Parmigiani has a lot of fans, here, on WatchProSite, and rightly so. With Parmigiani watches, we are far from trends, bubbles, hype. Their watches are made with an extreme care of the details. They are the essence of Horology.
Some of their watches caught my attention, this year. Two of them, to tell you all: The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, which works like a split seconds, but here, this is a Split GMT, which means that once you are back home and that the second time zone is not useful for you, you just have to activate the pusher on the crown to make the GMT hand jump under the hour hand. Sober, astute, clever, original, and extremely well made.
The second watch which caught all my attention is the Tonda PF Skeleton, which comes in two versions: A steel / platinum and a full rose gold.
The steel platinum:
The Rose Gold.
As you can see, the dials and the movements receive the same decoration and finishings, the only thing which changes is the metal of the case, crown and bracelet.
- The case is 40 mm big and only 8, 5 mm high, with a blend of satined and polished parts which play with light. The long and slim lugs are very elegant. Do we have a new sport chic watch, here? I do think so, and the fact that it doesn't play the " Genta Card " is an excellent point.
The outside part of the bezel is knurled while the inside is polished, and, for the steel version, made in platinum. I am not a big fan of knurled or fluted bezels, I must say, and this Tonda PF Skeleton is no exception to that. But the idea to use platinum for the bezel pleases me. I would have just loved to have smooth bezel on this watch.
The crown is a small one, with a diameter of only 4, 3 mm which reinforces the preciousness of this watch, its extreme elegance.
On the back side, you will see the movement through the sapphire, which is, in this case, a very good idea, or better said, the only solution since this watch has a skeletonized movement. And here, there is something to see!
To be complete, this watch is water resistant to 100 meters, which will allow you to wear it without fear, even in your " water activities ".
- The dial and the movement are intimately linked, here. Both are Graphite, a dark grey, contrasting with the applied indices and hands made in rose gold. Of course, the steel version looks colder, but not less eye catching, for me. Both sides are satin and sandblasted finished, which literally catches the light and enhances the artistic dimension of the dial / movement. The angles of the bridges are beveled. Well, to sum it, we have a pure and true work of Horology.
The warmer rose gold version:
What I like a lot is that the Skeleton is not Baroque at all. It is light, aerial and modern. I am pretty sure that it will age timelessly.
The movement, Cal PF 777 characteristics: It is automatic, with a discreet rotor which doesn't hide anything of the movement beauty, it beats at the pace of 28, 800 alternances per hour, it is made of 187 parts, and offers a good power reserve of 60 hours.
This watch is one of my 2022 Watches and Wonders " coup de coeur ", I must say. There were not so many, only 8, truth to be told, and this Tonda PF Skeleton, especially in steel, is one of them.
Because it blends with originality refinement and sports.
Because it doesn't borrow the now too common Genta's style of the Royal Oak and other Nautilus. It has its own identity. Bravo for that.
Because the level of quality is obvious.
Because it is a true piece of Artistic Horology, which is not always evident with Skeleton watches, often a bit outdated...
Now, the knurled bezel disturbs me, a bit. But maybe it can also be seen as a part of this watch's DNA?
The last point which bugs me is the price: 59, 000 CHF in steel, 88, 000 CHF in rose gold. That is ambitious, to say the least, but the quality is here.
Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,