SIHH 2008: the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin range
Ultra thin watches have lost most of their prestige in the last decades as the quartz era has made us forget the mastery they require!
On the contrary ultra thin watches remain for the calibre amateurs and the real horology fans a real proof of great talent!
Ultra thin watches took a very important place in Jaeger-LeCoultre's history. In fact Jacques-David Le Coultre came to answer Edmond Jaeger's search for ultra thin calibres in 1903. That's ultra thin calibres and LeCoultre's talents in this specialty that initiated the great encounter and the beginning of the 2Oth century's history of JLC! No less!
The record calibre 145 was the first brick, a 1.38mm thick pocket watch calibre created in 1907 and powering some great watches from that time (among them some absolutely fantastic Cartier ultra thin pocket watches).
I won't sum up now the numerous calibres developed then by LeCoultre and later Jaeger-LeCoultre! 
The most recent ultra thin calibre is the well known calibre 849! We'll see it again in the next years.
For your information it was deeply reviewed here: http://www.thepurists.com/watch/features/8ohms/jlchw/index.html
Now let's have a look at the new offerings.
The first new model is defined as the Master Grande Ultra Thin, an automatic 40mm three hands watch cased in what is indeed a thin case.
The watch is powered by a 3.98mm thick calibre 896, a small seconds version of calibre 899 with variable inertia balance and ceramic ball bearings.
I let you judge by yourself of the thinness of this watch. The case is apparently 8.62mm thick. What I can say is that it is indeed quite thin on the wrist.
The design of this watch is awesome in fact (IMO of course). No date, a small seconds, a really thin case and the great pleasure of wearing everyday an automatic watch!
I personally don't like much so far the eggshell colour of the pink gold versions' dial, but I've also seen the steel version on Janek Deleskievicz wrist and the sunray-brushed silver colour is perfect for me!
The new mainstream choice in the range is quite probably going to be the 38mm hand wind Master Ultra Thin in steel.
This new enlarged version has a greater size, becoming a modern ultra thin. I'm glad that JLC didn't go larger than 38!
The older version in 34mm is supposed to remain available and is more seen by JLC as a women's ultra thin now (something nobody will convince me of, but who cares as now I want both sizes).
Both models in 34 and 38mm share the same calibre 849, a real marvel of 1.85mm of thickness!
The 38mm has a stronger dial, maybe more casual than the "dresser" and simpler 34mm version.
I've long been in love with the 34mm version, that I still love but yes the larger version is dangerously appealing.
Did you know that the calibre 849 is so demanding, so thin, that it is assembled in the Watchmaking Specialties Workshop of JLC with the most complicated pieces like the minute repeaters?
Obviously the question we had before SIHH was about a new calibre. We would have loved to discover a new enlarged calibre but apparently there was no sufficient reason to improve on the 849. I admit it is a very appealing calibre. Now that we keep the same, can we do with it?
In fact if you look at both backs I admit the 849 doesn't annoy me in the 38mm case. The kind of "blade" form of the cases help to admit a smaller calibre.
The 38mm case is also thicker, said to be 6.31mm thick against the 5.75mm of the 34mm version. In fact I didn't notice that the watch was thicker! It works perfectly well in fact. (note from Dje: the 34mm thickness is finally 5.75mm and not 4.20mm as it was indicated to me before).
If you look at both profiles you'll notice that they seem very close looking.
Nicolas already presented the commemorative editions. I have a few more pics for our pleasure.
If I wrote earlier that I personally don't like much the eggshell colour of the "standard" pink gold versions' dial, the chocolate dial of the commemorative edition is just gorgeous!
The brown combo is very tasty and we can wonder why we don't see more often such colours!
I'm not yet saying no to the old lady even if tempted by the younger sister!
In fact I'd be happy to get a steel 38 to fit with a pink gold 34! Am I asking too much?
So you understand the great news is that we have a wider choice now and only good options.
You have to find yours! I have mine!
Dje
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