Vacheron Constantin has just presented a new version of the Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in pink gold and blue dial thus forming part of a trend from the manufacture which consists of developing a whole line of Patrimony watches with this combination of colors. Belonging to the Patrimony collection, this watch is the quintessence of the classic perpetual calendar with an usual dial lay-out from Vacheron Constantin: the months and the leap year indicator at the top, the days on the left, the date on the right and the display of moon phases at the base.
As the name suggests it, the watch has a case whose small thickness (9mm) is accentuated by the large diameter (41mm). The watch offers a very slender style and allows the dial to "breathe" well: the displays are clear which is important in the context of a PC display using hands. Personally, I am not an absolute fan of this type of pieces. Simply because for a perpetual calendar watch, the most important display is that of the date itself (let's not forget that the indicators of months, days and years are used primarily to set the watch) and that when this display doesn't appear to be legible, the complication becomes a little futile. The Patrimony PC Ultra-Thin is performing well in this respect and the sub-dials remain legible, except perhaps the month and the leap year one: I have never liked this gathering of 48 months in the upper subdial.
The strength of the watch, however, remains its balanced aesthetic, the quality of the finishes and the beautiful harmony between the color of the dial and the rose gold case and elements. It has a soothing side, having no second hand, nor display of any "fast" complication. There isn't any prominent pusher since they are integrated in the case side (the watch is offered with a pencil). The reflections of the dial are superb and the color of the blue is perfectly balanced, neither too clear nor too dark. The midnight blue is clearly distinguishable and the watch remains very elegant while being far from being black. The advantage of the rather dark color is to reduce the perception of the size and it also gives to this Patrimony a more contemporary touch.
Without any surprise, the watch is animated by the caliber 1120QP which is characterized by its unusual frequency (2,75hz) and obviously, its small thickness (4,05mm), ideal in this context. The presentation of the movement is neat without being superlative. Even if the winding mass is weighed down by the presence of a gold segment, I would have liked a more ambitious work on the rotor. Nevertheless, this more discreet approach corresponds to the spirit of the piece. In any case, I have always liked the way the winding mass surrounds the caliber 1120 and the delicacy of its presentation. However, its power reserve of forty hours is far from current standards and it is rather embarrassing for a perpetual calendar watch.
The Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Plate in pink gold and blue dial is really very comfortable to wear. Its thin case, its slender style and the folding clasp that firmly positions the watch on the wrist contribute to its comfort. The rather large length of the indexes is forgotten and very quickly, I was seduced by the color of the dial and the balance of the lay-out. The watch is certainly not devoid of defects and a technical performance more consistent with what I expect from a perpetual calendar in 2019 would allow it to be more accomplished. Yet it is this "old school" approach, both dial and movement sides that gives it a lot of charm. Finally, it is this version in pink gold and blue dial that I prefer because it has at the same time more punch, energy and modernity than other versions. Please note that the price in France of 80,000 euros including tax is the same as that of other pink gold versions.
Thanks to the team of the Vacheron Constantin boutique in Paris - rue de la Paix.
+ the color of the dial
+ the rigorous and balanced lay-out
+ the quality of the finishes
+ the comfort on the wrist
- the performances of the movement are now outdated
- the upper display, which includes 48 months