Cormac
40
My patented vintage Patek evaluation process.
This is an interesting watch, and may very well be a rare Patek, or possibly an extravagant fake. This is one reason I enjoy collecting these older pieces - finding that rare diamond is a thrill.
Without seeing the watch itself, or a photo of the movement and inside caseback, these comments can only be taken as speculative conjecture. I will simply give all my observations, regardless of the conclusion each supports. You can then judge for yourself. This is my process for evaluating a vintage Patek.
From the design of the dial and hands, this would appear to be a Patek from 1938-1943. The first thing I notice is that the 3 hands are very fine, and certainly hand made. It was during this period that black dials were common, as related the war torn days in Europe. However, there are several issues with this dial. The dial seems just slightly strange, for example the slightly thick 9. Patek did, however make this dial design. The signature actually looks ok, although I don't recall seeing a sunken seconds subdial with the 15, 30, 45 & 60 numbers only. The quality of the printing, and the fact that it is 1 degree CCW off, points to a possible redial. However, note that it would be difficult to redial this face without ruining the numerals and indices, which otherwise seem correct.
By the color, the case appears to be 18K (a good sign) but I do not recall ever seeing a Patek with teardrop lugs, where the drop enlarges away from the case. (Not to say that they never made one.) In reference 1461, note that the drops are reversed, and there are several references that follow that design. The construction of the case is definitely high quality, noting where the case connects to the lugs, the stepped side, and the inset for the crown. At the high end, this lug design is most often seen from Vacheron Constantin.
The crown, as viewable, appears correct. If it were skinny and off the case, I would have a concern.
Upon opening it, I would expect this watch to contain a Patek caliber 12-120 movement, and therefore for the watch to be slightly large for the period. The 27.75mm calibre 12-120 was manufactured from 1935-1952, and is found in some of the most interesting vintage Pateks, in regards to unusual cases.
Now, (two days later) having visually evaluated the watch from personal experience, with an expected calibre and narrowed timeframe, I scan my reference material to see if I can find a similar reference.
I first flipped through Ehrhardt and DeMesy "Patek Philippe", which has pictures of over 200 vintage Pateks, organized by movement and case style. Nothing found, in fact, not one teardrop case which enlarges outward. Secondly, I open Huber & Banbury, which lists all the references, by calibre, but contains relatively fewer pictures. Turning to the 12-120 section, reference 1543 (1942) appears. This is certainly the ref of your watch. The one pictured in the book has an incredible tear drop bracelet, but a white dial with printed numerals and dot indices. The back table tells me that this ref was started in 1942, and that a second one is pictured earlier in the book. This one has similar applied numerals, but your's has better hands than both. With a quick Antiquorum search, it does not appear that this reference has been at auction recently, at least there.
ANSWER: REF 1543 probably from 1941, possible redial.
