image

Vacheron Constantin 222 in Steel 4200H/222A Announcement and First Impressions

patrick_y
Avatar
Moderator Patrick_y shares his impressions on the new Vacheron Constantin 222 in steel.  4200H/222A model.  


none


It's a big day!  Celebrating Vacheron Constantin's 270th anniversary year!  We now have an early announcement starting the first round of celebrations for this anniversary year: a new Vacheron Constantin 222 in steel!  

Do you know how the 222 got its name?  

Designed in 1977, the 222 got its name because it was debuted on the 222 year of Vacheron Constantin's founding in 1755.  Since Vacheron Constantin has been in continuous operation since 1755, it is technically the oldest watch company in the world in continuous operation.  While there are other brands like Blancpain that are older, they have not been in continuous operation.  

In 2022, Vacheron Constantin relaunched the 222!  Another clever choice for the year!  

Year 2025 is now the 270th year of operation for Vacheron Constantin - and kicking off this anniversary year is the latest 222.  

Here are my impressions of the watch.  Don't worry, I'll be fair and you can expect to read compliments and critiques!

none
First!  The looks.  This is a good looking watch and Vacheron Constantin didn't tweak the design too much!  Originally designed by Jorg Hysek, this handsome watch originally had the movement fitted from the front and the bezel and crystal would screw into the watch.  It was an ingenious design that allowed the watch to have 120M water resistance back in 1977!  The bracelet is also constructed much better than the original.  I'd say it's a handsome looking watch and very true to the original 222 from the 1970s and 1980s!  Good job Vacheron Constantin!  The 37mm size might seem a little small on paper, but the watch does wear slightly larger than the size would suggest.  

none
That Vacheron Constantin Maltese Cross logo at 5 o'clock is in gold.  While Hysek's design is mostly brushed, there are some subtle polished surfaces to keep the design interesting.  Here, notice how clean and minimalist the dial is - the lack of a second hand really makes the dial look calmer.  I really like the flat blue, but I also wonder if they'll ever make a grey dial?  The original 222 in the 70s and 80s had grey, white, and black dials.  Notice, no lug holes on this side.  But on the 3 o'clock side of the case, there are lug holes for the bracelet.  

none
The 4200H model has a Geneva Seal on both the movement and on the case/bracelet.  Next to the Swiss Made, you'll notice there's a Vacheron Constantin Cross logo with 270 in the cross.  I do want to point out the taper of the bracelet.  The bracelet tapers from 26mm to 16mm.  That's a strong taper!  The bracelet also doesn't have any summer extension (aka quick adjustment).  


none
Moving on into the engine room.  The original watch came with the famed 1120 movement.  The 1120 movement is a little unusual by today's standards and the Vacheron Constantin 2455 movement has been fitted instead.  The details of this movement are quite nice - especially that special rotor that has the bezel design on it.  The 2455 also has one noted improvement over the 1120 - it has a true quick set date!  The 2455 also has hacking seconds, but considering there is no second hand, this is mostly moot.  If I were to be extremely critical of the movement, I would note one aspect - the short power reserve of 40 hours is unusually low for a modern movement.  But that's okay, it just means you have to wear it more often to keep it wound!  


none
The new watch has the movement loaded through the back - a contrast to the original model that came out in 1977, where the back was welded to the case and the front bezel and crystal were one unit that unscrewed from the case.  The original 222 had 120M water resistance and the new one only has 50M water resistance.  The standards for water resistance have changed the past 50 years, so this is not an apples to apples comparison.  Please feel free to wear your new 222 poolside!  


Reference

4200H/222A-B934

Calibre

2455/2
Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding, 22K 3N yellow gold dedicated oscillating weight
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)
194 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes
Date

Case
Stainless steel
37 mm diameter, 7.95 mm thick
18K yellow gold Maltese cross placed at 5 o'clock
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback           
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 5 bar (approx. 50 metres)

Dial
Blue
White gold polished Maltese cross applied to the dial
White gold hour-markers and hands highlighted with Super-LumiNova® (off-white during the day and lime green at night)                                                      

Bracelet
Stainless steel, vertical satin finished

Buckle
Stainless steel triple-blade folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques







none
One of our esteemed moderators ha owned an original 222 in steel for many many years.  He's known to have excellent taste and he seems to like them!  


Priced at a very reasonable $32,000.00 USD without tax and around 35.000 Euros, this watch is a great watch in the competitive landscape.  But it will be very difficult to obtain.  It's a very handsome watch on my wrist!  But without a doubt, it will be difficult to obtain!  Perfection takes a long time to make!  

Comments:
Avatar
orahu January 13th, 2025-22:50
Thank you, Patrick. Well done! I have been reading everything that pops up today on watch sites; glad for your contribution. I really like the look! 
Avatar
patrick_y January 13th, 2025-23:12
Thank you for reading! I read the other ones and they all didn't have the technical details and the heritage details I was looking for. So I decided we had to have our own on WPS!
Avatar
cazalea January 13th, 2025-22:51
I had this watch for a few months (babysitting it for a friend) and regret not buying it  ... 
Avatar
patrick_y January 13th, 2025-23:12
OOooh la la! I'd dog-sit that watch too! Very cool! Thanks for sharing the all important bezel removal shot! Are the gaskets between bezel and case standard sized or special sized?
Avatar
cazalea January 14th, 2025-00:48
I think they are standard; I had them in my 5-million O-Ring starter kit  ... 
Avatar
patrick_y January 14th, 2025-00:51
Good to know!!! 
Avatar
cazalea January 14th, 2025-00:53
Here’s how the split-stem crown came out You couldn’t access the back to release the stem, so this 2-part item is released by prying with tweezers Then the movement can be lifted out after the front is unscrewed. Note the dirty bracelet before it was cleaned. Mike ... 
Avatar
ChristianDK January 14th, 2025-07:27
Mike you are a proficient multipotentialite Is there anything you are not good at because I can’t think of it. Amazing!
Avatar
SingaporeMarc January 15th, 2025-09:13
Yummy 2-tone original 222 jumbo What’s the dial size please? 🤝
Avatar
InHavenPro January 13th, 2025-22:54
It's a truly superb timepiece. VC is doing particularly good stuff in recent years, let's see if Monsieur Jerome Lambert can 'resurrect' JLC to its former glory, and in doing so make the landscape so much more interesting and compelling....
0-10-10

Load More Comments




 Next Article
image
patrick_y
Avatar

Vacheron Constantin 222 Dreaming...

patrick_y
Avatar
If one were to dream of a Vacheron Constantin... What would you dream of? I'd dream of a 222 in steel, blue dial. Maybe 37-40mm in diameter. With a high quality Geneva Seal movement inside.


Go to top.

About US | Contact

© 2017 - WatchProZine