In
2020, Patek Philippe has chosen to present its novelties progressively,
given the sanitary context and the absence of the watches fairs. The
year was first marked by the introduction of the Calatrava 6007A, which
celebrated the new manufacture building. Most recently, the Geneva-based
brand unveiled the new Twenty-4. But between these two events, in the
middle of summer, Patek Philippe presented its three new additions to
the Grandes Complications family (the true heart of the catalog): the
5270J yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph, the 5370P platinum
split-seconds chronograph with blue enamel dial, and the 5303R
minute-repeater and tourbillon watch with pink gold case. I wished to
come back to the latter model because of the particularity of its
movement.
In fact, the Patek
Philippe 5303R symbolizes the introduction into the catalog of the
striking mechanism visible on the dial side as discovered through the
limited series of 12 pieces made for the "Watch Art Grand Exhibition
Singapore 2019" event. The Singapore 5303R is distinguished by its bold
decoration and its red hour circle with stars in place of the hour
markers. But its most distinctive feature is its tourbillon - minute
repeater movement with an original architecture. The RTO27PS caliber
that powers this watch is a kind of reverse effect of what we can find
in other equivalent watches. The tourbillon carriage is housed at the
back of the movement. This is a principle at Patek Philippe, the
manufacture arguing that the carriage is lubricated with oil sensitive
to ultraviolet rays. The striking mechanism, on the other hand, is
positioned on the dial side. To make the show even more mesmerizing, the
dial is open (or more precisely: removed) to offer a full view of the
mechanism including of course the hammers and gongs. So when the watch
strikes on demand by engaging the slide pusher, the reference 5303R
offers a visual and sound experience.
The white gold slide pusher is clearly visible on the left case side:
Such
a movement requires much more work than we can imagine. The change in
architecture from the classic R27 automatic minute-repeater movement is
complex because the striking mechanism is not simply moved. It is also
reorganized, as evidenced by the addition of about 20 new components and
distributed differently over a wider plate. This can be felt when
turning the watch over because the back of the movement is smaller than
the front. But that's not all. Because the striking mechanism is on the
same side as the time display, Patek Philippe's teams had to work to
eliminate any disruption between the display and the complication. For
example, the shape of the hammers was reworked to tilt it slightly to
avoid any possible contact with the hands.
From
a visual point of view, the result is remarkable on both sides of the
movement. Obviously, the highlight of the show is at the front. The
moving parts are clearly distinguishable from the plate and create
impressive relief effects. The black hollowed-out hands ensure correct
readability without obscuring the mechanism. Finally, the back of the
tourbillon carriage makes its permanent rotation at 6 o'clock behind the
second hand. Of course, the rendering is not the same as with the
visible part of the carriage (we are more in perception and suggestion)
but this continuous animation is appreciable.
The
5303R of the permanent collection is an aesthetic evolution of the
Singapore limited edition watch. Its range of colors is more discreet by
combining pink gold and black details. The black hour circle fits more
easily into the overall aesthetics of the watch and blends harmoniously
with the two hands. I really like the shape of these "openworked leaf"
hands which, in my opinion, gives a very contemporary touch to a watch
that breathes the tradition of beautiful watchmaking. To tell the truth,
here we apprehend the success of this watch. Patek Philippe managed to
create a very contemporary style without upsetting the classic codes.
Taken one by one, every detail is part of this tradition. But the whole
is very modern. Of course, the view of the striking mechanism
contributes greatly to the technical atmosphere. But there is more than
that, a kind of subtle balance that is a very particular know-how of the
Geneva manufacture.
To be frank, the 5303R
could be considered as a baroque watch. It is full of refined and
elaborate details. The caseside could sum it up on its own: the white
gold inserts with "leaf" decoration give relief, contrast and
sophistication at the same time. The 5303R borrows stylistic effects
from two-tone watches without this being immediately noticeable. In the
same spirit, the white gold slide pusher is clearly distinguishable from
the case.
The watch offers spectacular relief effects:
And
yet, despite this wealth of detail, the 5303R never seemed to me to be
an "overloaded" piece. It's also a question of dosage. And this dosage
is much more balanced than with a piece like the 6002 that I find
excessively loaded (in my humble point of view of course).
The
dimensions of the rose gold case are reasonable. The diameter is 42mm
for a thickness of 12.13mm. The case is therefore rather slender.
Considering the distribution of the striking movement, the front side of
the watch appears to be adapted to the diameter of the case. This is
less the case on the back of the watch for the reasons mentioned earlier
related to the particular construction of the movement. The RTO27PS
caliber is much smaller on the bridge side but from a constraint, Patek
Philippe made it an opportunity. The movement itself is finished
according to the best standards of the manufacture. But the "casing
ring" is decorated in the same way as the case side. The result is
spectacular and contributes to the integration of the movement's
aesthetic movement into the case.
The finishes
are excellent in every way but what I appreciate is the absence of
purely demonstrative elements on the movement itself. The decoration is
at the service of the technique as the profile of the hammers proves it.
The
watch is not only beautiful. It is also efficient. Admittedly, the
tourbillon has no technical originality, the carriage making one
complete revolution per minute. Moreover, the minute repeater has only
two classical gongs. But in each case, we are in the presence of a
perfectly adjusted complication. As such, the minute repeater is
impressive. I consider Patek Philippe to be the company that best
manages to combine the ingredients that make a minute repeater melody
successful: the sound volume, the sound purity, the reduction of
disturbing noises and the rhythm of the melody. The sound is perfect and
above all responds to what we are entitled to expect from such a
complication: being able to distinguish each note to understand and
determine the time that is played. This is why the hand-wound RTO27PS
caliber is a feat. There is nothing innovative or "spectacular" about
it. But it does perfectly what we expect from it. Please note its hardly
surprising frequency of 3hz and its power reserve of about forty hours.
The perceived size remains reasonable given the thickness of the bezel:
To
put such a watch on the wrist causes very beautiful feelings... and I
was immediately seduced by this original atmosphere sublimated by the
exceptional finishes of Patek Philippe. And yet, the 5303R is not
without flaws... I still wonder why the word Tourbillon is written at 1
o'clock: not only is it useless (I think the owner of the watch knows he
has a tourbillon...), but it is also detrimental to the aesthetics. And
then I come to dream of a tourbillon with a carriage on the dial
side... I understand Patek Philippe's reasoning, but basically, a
tourbillon in a wristwatch is useless. So why hide it? Let's not deny
our pleasure, the 5303R marks a step towards greater visibility.
Moreover, the sapphire glass is anti-UV treated. So, what prevents Patek
Philippe from positioning the carriage on the front? I'd like Patek
Philippe to rethink its approach about the tourbillon lay-out.
In
any case, I enjoyed every second I spent with the 5303R. It is one of
my favorite watches in the Patek Philippe Grandes Complications family.
It's more daring, more open and in a way can hint at the aesthetic
evolution of the Manufacture. It's truly one of the most beautiful new
watches of the year, all brands combined.
Pros:
+ a rather original aesthetic approach for the brand
+ a sophisticated decoration without being overloaded
+ the quality of the finishes
+ the perfect sound of the minute repeater
Cons:
- the word "tourbillon" at 1 o'clock
- certainly it is a progress but it is only the back of the carriage that is perceptible on the front of the watch
Fr.Xavier