Panerai: A Watch Brand in Evolution & How 7 People Discovered It

Photo: fletch01

If you’ve loved watches for a long enough period of time, you just might be fortunate enough to witness the evolution of a brand. Whether you like a particular brand or not, seeing the changes that it slowly goes through can be exciting and motivating. At times it could also be down-right disappointing and leave a bad taste in your mouth when you don’t necessary agree with the direction that it is moving in. There will always be fans and non-fans but discovering a brand for yourself is a personal experience and a potentially fun one too.

History & Change

Panerai is one of those brands that has picked up spectators at varying points throughout its evolutionary destiny. It has a history that originates with the Royal Italian Navy but a lot of the widespread popularity that it has amassed along with developments have taken place in the past 20 years. Watching the changes that have occurred in recent decades is astonishing - going from a rugged military watch to a contemporary symbol of coolness.

Photo: fernando

It really wasn’t all that long ago when Panerai was a lesser known niche brand trying to carve out a place in the watch-retailer lineup. Fast forward 20 years and stores can barely get enough models to satisfy the demand. A showcase devoted to Panerai watches at a popular US retailer comes to mind. There were perhaps a dozen or so slots and only about half of them were filled with watches. Wait lists for certain models are common and if you ask Panerai, it really doesn’t matter who you are. You’ll have to wait just like everyone else. But of course who’s to say you can’t get lucky from time to time.  

Photo: nilomis

The Growth of Panerai

Just like many other Richemont brands, Panerai now has a string of their own boutiques across the globe. The move not only builds upon its growing international image and brand awareness but further expands its business and access to clientele on a worldwide scale. Perhaps most impressive in Panerai’s evolution has been the development of its own in-house movements in recent years. With this technical achievement the company now captures the ever skeptical and highly unimpressed attention of many serious watch connoisseurs in addition to the fanatical mass Paneristis.

On the design front, Panerai is unique in that it is able to move forward incrementally with small changes like the insertion of a logo, change of a marker, variations in dial color and case material, slight shaving of the case shape etc. It is one of the only brands around who manage to evolve but retain relatively the same look, for all of its watches. To an outsider, a non-Paneristi, they would easily say that the watches all look the same. But to the discernible eye of the seasoned Panerai enthusiast, he will notice even the most minute changes. 

Photo: Blomman

Nearly Unaffordable But Affordable

Throughout all of Panerai’s evolutionary changes in such a short period of time, it has still remained, despite price hikes, a watch that is financially accessible to a large part of the professional working class. It may be similar to Rolex in that way. Both have an upscale luxury image. However Rolex has the more developed brand and Panerai takes on a modern and less conventional look.

Photo: William M

Panerai watches can be ideal for those who are new to watch collecting, the newbie PuristS and WIS-in-the-making who need an entry point. But one thing is for sure. You have to be comfortable with big watches because that is one thing that has not changed. In fact, Panerai watches may have a part in the whole large watch movement that has swept the industry during the past decade. It will be interesting to see whether the evolution of the brand remains within the working model of being nearly unaffordable but affordable.

Photo: ch9698

Seven Watch Fans Share How They Discovered Panerai

Depending on when you first discovered the brand along the timeline of its evolution and under what circumstances, will likely have an effect on your feelings overall. Here are seven individuals, some veteran watch collectors, some who are just starting out and others who hope to someday, who tell how they first came to know Panerai and their initial perspectives of its watches. 

The Brand Loyalist

“My 1st time stumbling onto Panerai watches was around year 2000 or early 2001.  At that time, my ex-wife's brother was in the market to buy a new watch.  We went to the Tourneau store on Long Island in NY and saw the PAM52 40mm chronograph in the display window.  After that day, I googled Panerai to find more info on the brand, and then it all went downhill from there. ”

The Newbie

“The first time I saw a Panerai Luminor it was on the wrist of my colleague at work, about two years ago. He had just gotten his year end bonus and he decided to reward himself. I immediately thought it looked sporty but also elegant at the same time and could be versatile in any setting. I started looking at all the models online and reading some of the articles. It’s taken two years but I finally am able to say that I am a proud owner of my very first Panerai watch, a PAM392 and couldn’t be happier.”

The Vintage Lover

“It was in 1997, and when I saw this big Tuna Can, I immediately fell in love with. It was a Pre Vendôme ( 44 mm ) Marina Miltare. A few weeks after, I saw a slightly more human Mare Nostrum Pam 7 ( the white dialed one ). It was the coup de grace. So, I started to hunt the tuna cans, since then.”

The Average Guy

“I saw it in a store in La Jolla in 2004 when I was getting my rolex serviced. I also like the clean rugged look.”

The Non-fan

“I don't remember with any clarity, but it was early on like 2001 or 2002, in my first years of active collecting, and my initial impressions were favorable.  It was only years later, after getting involved with the forums, that the cult aspect of Panerai devotion became apparent.  The level of enthusiasm Panerai engenders is what turns me off the brand.  I could see myself getting into Rolex with the right vintage model.”

The AP Lover

I was introduced to Panerai watches by my AD about five or six years ago. It was not too long after I purchased my AP ROO Safari. I thought it was okay. I like the size but it doesn’t make enough of a statement for me. It’s not on the same level exclusivity-wise.

The Aspiring Panerai Owner

“I first learned about Panerai watches in 2005 because one of my mentors was wearing a Luminor in a photograph. (He’s a NY Times best-selling author) My initial impression is that they are incredibly classy, elegant, and versatile. I’d feel comfortable wearing many models with both casual and formal attire.”