rise to the legendary El Primero chronograph. The unprecedented mechanical accomplishment was not the only distinguishing element of the chronograph presented over 40 years ago by the Manufacture Zenith. In 1969, when the trend strongly favoured monochrome dials, the El Primero model also stood out by its multi-hued dial featuring three counters in different colours and a red sweep seconds chronograph hand for enhanced readability. Having lost nothing of their effectiveness, these same colour codes are highlighted on the new El Primero Chronomaster 1969 chronograph: the two 30-minute and 12-hour counters at 3 and 6 o'clock respectively feature the same colours as the original 1969 El Primero model: midnight blue for the former and anthracite for the latter.
The dial opening revealing the beating heart of an exceptional movement is another characteristic Zenith innovation. This signature which has become inseparable from the brand with the star logo is now associated for the first time with the colour codes of the original 1969 chronograph. Above and beyond the aesthetic effect, further reinforced by the silver-toned inner bezel ring secured by three blued screws, this opening provides fascinating glimpses of the perfectly synchronised beating and the magic of the gear trains of what is now unanimously regarded as "the world's best series-produced movement". To achieve optimal visibility of this heart in motion, the Zenith movement design engineers and watchmakers have entirely rethought the construction of the calibre and shifted the regulating organ – and its 10 vibrations per second – to 10 o'clock, on the periphery of the movement.
NEW El PrimEro moVEmENT
This Chronomaster 1969 model houses a new automatic chronograph movement entirely developed, fine-tuned and produced in-house, El Primero Calibre 4061. Like all El Primero movements, it beats at the exceptional frequency of 10 vibrations per second (or 36,000 vibrations per hour) and can thereby measure 1/10ths of a second. This new chronograph movement with an approximately 50-hour power reserve comprises 282 parts and features meticulous finishes, visible in particular through the famous dial opening. The new El Primero Chornomaster 1969 displays the hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, as well as the chronograph function with a central sweep seconds hand along with 30-minute and 12-hour counters at 3 and 6 o'clock respectively.
The new El Primero Chronomaster 1969 chronograph comes with a 42 mm-diameter steel case that is water-resistant to 100 metres and equipped with vintage-style round pushbuttons. It is available on a black alligator leather strap complete with steel buckle.
· OPENING REVEALING THE LEGENDARY BEATING HEART OF THE El PrimEro moVEmENT
· AUTOMATIC COLUMN- WHEEL EL PRIMERO CHRONOGRAPH
· 42 MM CASE DIAMETER
TECHNICAL DATA
MOveMent
El Primero 4061, automatic
Calibre : 13¼ ``` (Diameter: 30 mm)
Thickness : 6.60 mm
Components : 282
Jewels : 31
Frequency : 36,000 VpH – (5 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 50 hours
Finishings: Oscillating weight with "Côtes de Genève" pattern.
FunctiOns
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 9 o'clock
2-counter chronograph :
– Central chronograph hand
– 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock
– 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock
case, DiaL & hanDs
Material: Stainless steel
Diameter: 42 mm
Diameter opening: 37.10 mm
Crystal : Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflection treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Silver sunray with 2 coloured counters
Hour-markers: Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1, faceted
Hands: Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1, faceted
stRaP & BuckLes
Alligator leather strap with protective rubber lining
black alligator leather
Ref. : 27.00.2118.496
Stainless steel buckles
Stainless steel pin buckle
Ref. : 27.01.0018.008
Stainless steel triple folding clasp (optional)
Ref. : 27.03.0138.940
eL PRiMeRO CHroNomASTEr oPEN GRANDE DATE MOON & SUNPHASE
The name El Primero alone is enough to evoke its exceptional chronographic performances, yet this model goes well beyond this capability by offering various useful complications, including a poetic and exclusive display of the moon and sun phases. The new El Primero Chronomaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase is available in two versions with a case in rose gold or steel.
AN ALLIANCE OF USEFUL COMPLICATIONS
Since the advent of the first automatic integrated chronograph launched by Zenith in 1969, the famous collection of El Primero calibres has constantly evolved, while jealously safeguarding its distinctive frequency of 10 vibrations per second (36,000 vibrations per hour), which makes this the only movement capable of measuring and displaying 1/10ths of a second. Over the more than 40 years since their introduction, the precision and reliability of the El Primero chronographs have earned them truly legendary status.
In 2012, the Manufacture Zenith is further enriching this major collection by unveiling the El Primero Chronomaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase model in two new rose gold and steel versions. In addition to the chronograph which, like all El Primero movements, measures 1/10ths of a second, Calibre 4047 also indicates the hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, large date at 2 o'clock – by means of two concentric discs – as well as displaying the moon and sunphases at 6 o'clock. The latter is a useful and poetic complication specific to Zenith, portrayed by an indication reflecting the double path of the sun and moon by means of two superimposed discs. The transparent upper disc with two polished metallic moons performs one rotation every 59 days, while the lower day/night disc makes one full turn every 24 hours. The El Primero Calibre 4047 comprises 332 parts serving to display this range of useful complications.
THE OPEN DIAL, A ZENITH SIGNATURE
To display these celestial movements at 6 o'clock and the days passing through the large date aperture at 2 o'clock, Zenith has created a dial with a sunburst motif radiating from the centre (silver-toned or black according to the versions), along with circular satin-brushed chapter-ring zone and counter zone at 3 o'clock, while the sun and moon aperture at 6 o'clock is sunburst guilloché-worked on its lower section. Representing the emblematic signature of the Manufacture Zenith, the dial opening onto the beating heart of the movement reveals the regulating organ and its high-frequency vibrations, as well as the meticulous finishing adorning the entirety of this exceptional movement. Available in rose gold or steel versions with a silver-toned or black dial, the El Primero Chronomaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase features a generous 45 mm-diameter case equipped with round vintage-style pushbuttons and water-resistant to 50 metres. It is fitted with a brown (for the rose gold version) or black (steel version) alligator leather strap with matching metal buckle.
