Ornatus-Mundi introduces Zenith's 40mm Pilot Type 20 Extra Special, reimagined as a unisex offering with vibrant dial and strap combinations. This post highlights Zenith's strategic move to make its iconic pilot watch more accessible and playful, while retaining its serious aviation tool watch qualities.
Zenith has taken its female version of the oversized
Pilot Type 20 Extra Special, coming in a very wearable
40mm, and transformed it into a compelling
UniSex variant, replacing the subseconds with a large central one, and coincidentially spicing it up with fresh combinations of
aged steel,
colourful dials (khaki, blue, burgundy or grey) and the series' archetypical
aged oily nubuck straps (khaki, blue, raspberry or mustard):
The newly conceptualised size makes the watch now essentially a 'democratic' proposition as a perfect his/hers all-in-one piece (if the two can decide on the colour, that is) with a bit more playful take on an aviation tool watch, while of course retaining all the serious qualities of the 45mm original:
- 40 mm case made from aged steel
- broad fluted crown
- oversized luminescent numerals
- grained dial (in different 'tastes')
- solid aged steel case-back bearing the company's historical logo
- manufacture automatic Zenith Elite 679 calibre
In the following, I'd like to explore the different dial/strap combinations. Let's start with
(khaki/khaki):
Problably the version closest to a military watch, I found the very subtle contrast between the green-tinted dial and the aged brushed bezel quite remakable. I noticed that the reflectiveness of the egg-shell dial structure varies between colours. The green version is silky smooth; and offers a fine counterpoint to the brushed cathedral hands.
Common to all 40mm Extra Special watches is the engraving on the back: the vintage Zenith 'Flying Instruments' logo - a very welcome move by Zenith (in my opinion much preferable to the cafe racer icon):
At its natural place on the wrist, one is awe-struck by how nicely proportioned this hitherto ladies' piece actually is for a male beholder and custodian. In its khaki clothes the watch asks to be taken seriously.
Immensly cool - at leat for me - is the
(blue/blue) variant. Blue has been taken up in an almost exuberant pace during the last few years, but the lustre of a fine blue dial offers ample justification. Here, we can admire the rare instance of a matte dial in all blue:
For, the sexiest of them all:
Enter
(burgundy/raspberry):
The most playful, and also the most gaudy of the four. The dial surface appears a tiny bit more reflective than the first two versions.
Interesting, but not for me. Not that I would claim being representative for the target audience to a significant degree ...
Finally, the
(grey/mustard) combo. This essentially is the time-only version of the reverred Pilot Ton-Up chronograph Zenith presented last year, dave for the yellowish strap (replace it with the khaki strap of the first watch and you're covered - actually this is something I need to try in
Vienna with a good
coffee soon...):
Due to time constraints (the presentation room was needed for the next appointment, and PuristS
never finish appreciating watches within the allocated time frame...) I did not take a wristshot of this one. I will deliver at a later time; promised!
In conclusion, I think its was high time for Zenith to expand the target audiences of the 40mm Extra Special watch and offer variants that not exclusively attract to the female clientele. The watch buyers' tastes indeed slowly but increasingly tend to favour smaller diameters, and Zenith recognised this and delivered quickly.
For a starter, Zenith chose to clad this new UniSex version in the decidedly mechanic and steely attire of the immensely successful Pilot Ton-Up chronograph of last year, a move that I can perfectly understand. The many dial/strap combinations add variety to a rather well confined overall theme, although I am not a convert to all of them.
On the technical side, I am glad that even this piece sports the venerable Elite Cal. 679 movement, even if it is hidden form view. One crucial departure from the female version of yesteryear is the large central seconds hand, which is just a delight to follow on its smooth, suave journey around the dial. It was one of the most charming sights on the 45mm Extra Special, and has not lost a jota of attraction here.
Priced slightly below CHF 6000.
Now, if Zenith would add a simple black version my wallet would experience an instant loss of weight...
Cheers and thanks for reading,
Magnus
