Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 2017 Review

The recently presented Defy Lab Oscillator (see here ) is a prominent example, but also small details are not forgotten, as the evolution of the Chronomaster series from its first presentation in Geneva, in January this year, to its final release just two months later, at BaselWorld 2017, attests:



Throwback Geneva watch week, January 2017, at the Zenith boat:



We got presented with a preview on the novelties for this year, which of course included a sneak peek at the really forward thinking Defy El Primero 21 (for an in-depth article on the technology and its importance for the brand see: here ), but also some lovely iterations of the existing Chronomaster collections. Very lovely new colour combinations... BUT:



The 'good old' problem with Zenith's dress chronographs unfortunately persisted: How on earth is one supposed to precisely read the counted minutes - between 16 and 22 minutes this is impossible, because the subdial of the hours counter bites away all minute scales (and no, the hour indices there don't help):



Now, for a manufacture known mainly for its chronographs and one which prizes itself with chronometric precision, I think it is akin to entering forbidden land if products are not fully functional.

We discussed this issue intensively with a man known for his passion for his brands, but also for his openness to criticism and sheer speed to execute decisions: Jean-Claude Biver, back then still (interim) CEO of the brand:



Jean-Claude, himself a watch collector (and incidentially a great fan of us here at PuristSPro) acknowledged he has not noticed this so far, and immediately asked the product manager to rectify this problem. And just two months later, at our presentation at Zenith's booth in Basel, we saw this (38mm version; differences in dial colour are due to different illumination):



YES! All chronograph counters now have properly aligned scales, no fatal cutout anymore - and we as PuristS have been expressively given credit for highlighting the problem to Zenith!



Zenith reduced the diameter of the subdials so that each such dial retains a full scale:





Guess how Zenith designed the dials on the inaugural pieces of 1970 (note: they were also 38mm in diameter)?



Backside with a familiar view:



On the wrist, the new Chronomasters retain their strong personality albeit with a more formal aesthetic. Perfect size at 38mm, I think!





Overall, the watches may appear a bit less gaudy, as the subdials now gain a harmonious balance with the overall diameter of the timepiece, and simultaneously loose their 'Mickey Mouse' like impression:



A rectification which could (and should!) have been implemented many years ago. Nevertheless, Zenith finally listened and acted, so we now have a wonderful watch, and a testament for a serious manufacture that is not shy to acknowledge and (finally) correct faults which bother (mainly) the die-hard collectors!

In the meantime, Jean-Claude Biver ceded the management tasks over to Julien Tornare, the new CEO of Zenith. Mr Tornare himself has a very open personality, as I could observe myself, both in direct interaction as well as online. Like Mr Biver, he is exceptionally open to ideas and (substantiated) comments and criticism. This is not only new to Zenith, but moreover this is a rare trait in the entire watch industry. For me, a brand which demonstrates that it takes its customers serious (and not just keeping them (temporarily) in a good mood, sedated by champagne), as experts, as partners, has great chances to develop a loyal following of aficionados which stand to their brand. Loyalists who spread the message as owner-abassadors (much more credible - and cheaper - than those usual 'friends of the brands'), and who continue to support a manufacture even in economically challenging times.

So, as a bottom line I feel very optimistic: Zenith, really bears the Future of Tradition!

In the following, I will, without much ado and words, present the other versions I saw.

Best,
Magnus