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My first Montblanc Watch - the Heritage Chronometrie Ultra Slim

KMII
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'A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless. We find that after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us.' John Steinbeck

We may not be in the territory of years yet, and struggle is most certainly not how I would describe my moderator role here. Yet the journey towards my first Montblanc piece was neither straightforward, nor easy. there have been suitable candidates aplenty and at the same time a number of questions on what direction to place my first 'ownership' step in. Paraphrasing Kapuscinski from my first post as a Montblanc moderator : "There exists something like a contagion of travel, and the disease is essentially incurable."  I guess this would fully fit most of our horological journey, too.

At some point the decision was there that to take the first step was more important than to further ponder on the destination. And one little discussed watch here, which was incidentally also the subject of my first Montblanc post on PuristSPro - way before I became moderator - has become my first Montblanc. The Heritage Chronometrie Ultra Slim.


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This has become my first ultra slim watch (at 5,8mm), and adds something I can wear to more formal occasions to my collection. The classical size (38mm x 5,8mm), minimalist two hand design and a hand wound movement, all added to the appeal of the piece for me. It is almost impossible to get an ultra thin watch of similar appeal for anything near the value proposition offered here - in fact, the number of brands offering something at under 6mm is not particularly large in the first place. 


Having had the watch for some weeks now, I feel confident in some first impressions. First of all, the movement. The MB2301 movement is based on the Peseux 7001 - or ETA 7001, in current parlance.


The movement may not be a fully in-house design but has in its various forms graced anything from Blancpain Chronometers to most Nomos watches (as a base movement design for the Alpha movement). It is adequately thin - and would even offer the option of a small seconds hand at 6 o'clock - which Montblanc (in my opinion, wisely) decided to omit. It may be too small for a 38mm case (23,3mm x 2,5mm thin), which you fortunately do not see from the front, as it's a two hander. I would have preferred a solid case back as a result but can understand Montblanc's decision to have fitted a sapphire case back, as many owners may enjoy it. 



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The movement finishing is not hand made and nothing like what is offered on the Villeret collection. Still, we are talking apples and oranges here none 


You will get Geneva stripes and polished screws but not much more in terms of excitement. Still, it offers chronometric levels of accuracy (COSC certification is not possible, as there is no seconds hand), a 42h power reserve and a certain robustness, due to it being a tried and tested design. In that sense it's perhaps not the perfect successor to the Calibre 48 but it's thinner and contributes towards the watch being available at a much lower price level. 


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Now to the case and the wearing experience. The picture below shows what I mean by ultra slim. It is placed side by side with my Minerva Pythagore A481. It is about 60% of the latter's thickness only, which is quite impressive. Especially since I never had any issues hiding the Pythagore underneath any shirt cuff, no matter how tight. 


And unlike the very thin Piagets, the lugs are fully integrated into the case design, making the watch look a tad more organic when viewed from the side (not that you often see this perspective on the wrist).


At the same time one also sees some design similarities between the Pythagore and the Heritage Chronometrie from this perspective, even if the proportions are quite different. 


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Here on the wrist. Given the thinness, this means a completely flat case back. Still, at only 38mm this is a lot less of an issue than it would be with a larger case size. 


And while this means it fits comfortably on pretty much all wrists, I have to say the flat design seems to contribute to it wearing much larger. I suppose the thin bezel helps, as well as the fact that it's so close to your wrist none


What you also see from this perspective is the crown, stainless steel like the rest of the watch. It is sized nicely for hand winding, just right not to be fiddly on the one hand, while not too large for the case, either. And it has a Montblanc six sided glacier logo etched into it. 


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I cannot yet say how well it dresses down, or how it wears in casual situations, but with a shirt and suit it's generally spot on. Understated for sure and the opposite of in your face but still all you need to tell time. 



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The dial has a sunburst finish, which makes it quite difficult to photograph in the sunshine. This is complemented with applied numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12, as well as applied hour markers. In addition you have a railroad minute track around the perimeter, and minimalist signage - a painted Montblanc and Mechanique below 12, and Swiss Made at 6 o'clock. I suppose it could do without the Mecanique but then it's not a disturbance, either. 


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As journeys go it's a good first step. It gets worn quite a bit and winding it each morning I wear it is simply a pleasant way to connect to the watch. Especially since the winding feel is very nice (honestly have to say it's preferable to the Minerva Pythagore in that respect). I also feel the watch fits wonderfully to the brand IMHO. I am looking to more similar models in the portfolio in the years to come and Ken has already indicated where this could get expanded to in his SIHH post. On which more in due course. 


But the question still remains, which will be my next Montblanc... none 

Comments:
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NT931 May 31st, 2017-05:54
I agree, this is an excellent value proposition! I've been eyeing the rose gold model for some time... very discreet and slim indeed!
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KMII May 31st, 2017-06:00
Absolutely agreed! Liked the RG a lot but am a white metals guy in the end Do share it, if you take the plunge!
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Thomahof May 31st, 2017-06:07
I did not buy it But it was very close - still tempted. Great watch, congratulations 😀 ... 
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KMII May 31st, 2017-06:13
You will not regret it, Thomahof! It is a very appealing watch, growing on you with every wear!
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JFT May 31st, 2017-06:23
Cool! I've been targeting this ever since it was launched, still waiting for someone could persuade me to pull the trigger but I never seen anyone doing the review for this piece until now... Thank you! Btw, is this steel version is more "formal"? I've seen the... 
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KMII May 31st, 2017-07:06
Thanks for your comments and questions, Jev! Hard to answer if the steel looks more formal but you may be right - the monochrome look you produce with it is certainly colder, more detached than what you get with the warmer, RG case. I guess you can dress it down, especially if you change the strap f... 
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MichaelC May 31st, 2017-06:58
Big Congratulations! Certainly, I wish you much better luck with your 1st MB than I have had with mine. I clearly remember my first few months of ownership, it was pure love and I was dreaming daily on the next one.
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KMII May 31st, 2017-07:08
Thanks, Michael! Let's hope that all works out OK for you, and that you will be able to regain your love for the 1858 Tachymeter to start off with, and potentially a next one later, too Let's see, if the last call was a sign of things turning for the better!
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Baron - Mr Red May 31st, 2017-07:20
Congratulations...... .....i really enjoyed your process of evaluation and that entire concept of journeying. Wear in the best of health. Joe
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KMII May 31st, 2017-07:22
Thanks a lot Joe! For your kind words and wishes As for journeying, I guess that's what we're all doing here, right?
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