Glashütte Original

. . . with the manual-winding cal 22 introduced this year at Basel . . . let's start with the photos, courtesy of Glashütte Original.

The Karree Panodate in gold with a silver dial . . .

. . . followed by the steel version . . .

. . . both of which I've tried on, on three occasions in the last  four weeks . . .

. . . but, alas, the black dial has eluded me so far.  The reverse side is even more interesting . . .

. . . and for good measure, the dial side of the movement . . .

The new Karrees are a substantially different design from my  favored originals . . . more rounded and polished, less angular and aesthetically taut.  Having said that, I was immediately impressed by the Karree Panodate manual winding introduced this year at Basel, and so ably photographed by Marcus and Jia Xian.  The uncharacteristically ambiguous appearance of the cal 39 models snapped into focus with the centrally located Panorama date aperture.  The Roman numerals located at the cardinal points also assisted in shifting the focus to the center of the watch, much like the crosshairs in a scope aid in concentrating on a target.    My  virtual impressions were validated by my initial encounter several weeks ago, and have been reinforced by two additional inspections last weekend.  The storekeeper was kind enough to lend me a magnifying glass so that  I could have a closer inspection of the movement, which proved to be exceedingly well finished. 

The new Karree Panodate is, in my view, a great all-around watch.   It combines formal design elements (polished case, Roman numerals,  sparse details) with casual (lumed hands, contrasting stitching band, large crown) to create an uncannily well balanced overall design that can be worn just about anywhere and anytime.  I've long felt that Glashütte Original produced some of the finest values in modern watchmaking, such as their cal 39 perpetuals,  the Panograph, and the Senator Navigator; I would place the cal 22 Karree Panodate in their company.  It's definitely going to be my next watch . . . cordially, Art



This message has been edited by Dr No on 2007-08-29 00:56:50 This message has been edited by Dr No on 2007-08-29 00:58:47

Thank-you, Art, for sharing these beautiful pics.
I must admit, I am very attracted by the black dial.
I haven't yet seen the new Karrees in the shop-windows here in Germany.
So, I will have to visit my AD next Saturday and have a look.
Unfortunately, one more purchase will not be in line with my this year's watch budget :-(
Cordially
Gerd

. . . next year can't come soon enough!  Cordially, Art

As we speak, I've opened negotiations to purchase of the 18K version of the Senator Karree.  My other options are the Jaquet Droz Grande Heure Minute Email Ivoire (J017034202) or the GO Senator Panorama Date (18K - Cal 100). 

This will be the more "formal/business" watch for continual use (my more casual watch is the GO Sport Evolution Chrono, SS w/silver dial and metal bracelet). 

Any thoughts on these three versus each other???  The merits of the cal 22 (in the Karree) vs the Cal 100 (in the Senator) vs the movement in the Droz?  Other ideas (e.g., the Patek 5107 SS?).

I'm serious...what would you do?

DB

. . . in terms of my preferences, but you're requirements are a bit  different than mine.  I feel the Karree Panodate is an exceedingly versatile watch in steel but less so in gold, where it leans more decidedly to the formal end of the spectrum.   It definitely has more of distinctive character than the other watches you mention due to it's truncated tonneau shape, which is a sword that cuts both ways.  Assuming the overall look is aesthetically appealing, I would hazard the opinion that the cal 22 movement is the Karree's trump card.  I only have perhaps half an hours experience with it, but  given it's  relatively uncomplicated design and lineage from the established cal 42, I don't have any qualms about venturing into unknown territory. 

The J*D is certainly an attractive  design,  but  I  personally  don't think it  works as well in the  casual  arena as  the  K P; it strikes me as more of a purely formal watch, which may be entirely up your alley.  There is no comparing the two movements, however . . . the K P has, as do all G O's, an inhouse movement, a factor that I consider paramount when making decisions for my own collection.  The G O that might work best for you is the Senator  Automatic, a  slightly more compact design than the Senator Panorama Date without the large date; the absence of a seconds hand and date function conveys a stately, unhurried appearance that would work well in formal settings.  Personally, after nothing but automatics* I'm beginning to appreciate the benefits of manual winding, so I'm voting for the K P with a silver dial in gold as the best suited of the three watches you mentioned for both it's stated purpose and for the potential for long-term satisfaction and pride of ownership.  Best of luck with your final decision, and let us know your final decision . . . cordially, Art

* not counting my vintage Omega Speedmaster Mk II . . . all seven new watches purchased the last six years have been automatics.
This message has been edited by Dr No on 2007-08-31 00:11:54

Dear Pals,

I dropped by in the GO boutique in KL during lunch time yesterday. Having tried wearing the new karree and inspected the inner beauty of the movement, i find this piece speaks to me dearly. I, for one, would go for the white dial. To me, if you could set aside the engraving bit on the balance cock in the Lange 1815, the finely polished surface of the calibre 22 of karree would sufficiently match that of Lange 1815. I am impressed and convinced have this beautiful piece rests on my wrist in due course.

Regards, Cal.

 

. . . which entirely matches mine.   My first in-the-metal experience with the K P came less than a half-hour after gazing at a new L & S Saxonia, and we must have had precisely the same thoughts.  There's precious little apparent difference in movement finish between the two that can be gathered by the unaided eye.  The K P also exhibits what I refer to as the "AP Millenary phenomenon": the slightly odd shape of the watch when considered on it's own  - either in a picture or in a dealer's showcase - entirely disappears when it's on the wrist.  The overall shape of the watch isn't as immediately compelling as it's predecessor, but it takes on a vibrant and natural appearance when worn.  I'm not sure of which dial color  to go with yet,  but  I'm leaning towards silver mostly because all my other G O's have black or grey dials.  Cordially, Art

I take delivery on my 18K gold KS (white dial) this week.....

DB

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. . . being the first Purist to take the plunge with the Karree Panodate!   I  would like to say  I'm right behind you in line, but  unfortunately I  have to wait until spring for purely financial reasons.  We all look forward to your photos and initial impressions . . . cordially, Art

Here are a initial pics of the Senator Karree (with the new 22 Cal movement) I pick up tomorrow. Photos courtesy of my jeweler.  Front first....

But the biggest first impression is focused on the presentation of the Cal 22 movement in the display back.  Quite neatly done..almost as if it's embedded in a solid ingot of gold.

DB, thanks for showing us the pics. Its really beautiful. Wear it in good health...

As i type, i am still thrilled to see the back case of the watch, admiring every detail like the tiny blue screws etc... Art, i may probably have it by end of this year, hopefully

Regards, Cal. 

 

. . . to own a K P!  I can't spare the funds until next year, so perhaps by then we'll have a K P fan club with dozens of members.  Which configuration appeals to you the most, Cal?  Cordially, Art  

Hello Art, the K P fan club is not impossible

I will be happy to have the steel that goes with white dial on brown croco strap, something clean, simple and relatively formal. I have the old Karree chrono (without the date) which serves me well for the past 2 years or so.

I do also like the PanamaticLunar but the steel ones are so difficult to get these days in KL.

Regards, Cal.