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MING 29.01 Worldtimer Launch

 
 By: patrick_y : April 5th, 2023-16:56
The original World Time design was created by Louis Cottier over a hundred years ago. And that design lives on today with the MING 29.01 Worldtimer! I know all of us know how a World Time movement works, so I won't bore you with my usual long-winded detailed post. Here are the photos and the specs. Like always, MING watches are made in small batches, and this one is a limited edition of 100 pieces. I presume the sneaker and hoodie-wearing tech company executives will like this watch as well for its design that's a wonderful combination of modern and classic design that uniquely makes the MING brand what it is. Plus, that TRON movie influence helps too. Please look at these beautiful photos. MING makes not only very beautiful watches, but the best photos in the watch industry!


The watch is easy to read, and notice, MING is a time zone between Tokyo and Bangkok!  



The design is faithful to the Louis Cottier design.  The case features pierced lugs and a case made of Grade 5 Titanium - the only grade that's able to be polished to a mirror shine.  There's also a new buckle.  


The dial is probably partially laser laser engraved and features sapphire elements as well as metal elements.  The hands are sapphire hands!  Louis Cottier specifically prescribed special hands for his World Time watches and this MING is again faithful to that concept.  



Here you can see the sapphire hands.  The lume is somehow integrated into the dial and hands in some special new and awesome way.  



This movement is just amazing.  Beautifully made and decorated to a fairly high degree, this movement has an MB&F quality to it with some classic finishings combined with many modern touches and blacked out components.  A very cool movement.  (Moderator Edit by Patrick_y)



Here's that famous TRON look that's part of the MING DNA.  I call it the TRON look - as it reminds me of the TRON movies.  Again, the magic here is how MING added the LUME material to the dials and hands.  I speculate that they use a laser to create the sandblasted look on the dial in the precise letters and numbers on the dial, and then applied layers of a special kind of transparent LUME material behind the lasered figures.  I'm guessing.  The magicians might never fully reveal their secrets...  With only a 100 pieces made, this watch will always remain a rare site and a pleasure to see!


- Functions: 

  • Hours and minutes 
  • Worldtime function
  • Automatic winding via microrotor 

- Case, dial & hands:

  • 40mm diameter, 11.9mm thickness
  • Grade 5 titanium
  • Polished and blasted ‘flying blade’ interlocking lugs 
  • Deep box sapphire crystal front with bezel-less construction; domed rear crystal; both with double-sided antireflective coating
  • Sapphire dial with HyCeram ceramic Super-LumiNova X1 fill
  • Metallic 24h disc with day-night gradient and Super-LumiNova X1 fill
  • Sapphire hands with HyCeram ceramic Super-LumiNova X1 fill
  • 50m water resistance
  • 22mm lug width

- Movement:

  • Schwarz-Etienne for MING Cal. ASE 222, 31jewels
  • 30mm diameter, 5.6mm thickness
  • Bidirectional automatic winding via microrotor
  • Skeletonized barrel 
  • DLC coated bridges with contrast rhodium diamond cut anglage
  • ~70h power reserve at full wind 
  • Movement adjusted to five positions

- Straps:

  • 1x Dark Blue Alcantara strap by Jean Rosseau Paris
  • 1x additional Jean Rousseau strap of customer’s choice 
  • 22mm width, curved bars with quick release
  • Fitted with stainless steel ‘tuck’ buckle with micro adjustment

- Leather travel pouch handmade in Kuala Lumpur by Studio Koji Sato

- 2 year limited mechanical warranty

- Made in Switzerland

- Edition of 100 watches

Smoke saphhire dial and i'd be in :)

 
 By: m2 : April 5th, 2023-16:59

They probably have that in an even smaller limited edition. Send them an email and see if they have anything in their off-menu selection.

 
 By: patrick_y : April 5th, 2023-17:07
I really don't know anything so I hope I'm not giving away any secrets! Never hurts to ask!

What a splendid view of the world !

 
 By: Jtl : April 5th, 2023-17:01

Well said! A splendid view indeed!

 
 By: patrick_y : April 5th, 2023-17:06

It’s a great looking watch. As most Ming are.

 
 By: Jay (Eire) : April 5th, 2023-18:44
I still struggle with paying a relatively new company like Ming in this case that amount of money.  Which I am sure is something many of us think too. 

To me this is a far more interesting, cooler, more aesthetically pleasing watch than pretty much anything at the same price from Rolex, Patek, Lange etc.  

Perhaps it’s a case of “come back in 10 years” and then my mind will be more comfortable with big ticket items from Ming.

This is not a slight on Ming, it’s more a comment on consumer behaviors.  

I wonder what gets others here over this issue?  

It IS A LOT OF MONEY!

