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Furlan Marri: Chronograph Kickstarter Edition

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I had met Andrea Furlan during the SIHH 2019 during a discussion with Dominique Renaud. It gives me great pleasure to exchange with him again in a completely different context: that of his own project, carried out in collaboration with the collector Hamad A. Marri. Not surprisingly, the name of the brand that will be truly launched in a few days via the Kickstarter campaign starting on the 10th of March brings together the surnames of the two founders: Furlan Marri. From a mechanical point of view, the Furlan Marri chronograph is obviously at the antipodes of the innovative dimension of Dominique Renaud's blade regulator. But a successful watch is not only a concentrate of technology. It is also a timepiece that creates emotion, has a coherent aesthetic approach and offers a meticulous presentation. The Furlan Marri chronograph meets this definition. I had been seduced by the photos seen on Instagram and this is why I wanted to see and handle one of the prototypes of this chronograph more closely.

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The watch I was entrusted with for a few days is the "Laccato Nero" version. The objective of Andrea Furlan and Hamad A. Marri is to propose 5 versions of their initial watch in the context of the Kickstarter campaign. And among these 5 versions, 2 will only be available during this operation (the "Farro" and "Havana Salmon" versions). I am convinced that the campaign will be a success. The brand communicates well, has considerably increased its visibility in recent weeks, taking advantage of the exposure provided by a few key accounts and Hamad A. Marri's own network. This growing notoriety is not usurped because the watch is attractive, especially considering the price that will be offered during the campaign (268 euros if one watch is ordered). It must be said that the duo complements each other very well: on the one hand, a Swiss industrial designer who has the double experience of creating rare and exceptional pieces and developing mass products, and on the other hand, a collector from the Middle East who knows perfectly well the aspirations of the clientele.

The Furlan Marri chronograph surfs on the wave of neo-retro. One might think that this is an easy way to achieve success since this trend has been one of the most commercially effective for several years. However, you still need to be able to create a convincing watch that stands out from the crowd. In fact, the success of the Furlan Marri Chronograph lies in the attention to detail from both an aesthetic and finishing point of view. The attractive price should not generate any visible compromises and I must admit that the content offered by the watch is solid.

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Let's be clear: from an aesthetic point of view, the Furlan Marri chronograph does not explore new avenues. In the end, it is very faithful to the classic chronographs of the 40/50s. When I discovered the "Laccato Nero" version, I immediately thought of the old references of Patek or Vacheron Constantin, all proportionate of course. However, for a watch that will be sold for a few hundred euros, the result is irreproachable.

First of all, I very much appreciated that the diameter of the case is 38mm, which is an elegant size and faithful to the spirit I was looking for. The steel case is well executed and above all it is much more subtle than one could imagine. The diameter at the caseside is larger than the bezel so there is a small step at the edge of the sapphire glass. This step as well as the shape of the glass give a lot of volume to the watch even if the thickness remains reasonable (11.2mm). The alternation between polished and brushed parts also contributes to the perceived quality. Note the beautiful full decagonal back, respectful of the retro atmosphere.

The strong point of the Furlan Marri chronograph is the dial. It is very nicely executed and has many details that enhance it. I particularly like the Roman numerals applied at 6 and 12 o'clock, the very clean indexes, the precision of the graduation as well as the peripheral tachymeter scale. The two sub-dials are harmoniously positioned and the watch "does not squint". This is the virtue of a contained diameter. So I could only see the dial of the "Laccato Nero" version but the pictures of the other versions seem to indicate a homogeneous quality of realization. In any case, there is something for all tastes since Furlan Marri has adopted either a wise and ultra classic style as for example with the "Mr. Grey" dial or a more dynamic or warm style as with the "Havana Salmon" dial. The "Laccato Nero" dial has no reproach and I could observe an irreproachable manufacturing quality even on a prototype watch.

