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SIHH 2019: Girard Perregaux Esmeralda White Gold.

amanico
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Esmeralda: A magic name given to a pocket watch in the second half of the 19th Century. 

A rose gold  Tourbillon Chronometer with gold bridges which received superb finishings: 

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This legend saw the light, once again, in 2016, but in a wrist watch, this time. 

The 44 mm big, 14, 55 mm high case was in rose gold, sublime, even for the non colored gold watch I am. 

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In 2018, Girard-Perregaux went farther in the homage, with the Esmeralda à Secret, a rose gold version with a decorated case this time, and a hinged case back. 

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If the diameter is the same, it was a tad thicker, due to the hinged case back, with 15, 25 mm. 

The work on the case is impressive, even if not my taste, I must say. 

But the level of finishings of the movement, especially the three gold bridges and the back, and the possibility for the owner to admire the reflection of the movement in the inside of the hinged case back is a pure feast for the eyes. 

I was able and very lucky to have the opportunity to take some pictures of this rare watch:

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This year, Girard-Perregaux decided to revisit the Esmeralda, with a white gold version, and the same proportions than the 2016 model ( 44 mm x 14, 55 mm case ).

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Colder, more discreet, the white gold Esmeralda is a pure and understated watch. 

The white gold bridges are in harmony with the hands and the dial. The wheel and the balance wheel are the only parts which contrast with this monochromatic marvel. 

Of course, the level of finishings of the dial and the back are at the same level the the former versions, as it can be expected for a Tourbillon with gold bridges. 

And for those who think that an automatic movement cannot compete with a manual winding one, the Esmeralda and all the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillons with gold bridges give a superb demonstration on how wrong they are! 

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The movement is automatic, here. The Cal GP09400 has a micro rotor you can see at 12 o' clock. It beats at the pace of 21, 600 vibrations per hour and offers a good power reserve of 90 hours. 

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Now there is one question which is worth being discussed: Is it a sacrilege to have a white metal " Esmeralda ", does it have to be in rose gold, or is it a good thing? 

My opinion is that it is a very good thing to have a white metal version. It adds a small touch of modernity and understatement to the Esmeralda. 

Now, I would love to see a hinged case back on the white gold Esmeralda. In fact, this is my only regret on that watch. The reflection of the movement in the inside part of the hinged case back is such a feast! 

One last word on the size: 44 mm may appear big for some of us, but when you are lucky to handle such a watch, it looks and feels, in the reality, a tad smaller. 

One of the marvels of the SIHH, this year. 

Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,

Best. 

Nicolas

Comments:
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Gelato Monster December 6th, 2019-15:23
Amazing is understatement The golden bridge is a classic avant-garde. The back in my opinion is just very beautiful but neither revealing nor deeply panoramic to my liking. Nonetheless it's tourbillon so it is incomparably always pulling me into ♥️ affair with it. If I may share m... 
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amanico December 6th, 2019-17:40
True about the back, bu it is always the same with most of the Tourbillons with bridges from GP. Thanks for commenting, G.M.  
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Catulle December 6th, 2019-15:27
I like the engraving. I own and shoot shotguns and appreciate the work of the engraver. Like engraving on guns and knives, though, not any engraving is tasteful. Both of these hand made knives (Tony Bose) have been engraved by master engraver Geoffrey Gourmet. ... 
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Gelato Monster December 6th, 2019-15:35
Gorgeous Is it also stippled?
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Catulle December 6th, 2019-19:43
No, I don’t think so. I don’t see any stippling.  
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amanico December 6th, 2019-17:41
Thanks, Catulle.  
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Catulle December 6th, 2019-19:44
Just a humble sample. I don’t know if pictures of guns are allowed here.  
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Bounce781 December 6th, 2019-15:40
The white gold version is incredible. I remember Mitch talking about it on a podcast (Watchgeektime I think) about this watch!
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amanico December 6th, 2019-17:41
I well remember discussing this watch with him, indeed.  
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timerider December 14th, 2019-13:25
Now in my permanent archive. Thanks Nicolas for a great piece. This is a grail watch for me, many personal ties to its creation. The craftsmanship is superb. It is also my size due to my bear paw genes. Thanks for the photography and your write up. A PuristS Classic. Best, Tim
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Bill
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Vintage Rolex Booklets - Spotting the fakes

Bill
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Vintage Rolex booklets are great part of a full set. It adds another dimension to how the watch was intended to be used. The booklets are half owners manual and half advertising presentations. Sometimes we are lucky to find full sets from original owners and those are the standards that we go by.


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