 
 By: patrick_y : April 5th, 2023-19:12
Indeed, it is a lot of money! But honestly, if you look at it, their costs of production are high since they don't have scale. True, they're starting off with a Schwarz Etienne base movement so they can save on development costs, but the movement is so heavily customized, very unique cases, very unique dials, and a lot of steps and unusual processes are being used here. Imagine this dial has to be cut from a sapphire boule, then polished and finished, then laser ablated, then probably more polish detail, then lume treatment, then more polish and finishing detail... This dial is probably more involved than other average dials. And then the design can only be amortized over 100 units. So all these fixed costs add up.
But yes, at $20,000 USD, you're halfway to Patek Philippe territory, and that's a gold case, this is only titanium. Makes the Patek Philippe look very reasonably priced. But compared to an MB&F or an Urwerk (which admittedly use more bespoke movements) this MING is relatively inexpensive. MING also captures the full revenue, as they're not really sold in retailers so they don't need to split the revenue with a retail partner. MING definitely has carved out a niche. And with nobody else making TRON looking watches, they've got a very unique DNA that no other brand really has.
I personally really like the simpler MING timepieces. You get the modern design DNA, you get a cool customized version of a workhorse caliber that's known to be reliable, and you get it at a price of around $5000 USD. That's the sweet spot! The thinner 27 series being my favorite. Here's my review of the one I like the most. www.watchprosite.com

The downside is you have to leap at the product without time to touch or feel

 
 By: cazalea : April 5th, 2023-19:51
And without any time for consideration. You get an email “this is coming” but no details, then at 5 am or something two days later you have to fight to get a bid in, perhaps without seeing exactly what you are committing to.

This is not for me, no matter how pretty the watch. At €2000, perhaps, but definitely not at €20,000.

Cazalea

They have a generous return policy...

 
 By: patrick_y : April 5th, 2023-19:55
If you really don't like it, they'll take the watch back! But I agree, without a store, how does one get a feel for the watch and how it sits on your wrist? This new concept of buying things online and not at a store is definitely very strange for me.

Yes, they do accept returns; they accepted one from me

 
 By: cazalea : April 6th, 2023-14:12
But when you buy from another country you also have customs duties, and in CA and other places you might pay Use Tax or Sales Tax. Returning things to an overseas supplier thus incurs the complication of rewinding those fees or else just writing them off as the cost of being a collector. 

When you can put the watch on your wrist and see/feel its physical fit and finish, you can then buy with more confidence and a lot less hassle (in the long run). 

The watch I bought had no technical flaws in assembly or operation, but I couldn't get past the "obvious in person, invisible in marketing" technical and design decision that Ming made with its hands!

Because the movement used was designed to power 3 hands, it has a second hand arbor just waiting for the second hand to be pushed on... yet Ming chose to create its minute hand and leave an opening -- so the lonely second hand arbor is just turning there -- looking like the second hand has fallen off:



As a small-time watch repairman this irked me immensely. I could have opened the watch, found a second hand, cut the hand off and fitted the hub as a cover, but why should I? And I would always know it was a "coverup".

Obessive perhaps, but really, if we didn't think that way about our watches, we wouldn't be here. So I resolved it by returning the watch and unraveling the chain of delivery expenses.

Cheers,

Mike

That complicated process is irking!

 
 By: patrick_y : April 6th, 2023-14:53

Yes, all relevant points and a fair outline of why the price might be reasonable.

 
 By: Jay (Eire) : April 5th, 2023-22:48
My point was less that the price was not fair, more that even with rationalizing the cost of inputs and what one is getting for the money there is still a hesitation at these price point. What will take to get over that? Time, longer track record.
It’s a much easier decision for their lower priced models. Which I have owned and do like.

Indeed!

 
 By: patrick_y : April 6th, 2023-00:27
And you have great taste!  I like just about everything you like.  

Each to their own

 
 By: quangminhtran94 : April 6th, 2023-00:00
while I think whether price is fair or not is personal opinion, justify the price because of their cost of production is not reasonable to me. Optimization of the cost of production is the problem for Ming, not for customer. Customers should only care about what customers get. That's it. If you like their design, or whatever the watch can bring to you, and with you the price is fair, that's totally fine, go ahead. But objectively, with around 20k, there are tons of options with interesting history, great design, with unique movement and beautiful decoration, from big brands.
And I don't agree that this movement has MB&F quality. Even with the rendering, I cannot see the comparison can be justified.

Definitely not MB&F quality...

 
 By: patrick_y : April 6th, 2023-00:25
MING is definitely not the same level as MB&F quality, and if they were, then their watches would be far too inexpensive!  I don't think anyone implied MING has MB&F movement quality.  And yes, your concept of what things cost is called value in the eye of the beholder.  As long as the customer thinks it's worth it, then MING is doing pretty good.  

maybe I misunderstood

 
 By: quangminhtran94 : April 6th, 2023-23:21
isn't that in the post said "this movement has an MB&F quality to it"?
yes I totally agree, if there is still people buying it, then Ming is doing fine. Personally, I used to, but not now, just my opinion.

Ahh! I see what you mean!