· OPENING REVEALING THE LEGENDARY BEATING HEART OF THE El PrimEro moVEmENT
· AUTOMATIC COLUMN-WHEEL EL PRIMERO CHRONOGRAPH WITH MOON & SUNPHASE INDICATOR
· 45 MM CASE DIAMETER
TECHNICAL DATA
MOveMent
El Primero 4047, automatic
Calibre : 13½ ``` (Diameter: 30.50 mm)
Thickness : 9.05 mm
Components : 332
Jewels : 41
Frequency : 36,000 VpH – (5 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 50 hours
Finishings : Oscillating weight with "Côtes de Genève" pattern.
FunctiOns
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds hand at 9 o'clock
Chronograph :
– Central seconds hand
– 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock
Grande Date at 2 o'clock
Moon & Sunphase indicator at 6 o'clock
BOîtieR, caDRan et aiguiLLes
Material : 18-carat rose gold or stainless steel
Diameter: 45 mm
Diameter opening: 38.5 mm
Crystal : Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflection treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 5 ATM
Dial: Silver or black sunray
Hour-markers: Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1 faceted (with or without gold plating)
Hands: Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1 faceted (with or without gold plating)
stRaP & BuckLes
Alligator leather strap with protective rubber lining
brown alligator leather
Ref. : 27.00.2218.713
black alligator leather
Ref. : 27.00.2218.714
Buckles
Ref. : 27.17.0018.008
18-carat rose gold pin buckle
Ref. : 27.03.0138.940
Stainless steel
Ref. : 27.17.003.940
18-carat rose gold triple folding clasp (optional)
A BROADER COLLECTION ENCOMPASSING HIGH PRECISION AND PRECIOUS ELEGANCE
At the heart of the Zenith collections, the El Primero Chronomaster Open line offers a vast palette of models, all identifiable by their dial revealing the beating heart of the legendary chronograph movement. A broad range of complications is available in 42 or 45 mm-diameter cases made of platinum, rose gold or steel, with grey, silver-toned or black dials, and fitted with alligator leather straps or steel bracelets. The latest El Primero Chronomaster Open model by Zenith eloquently demonstrates that the most accomplished technical feats can be matched by the most graceful elegance. El Primero, the legendary chronograph movement launched by Zenith in 1969, is housed in a rose gold or steel case framing a dial in shimmering white mother-of-pearl enhanced by 21 diamonds. In keeping with the identity codes of the El Primero Chronomaster collection, this new model features a 42 mm-diameter case with round vintagestyle pushbuttons and water-resistant to 100 metres.
Press Release
The Zenith El Primero Original 1969 is a re-edition that pays homage to the initial El Primero chronograph from 1969, known for its high-frequency movement. This model is characterized by its 38mm case size and distinctive tri-color sub-dials, which are faithful to the historical design. It occupies a significant place in Zenith's collection as a direct link to its heritage, offering a vintage aesthetic with modern manufacturing.
This watch houses the automatic El Primero Caliber 400, an integrated column-wheel chronograph movement beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz), providing a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. The case is typically stainless steel, and the dial features three sub-dials for 30-minute, 12-hour chronograph functions, and small seconds, often in contrasting colors. The crystal is sapphire, and the caseback is usually transparent, showcasing the movement.
For collectors, the El Primero Original 1969 is highly sought after due to its historical accuracy, compact 38mm size which appeals to a broad range of wrist sizes, and the technical prowess of the El Primero movement. Its design, particularly the tri-color sub-dials, is a recognizable signature of the original 1969 model, making it a desirable piece for those appreciating chronograph history and classic proportions.
Are these models that were left over from a few years ago and Z thought it could unload some inventory now that it built up some good will? A harsh thought, but actually what sprung to my mind. I prefer that the brand keep returning to its roots and innovate in less superficial ways (literally, I mean open dials are lame or not new or not exciting or all of the above). Last year was great and I hope to see more built on that momentum. Positive thoughts, but honest feedback. My first watch was a
Seriously disappointed in these new models. I love this brand, but unfortunately it seems like one step forward, two steps back.
what a Pity . Faisal
First off, I like the design of the Grande Date Moon & Sunphase model - I think it is the best-looking open dial model of the current offerings, although my absolute favorite remains the Nataf-era version, with its guilloche work on the dials and sun-moon subdial. Now on to the criticism. I don't quite understand the decision to make the overlapping subdials a signature element of the El Primero line. The New Vintage 1969, released at the end of the Nataf era, had mildly-overlapping subdials. bu
If Zenith designed the dial to not have overlapping dials, the subdials would be extremely small in diameter. As a result, the subdials would make the symmetry of the dial very atrocious IMO. There's no way to avoid the overlapping dials on these Zenith watches unless Zenith uses a much larger size movement. Cheers, Anthony
But the legibility problem would largely be solved if the minutes subdial overlapped the hours subdial, as in fact it does on the vintage model. There are two other solutions that Zenith used in historical models that I made an earlier post about: http://zenith.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-1123/pi-4743758/ti-715578/s--23/ So you see, we do not live in Candide's "best of all possible worlds" and it is Zenith's continued failure to address the readability issue that frustrates me...and other
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