Angular Momentum: Inside Martin Pauli's Workshop
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Angular Momentum: Inside Martin Pauli's Workshop

By DonCorson · May 20, 2012 · 17 replies
DonCorson
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DonCorson's visit to Angular Momentum - Manu Propria offers an intimate look into the workshop of Martin Pauli, a true independent watchmaker. This article highlights Pauli's dedication to traditional craftsmanship, showcasing his one-man operation where cases are hand-turned and various crafts are mastered. It provides a rare glimpse into a workshop devoid of CNC machinery, emphasizing the human touch in every unique timepiece.

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A visit to Angular Momentum - Manu Propria  by Don Corson, May 2012

Seeing the inventiveness and production of Angular Momentum - Manu Propria it is hard to believe that this really is a one man shop... all the work of Mr. Martin Pauli.  As the name says, the work of his own hands.  We will take a look at his shop, some of the different crafts that Martin uses and a selection of his finished watches.  I think you will be just as amazed at everything that Martin does as I am.  Note that Martin uses NOS movements for his watches, of which he has a big stock.  The movements are mostly from Schild and Fontainmelon, in the days before ETA bought up all the movement manufacturers.

The Workshop
The Angular Momentum - Manu Propria workshop is on one floor of this building in Itingen near Bern, the Pulverfabrik, originally built as a gun powder factory. Built into the side of a hill the means of entry to the factory is a cable car.









From the open cable car we can look right into the shop, fourth floor left.

As one would imagine in a shop where they do everything themselves Martin’s shop is well equipped.  And note that there are no signs of CNC anywhere.  Each case made is unique.

The Schaublin 102 lathe on which all of Martin’s steel cases are turned by hand.











The milling machine from Aciera


A circular saw for cutting metal bar stock.


Cabinets full of tools


















A press for stamping






Earlier much jewelry was made by stamping.  In this way thin forms could be formed which made stable structures while using relatively little gold.






Some stamps for making jewelry.  Martin purchased this whole stock of tools when a jeweler went out of business.





Steel bar stock.




A drawer full of steel stock cut to length in preparation for making cases.


An old roll press.









One of the decorative techniques in which Martin produces a lot of work is the Japanese art of Urushi lacquer.  Here we see Martin opening his Urushi drying cabinet.  Urushi needs very exact temperature and humidity to harden properly.  These conditions are maintained in the drying cabinets.





Series of Urushi work in progress in the hardening cabinet.

Japanese Urushi is harvested from tree resins and is a very aggressive material.  If you get it on your skin and don’t wash it off quickly it leaves painful burns.






Martin has all kinds of lacquers and all the other accessories necessary for Urushi work.  A single dial can need up to 60 layers of lacquer, each one needing to dry before the next step can be done.


At any one time Martin has a whole series of dials in work, each one different.

Here we see the watchmaking bench.  Martin does a complete service of all the movements he uses before they leave his shop.  The movements are all NOS, new old stock, and mostly made in the ‘60s and ‘70s of the last century.  As such, although they are new, they do really need some TLC, cleaning and oiling to get back up to speed again.

Martin also does some restoration and repairs.

For regulation a nice old Vibrograph, still working perfectly.  The tubes are all still available if necessary.


A good old school movement cleaning machine.

To continue with part 2 click here

This message has been edited by DonCorson on 2012-05-20 10:26:29

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The Discussion
DO
DonCorson
May 20, 2012

Angular Momentum - Manu Propria: The Crafts In the first installment we have seen some of Martins equipment for doing Urushi work. We will now continue with some of the other crafts that he has mastered. First a look at the jeweler’s bench and the piles of hand tools. Abalone shell, horn and bones for special projects. Dials are printed on a dial printers transfer printing machine. On the right is the engraved steel cliché, on the left a fixture to hold the dials to be printed using v

DO
DonCorson
May 20, 2012

Angular Momentum - Manu Propria: The Watches We have taken a look around Martin’s workshop and seen many of the crafts that he uses making his watches and cases. Martin makes what is known in French as the “habillage” of the watch, literally its clothing. The movements he uses are NOS (New Old Stock) movements mostly from the 1960’s and 1970’s of which he has a large stock. This was the heyday of mechanical watch movement making and before the consolidation of the movement makers who were eventu

4J
4Js
May 20, 2012

A lot of hard work here. How does one see and buy these beauties? Best, Joe

SJ
SJX
May 20, 2012

I am not sure about small manufacturers being vertically integrated because I feel they can never truly master the art as a specialist can. So while it is admirable that Mr Pauli can make practically all of the external components himself, they don't seem to be of the same standard as those make by specialists. - SJX

IN
info91
May 21, 2012

It was my very pleasure to welcome Don to my atelier, to show him around and to have an interesting conversation on watches in general. To respond to SJX's comment: When it comes to watch case making its obvious that hand made watch cases cannot compete with fully automated watch case production in so far that complex shapes, developed by CAD and executed by CNC machnes, finalized by finishing robots cannot be made. But on my opinion, a watch case milled and turned and polished by hand has its o

CA
cazalea
May 21, 2012

Thanks very much. I want several ... Cazalea

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