 
 By: patrick_y : April 6th, 2023-23:43
Yes, you are right, and that part of the post is definitely incorrect. It does imply that the quality of the movement is at the MB&F level. But there's a second and less obvious meaning, that the MING movement has a look similar to an MB&F movement. But in the watch making world, the word quality in this context, is definitely in line with your interpretation. My mistake! I've made an edit there. Thanks for pointing that out!

I did read it the way you intended Patrick. But I can see how it is read to mean something else too.

 
 By: Jay (Eire) : April 7th, 2023-15:17

Yes indeed. Thank you Jay!

 
 By: patrick_y : April 7th, 2023-17:28
We've got an international audience, and double entendres are not always well communicated - especially considering the context. Hope you're doing well my dapper friend! And I hope your car has come out of cold storage and is stretching its legs a bit!

I would be interested what part of the work is actually done in MING workshops and not by a third parties…

 
 By: shortys home : April 7th, 2023-17:42

MING has been very transparent to state that almost everything is done externally...

 
 By: patrick_y : April 7th, 2023-17:52
MING has pretty much openly admitted that they're doing very little themselves and nearly everything is done externally. The value add that MING provides is a superlative design that's really a great paradox - it's classic and easily accepted by just about anyone - and yet it's gone modern flourishes too and cool modern touches. It's like that new BMW 7 series with a lot of modern technology features, but it's still appealing to those who want that familiar old world luxury. Another value add that MING does here, is that it's not limited to one manufacturer - they can go anywhere for the best solutions to achieve their design purity. They'll buy movements from Schwarz Etienne, movements from Valjoux, or others - whichever one they think is the best solution for that specific project. Then they'll customize those movements - which balloons the cost tremendously with special finishing, black-out treatments, etc. to make it more in the spirit of MING. Just like how BMW will go to different manufacturers to source gearboxes. For US Market cars, BMW has bought transmissions from ZF, Aisin (a Toyota supplier, probably also a Toyota subsidiary), and probably other suppliers I can't recall - finding the best pairing and the best solution for their product.

I'm not a MING fan by any means...

 
 By: mdg : April 5th, 2023-19:57
...but the price doesn't seem terrible to me. You either love it and want to wear it, or are making a bet on a higher value down the line.

Not terrible.

 
 By: patrick_y : April 5th, 2023-21:44
Still expensive. It's definitely premium. A JLC with a similar complication wouldn't cost this much, but would also not feature some cool little touches. The Montblanc World Time watch was only around $7000 USD! And that's an established brand with pedigree (at least in fountain pens). But this is definitely cooler and more special feeling than those two brands.

To be honest, I'm not a fan of either brand...

 
 By: mdg : April 5th, 2023-21:48
...but if people like it, that's all that matters...

That's very fair.

 
 By: patrick_y : April 5th, 2023-21:50
You certainly have very expensive tastes! I'd say you're easily satisfied! Give you the best, and you're generally satisfied. Anything less than that... And you might not be fully satisfied. Pretty "easily" satisfied - just start with the best!

+1 here. Very cool piece. Seems to be "worth" it relative to others on offer.

 
 By: vitalsigns : April 5th, 2023-21:17
More interesting than many of the big name offerings at a similar price point.
Still have reluctance for the reasons noted in the response above.

I'd say it's a little on the expensive side.

 
 By: patrick_y : April 5th, 2023-21:47
You're definitely paying a premium for the cool design factor. The Montblanc World Time is only around $7000 USD. The JLC Geophysic Universal Time is around $15,000 USD in steel although they've stopped production and there probably isn't much inventory in the boutiques anymore. So this MING is definitely charging a lot for their watches. But it is a more special watch with a lot of special details.

I wonder what the JLC would cost now, with price increases.

 
 By: vitalsigns : April 5th, 2023-22:14
I've had the JLC Geo UT for about 5 years and it's a great watch and a terrific value when purchased. I love the look and functionality of the JLC (although it's a slight bit large at 41.7mm). The lacquer dial in particular is really great. That said, the Ming has a much more attractive movement, although the JLC is by no means homely.

Let's say roughly 20% more?

 
 By: patrick_y : April 5th, 2023-22:34
So it'd probably be $18K if it was $15K back then? The JLC GEO UT is a very nice watch. The 41.7mm is a bit big, and if I recall, it was also thicker than I expected at 12mm. But a very cool watch nonetheless. I was a little surprised that it cost double the Montblanc WorldTime, considering they looked somewhat similar. The Montblanc is based of a Sellita movement and is even larger (at 43mm) and probably thicker as well, so despite the similarities on the exterior, the interior shows a different story. A cheap Lada car has four doors and four wheels, like a Rolls Royce car has, but they're still very different and the Rolls Royce probably costs 30x a Lada.

I sure agree on that last point...

 
 By: vitalsigns : April 5th, 2023-22:39
On the wrist, the JLC's thickness is well-suited for its diameter, but I too am sensitive to thick watches, so the JLC at 11mm or 10.5mm (if possible) would have been better. Visually, the proportions look really good though.
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