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Hands on review of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers - La Caravelle 1950

foversta
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It is a little paradoxical to speak of a watch that evokes the great explorations in full confinement period. But I couldn't wait any longer to present this unique Vacheron Constantin piece, Les Cabinotiers - La Caravelle (The Caravel) 1950. I have always thought that the best from the Geneva manufacture was expressed when it brought an artistic touch into its watches . It has a real know-how which allows it to combine the charm and the poetry of the crafts with the rigor and the technique of watchmaking. Les Cabinotiers - La Caravelle 1950 is no exception to the rule by staging a magnificent cloisonné enamel dial produced by Anita Porchet's workshop.

This watch is inspired by a 1950 watch with the reference 4308. And like its predecessor, it uses the technique of cloisonné enamel which I find particularly suited to the context. Indeed, the gold threads accentuate the curves of the pattern and bring a lot of volume, dynamics to the whole. Nothing seems strict and narrow: the waves, the hull, the sails draw curved shapes that fit together perfectly. The round boat seems to be carried by a strong wind and the tumult of the waves. There are almost no straight lines except the mast and the yards which structure the whole. This representation contrasts with the straightness of the baton hands and the efficiency of the peripheral graduation made up of Roman numerals and dots. This graduation is reduced to its simplest expression and does not indicate the intermediate minutes. It is the right choice to leave the largest available surface on the cloisonne enamel dial.


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The dial also has a little surprise in store with the presence of a gold spangle representing the North Star. This star gives a little touch of volume and a very nice style effect.


If the pattern is successful, so is the color scheme. And unfortunately the pictures don't faithfully transpose the spectacular rendering and the play of contrasts. The use of blue is magnificent, the water and the sky seem to become one. The dial is both dark and bright and this light is consistent with the pattern and the weather conditions that we guess very rough. It is in any case one of the most beautiful enamel dials I have seen recently. The pattern is classic but interpreted in an original and powerful way and we are far from the traditional rides on the lake offered by a good number of classic watches.

The rose gold case is like this dial. Classic it certainly is since it takes the form of that of the original watch. But nowadays, a cow horn shaped lugs case appears almost as daring and unique. In any case, it perfectly matches the style and atmosphere of the watch. Its 39mm diameter is ideal: it is large enough to give space to the dial while allowing the watch to maintain an elegant format. Its thickness is 10.4mm. The watch thus offers harmonious proportions without being flat.


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On the other hand, there is a fundamental difference compared to the 1950 watch: it doesn't have a central second hand. It doesn't have a second hand at all since the movement which powers it is the manual winding caliber 4400 which usually has a small second at 6 o'clock. Its removal was mandatory in this context. This manufacture movement, which is not visible (the caseback is solid), is in my opinion one of the best manual winding calibers which was recently designed from a brand belonging  to a large group: it is very well finished (according to the Geneva Seal criteria), its performance is excellent with a power reserve of 65 hours for a frequency of 4hz, it is reliable and its winding is pleasant.


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This unique Les Cabinotiers - La Caravelle 1950 piece is thus a fine achievement which once again gives the proof of the expertise of Vacheron Constantin in this specific segment of the artistic watch. I almost wrote that it was a "demonstration" of know-how or precisely, I find that it doesn't fall into the trap of being too demonstrative as some complicated watches can be. It is coherent, perfectly made and simply attractive.

Fr.Xavier

Comments:
mdg April 6th, 2020-14:49
Maybe it's just me...but... ...the wire work appears a bit rough? Maybe it's just because the photos are up close...
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foversta April 7th, 2020-03:23
It is due to my photo technique which make them more visible than they are  
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vitalsigns April 7th, 2020-09:08
I agree...obviously magnified, so the appearance of imperfection is more acute, but a few areas seem not well done.  
batholith April 6th, 2020-14:51
Thank you once again! What a charming watch this is.
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FabR April 6th, 2020-16:15
A lovely example, thanks for the nice introduction. These beauties can only be fully appreciated in person and on the wrist, glad you had this special opportunity! Cheers.  
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TeutonicCarFan April 6th, 2020-17:48
Breathtaking the art at VC is where they excel. Wish you many enjoyable moments with her!
Fernando Bandeira de Melo April 7th, 2020-14:18
Such an amazing piece! Had the opportunity to visit the factory of Vacheron Constantin, and they are amazing at metiers d'art
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Jurry April 13th, 2020-02:41
Drooling Just one word drooling
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amanico
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Vacheron Constantin Mercator Yellow Gold Russia and Europe, ref 43050.

amanico
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It is not a mystery I am a huge fan of the Mercator. A special, refined, original and poetic piece from Vacheron which basically, made two versions, one with solid gold dial, and the other one with Enamel Champlevé dial. If I am more fan of the Enamel Champlevé dials, I cannot deny the charm of the solid gold dials. Here is an enemel Champlevé, " Germany ".


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