For a collector, a watch is a topic which is too important to be seen as a mere fashion accessory. But it is also the final touch which can perfectly complement an outfit or,  in case of bad choices, which may impair the most sophisticated dress code. The links between watchmaking and the world of haute couture are obvious but rarely staged by brands. One of the latest manifestations of this proximity was conducted by Urwerk thanks to the interesting approach with Timothy Everest through the UR-110 "Eastwood" which gave the opportunity to use tweed fabric and wood.

The five watches that make up the Métiers d'Art Elegance Sartoriale collection are subject to a different approach. They are not the result of a visible partnership with a special fashion brand or couturier (even if Vacheron collaborated with Vitale Barberis Canonico on this specific project) and they use traditional material and techniques of the Manufacture. In a sense, they should be seen as a tribute to the work of the tailors, the materials they cut and assemble thanks to dials mobilizing several crafts.



The success of this collection lies in the convincing transcription of the fabric patterns (Prince of Wales Check, Herringbone, Windowpane, Tartan and tennis stripes) with a hand guilloche enamel Grand Feu which is translucent colored. Each watch uses the same base, that is to say  a white or gold case with a 39mm diameter and an off-centered time display  at 3 am in order to dedicate a large area of ​​the dial to the specific decoration. The Champagne-coloured tapestry  gold sub-dial is decorated with a hour circle in mother-of-pearl and features painted Roman numerals.




The colors of the different enamel Grand Feu are, admittedly, bold but wisely chosen. They nicely match  the guillochages (or I would say the fabrics) patterns. The combos are:

- raspberry red & "Prince of Wales Check"
- lavender & "Herringbone"
- grey & "Windowpane"
- linen & "tennis stripes"
 - azure blue & "Tartan".

To be frank, I like a lot these combos and to be more precise, they show that Vacheron Constantin took the decision to go through its ideas with this collection. Due to  their colorful renderings and the off-centered display, the five pieces manage to marry elegance and originality that is never simple in the world of two-hand dress watches. My favorite watch is the one that uses the raspberry red color because it gives off a nice energy and the Burgundy strap looks really great on it. It is without any doubt the most original piece of the collection.




The greatest pleasure felt with these watches is to take advantage of the guillochage pattern that is more or less present according to the light conditions. It can be extremely noticeable or blends with the color and almost disappears. I also appreciate the contrast between the main pattern and the motifs etched into the time display sub-dials. Inspired by the patterns found on ties or pocket squares, this decoration discreetly  reinforces the refined style of the five watches.

Taking into account the off-centered display, Vacheron Constantin had to use a much smaller movement than the case. The caliber 1400 with a 9 lines diameter (20,65mm) is in this context ideal. Its frequency is 4hz and its power reserve is around forty hours. I like its presentation, the flawless quality of its finishes and the shapes of the bridges, with lovely inward angles. I appreciate the winding experience with it (despite its size the crown is easy to handle) what is a very important point. A watch from the  Métiers d'Art Elegance Sartoriale  is after all a dandy watch and the daily winding experience, this little ritual in the morning, is a key part of the concept!



I am however less convinced by the visual rendering of the caseback. I do believe that a  solid caseback with an engraving would have been more appropriate. I sincerely think so because the movement seems to be lost and this feeling is even emphasized by the off-centered location. Obviously, the available space leaves room for a personalized engraving and Vacheron Constantin highlighted this possibility. But a fully available caseback would have been in that case a better option!

Despite this reservation, I was seduced by this collection. It provides further evidence of the artistic abilities from Vacheron Constantin without falling into an excessive demonstration. Refined while having the hint of originality that enhances their interest, these five watches manage to get their own personalities and thus give a wide choice to those who wish to find the perfect addition to their favorite costumes or outfits.




Pros:
+ The perfectly executed dials which manage to depict the sartorial atmosphere
+ The pleasure given by the winding experience of the caliber 1400
+ A subtle balance between refinement and originality

Cons:
- A fully solid caseback  was in my opinion more appropriate

Fr.Xavier