As you know, the new Overseas collection was unveiled this year at the SIHH. This new collection was made of 2 basic watches: one three hands watch and one chronograph. I will not forget to mention that two ultra-thin watches in gold were the "precious" addition to this collection with a two hands piece and a Perpetual Calendar.
But in my mind, something was missing: a true travel watch. After all, the new Overseas collection, due to its name, to the pattern of the winding mass, to its ability to accompany its owner in all contextes, evokes the long journeys, the trips to remote countries... and so a complication was missing in the collection: the second timezone display.
I was pretty sure that an additional Overseas would be unveiled with such complication but at the end, Vacheron Constantin managed to create a true surprise. Because the additional complication is not the second timezone display but a Worldtimer. And not a mere one: the famous 37 zones display as seen previously with the Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time.
It is for me a surprise because such complication is a kind of citadel, one of the very few which remain very faithful to the classic and dressed cases. It is easy to find minute repeaters, tourbillons in casual watches. But a worldtimer is much rarer, at least to my knowledge even if I have a few cases in my mind (like Hublot).
I find this idea from Vacheron excellent for several reasons. The first reason is obvious: the complication is perfect in the context of the Overseas collection. The second reason is an aesthetic one. The specific lacquered dial lay-out made of a cities ring with 3 lines and a peripheral hours ring requires a large case to keep a certain acceptable legibility. In this context, the 43,5mm case is perfect. I'm reaching now the third reason. The Overseas World Time is available in stainless steel with 3 different dial colours (blue, brown and silver) . And I really appreciate that Vacheron Constantin took the decision to offer the World Time complication in a non precious case. Moreover, "Overseas oblige", the case features match the expectations we have in front of an all-around watch with an anti-magnetic ring and a water resistance of 150m.
Of course, the main feature of the Overseas case is preserved with the very easy way to change the straps & bracelets of the watch. One steel bracelet, one rubber strap and one alligator strap are available and it only takes a few seconds to change them... and so to totally transform the look of the watch!
It is something I really like by the way. Thanks to the Overseas World Time, I have the feeling to discover again the World Time complication, its busy dial, its central part displaying the Northern Hemisphere and in a more casual atmosphere, it finds a new dimension. Honestly, the visual rendering is totally different from the Patrimony Traditionnelle and I feel a paradox: the Patrimony seemed to me a bit too large and the Overseas gives me the sensation to have the right size while being 1mm larger!
The movement which powers the Overseas World Time is the caliber 2460WT which obviously also animates the Patrimony. It features a 4hz frequency and a power reserve of around 40 hours what is a bit too short comparing to today's standards. The winding mass is decorated with the typical wind rose pattern of the Overseas collection. It is finished with care and without any excessive details what is very positive. On the other hand, the base of the movement is a bit too small for the case and the caliber seems a bit lost when observed from the caseback. Vacheron Constantin communicates about a 36,6mm diameter but in my point of view, it includes the World Time display. So don't expect a visual rendering equivalent to such diameter when you turn over the watch. The great asset of the movement is that it is fully operated with the crown. So forget the Patek style pusher, the case preserves its purety and the watch is nicer without this type of additional excrescence.
Even if the Overseas is not flawless, I consider it as a successful watch. Simply because it manages to combine the prestige of the complication in a more casual atmosphere. And this combo works because the quality of the execution meets the Vacheron standards (don't forget that the watch has a Geneval Seal). I really like the case finishes and even more when the steel bracelet is put. And as usual with any World Time watch, our mind starts to travel... even in Nepal or in Iran thanks to the 37 timezones which also take into accounts the "off-set" ones! The lovely Northern Hemisphere projection in the center of the watch is the perfect companion in our imaginary trip.
The Overseas World Time will be available in a few months and not before the end of the Summer.
Pros:
+ the pleasure to find this complication in a more casual atmosphere
+ a quite slender case (43,5mm diameter and a 12,6mm thickness)
+ the availability in SS with 3 different dial colors
+ the 2 straps and the bracelet which are easy to change
+ the ability to travel to Nepal or to Iran!
Cons:
- a rather short power reserve (40 hours)
- the base of the caliber looks small on the caseback
- the legibility of the 37 zones remains a bit difficult... but it is also a part of the charm of the complication!
This message has been edited by foversta on 2016-05-10 15:39:06