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The hands are also at the same level of workmanship. They are faithful to this immersion in the atmosphere of the classic chronographs of the beautiful houses. Leaf type, they are thin, very elegant and have the ideal size to allow an easy reading of the time and sub-dials information. Note that two versions offer chronograph hands that contrast with the other hands (the "Tasti Tondi" version with blued chronograph hands and the "Mr. Grey" version with darker hands) while for the other versions, all hands have the same color.

It should be noted, however, that there is no permanent second hand: the left sub-dial is dedicated to the minute counter, while the right sub-dial is a 24-hour time display. The functionalities of the sub-dials are due to the use of a special movement: the Seiko VK64 mechatronic quartz caliber. One can obviously regret the choice of such a movement which goes in some way against the retro spirit sought after. Now, I consider the use of such a movement logical in the respect of Furlan Marri's specifications. The objective was to use a fine, reliable and affordable caliber so that the watch's other elements would have the desired quality level while remaining within the price target set. In this context, the solid back is welcome because this movement is not pretty to look at.

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On the other hand, it is very pleasant to use: the push-pieces engage without difficulty and the behavior of the chronograph second hand is reminiscent of a 100% mechanical movement. And since the watch has no permanent second hand, it is a real eye-catcher. Of course, Furlan Marri's ambition is not to be satisfied with this situation and once the brand is established, it will use mechanical movements.

Anyway, even though the caliber is not fascinating, I have enjoyed wearing the Furlan Marri chronograph. Its aesthetics hit the bull's eye and I was able to appreciate its balance, elegance and many small details unsuspected for a watch at this price. For example, the applied indexes and numerals change color depending on the light. The different depth effects bring refinement and subtlety. The shape of the crown, flat and enlarged, makes it very easy to handle and contributes to its aesthetic integration. The pushers are also pleasant to use and the watch is worn with great comfort thanks to the very smooth and well-finished calfskin strap. And what about the surprising engraving between the lugs that accentuates the wink to the watches of the past? In short, the balance is extremely positive and we quickly forget the price segment in which the watch is located and focus only on the very nice wrist effect it provides.

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All these elements lead me to believe that the Kickstarter campaign will be a success. In fact, the only real question is how long it will take to reach the goal... and I have no problem imagining that it will be a very short period of time. In any case, I sincerely hope for this success because I want the brand to go further and subsequently offer watches with purely mechanical movements.

Pros:

+ convincing neo-retro aesthetics

+ the quality of the finishes taking into account the price segment

+ care to details

+ the varied choice of different dials

Cons:

- the caliber is not 100% mechanical

Comments:
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Mohannad (aka Riddler) March 7th, 2021-04:50
Agree the watch is very impressive and the duo did a great job  I will share your post with Hamad
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Watchonthewrists March 7th, 2021-05:03
I have been following them on IG for some time now and can’t wait to get my hands on one soon 🙏🏻🤗 
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LX (Alex) March 7th, 2021-05:49
I wish VC and PP would consider the popularity of these timeless designs and offer something like this in their current collections. I love Calatrava style cases.
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Ron_W March 7th, 2021-06:18
From what i read on his background he is capable of much more interesting watches, complications etc. This is not that different from Baltic or Dan Henry watches i think. Is he following the Ming strategy by building a name on a very affordable watch to follow up wit something more interresting ?
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Clueless_Collector March 7th, 2021-07:54
At least they know how to make the watches look great.... I noticed hints of PP/VC vintage vibes and 5960G pushers. Why are major brands designers not get it 😅
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Rosneathian March 7th, 2021-21:34
An excellent, balanced review. Thank You. As someone who's been enticed by the 1990s Roger Dubuis Hommage, I might satisfy a little of that wishfulness with one of these. 
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Rosneathian April 11th, 2021-10:22
Addendum: I'll be ordering this one later this month, having subscribed as an 'early bird.' For $330 it's a stylistic gem. ... 
chintu April 11th, 2021-19:43
The brand seems to know how to market itself.. Going by the supportive articles in watch media and forums and in print media like NYTimes, it is a credit to the brand that has demonstrated ability to positively leverage the power of electronic media and the internet visual media. Take a historic desig... 
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