The Tangente is Nomos' great classic, directly inspired by the Bauhaus type watches made by Lange and Stowa in the late 1930s. It is characterised by its round case, slim bezel and Arabic numerals with recognisable font. I owned a Tangente a long time ago and it was a watch that gave me a lot of pleasure. It was elegant without being too formal and timeless without being too classic. Moreover, it has stood the test of time perfectly since the same watch in 2020 is still relevant and as desirable as ever.
At the beginning of the year, Nomos announced the release of a special edition of the Tangente made with Parisian retailer Antoine de Macedo and sold in a limited series of 75 pieces. Since the launch of the Tangente in 1992, Nomos has multiplied the references of its flagship model by offering complications (date, power reserve...), different case sizes and automatic movements. There is now even a sports version with a bracelet. However, the version resulting from the collaboration with Antoine de Macedo remains faithful to the basic model, the 35mm-diameter, without any complication and powered by a hand-wound movement, the Alpha calibre, which was the first to be created by the Manufacture.
The name of the retailer is very discreetly displayed on the dial:
This movement, if it had to be summed up in a few words, is a reinterpretation of the Peseux 7001 calibre with a Nomos style. Logical after all because the first Nomos watches were powered by this calibre and the new movement had to offer a similar size. That said, there is a fundamental difference between the Peseux 7001 calibre and the Alpha calibre: the latter has a stop second whereas the former doesn't hack. However, the performances are similar with a power reserve of 43 hours for a 3hz frequency. Its size is small by today's standards (23.3mm in diameter) but there is nothing shocking when used in a 35mm watch. Admittedly the position of the second hand is a little too close to the centre but the lay-out of the dial remains harmonious.
The presentation of the Alpha calibre (which can be seen in the context of this limited series) is neatly finished with an attractive decoration of the three-quarter plate and the balance bridge with Glashütte ribs and, above all, an elegant sunburst effect on the ratchet and crown wheel. This is my favourite decorative element. I would have liked to have seen a more attractive balance bridge but the visual rendering of the movement is very pleasing, especially in this price segment.
The Tangente Antoine de Macedo is a watch that differs from the catalogue model by subtle differences on the dial side. The numerals and indexes are in a bright blue colour which allows them to contrast slightly with the traditional and usual blued hands. In addition, the retailer's name is very discreetly written in red at the base of the dial, between the indexes and the bezel. These small touches of red and blue on the white silver-plated dial define a charming and delicate French atmosphere that only a discerning eye will notice. This is the reason why this limited series is a success. All the spirit of the original Nomos Tangente is retained and nothing is a strong eye-catcher.
The 35mm diameter may seem small by today's standards. But the perceived size is actually much larger because the dial opening is maximum given the thinness of the bezel. As with the Tangente in the catalogue, the Tangente Antoine de Macedo exudes a feeling of elegance that is not devoid of character thanks to the characteristic Bauhaus influence. The Tangente Antoine de Macedo is comfortable to wear and practical for everyday use. The water resistance is limited (30 metres) but the contained size of the watch and the near absence of a bezel protect it from scratches. In addition, the strap is made of calfskin and it seemed more resistant than the usual black Cordovan Shell strap of the watch in the catalogue. In any case, its softness is appreciated. Finally, the handwinding experience, which has to be done daily, is easy even if it obviously doesn't bring the same feeling as a Lange calibre.
The bracelet gains in sofness and comfort:
The Tangente Antoine de Macedo is not a watch that stands in radical contrast to the original Nomos Tangente. It is aimed at customers who are looking for a slightly alternative version with an applealing colour of the indexes and numerals. The improved comfort of the strap is an additional plus. The price of this Tangente is 1,840 euros. It is therefore higher than the Tangente in the catalogue (1,660 euros for the version with sapphire crystal back). But the possibility of acquiring a watch from a small series with a little French influence justifies it. In any case, I am pleased that Nomos and Antoine de Macedo were able to offer this limited series because it proves the interest of the German brand in the French market.
Pros:
+ the timeless charm of the Tangente
+ the colour of the numbers and indexes
+ the comfort and softness of the strap
Cons:
- the second hand is too close to the centre because the movement is small.
Fr.Xavier