Audemars Piguet 2012 Collection Paris Boutique
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Audemars Piguet 2012 Collection Paris Boutique

By foversta · Mar 3, 2012 · 26 replies
foversta
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Foversta's report from the Audemars Piguet Paris Boutique's 2012 collection presentation offers an exclusive first look at key new releases and updates. The post provides critical insights into models like the new forged carbon Diver, the Tour Auto watch, and the updated Royal Oak 15202 and Chronograph 26320. This detailed account captures initial collector reactions and design observations, making it a valuable resource for understanding AP's direction in 2012.

A few days ago the AP Boutique in Paris organized a cocktail to present some pieces of the 2012 collection. Sadly, we couldn't see the skeletonized watches created to celebrate the 40th Anniversary of the Royal Oak but we got a good overview of the collection.

And, good news for me, I was able to discover two watches I missed in Geneva.

I propose to start the report with these two ones as I already did a comprehensive report of the AP presentation at the SIHH.

These two watches are:

- a new version of the Diver with forged carbon case and ceramic bezel. The watch uses the same movement than the "classic" Diver (3120) and has the same size. But the appearance of the case and the choice of colours (a mix of black and yellow, some may say that we find again IWS colours...) make it more sportive than the other version. I can't give you a precise date of release. But don't expect it before the end of the year or beginning of 2013. Yes, I know, it will be very long wait but production will be limited. I was quite seduced by its "wild" design and forged carbon works pretty well in this context.













- the 2012 Tour Auto watch. After the Millenary in 2011, the Royal Oak Offshore is back as a base for the Tour Auto watch. Obviously, we find again the classic Tour Auto colours with a subtle touch of red. I prefer the dial of the 2010 version even if this one is very decent.
















Let's browse now some watches I already presented you.

The star of the show was the new 15202. Some guests who discovered it for the first time appreciated the dial layout and the comfort of the new folding clasp. The new style of the rotor provokes mixed emotions.









A guest was wearing his 15202 and he could compare them.

I'm not a great fan of  the black date disk which seems to lead to a better integration of the window on the dial. But I also understand that the contrast between the date and the dial was a part of the charm of the previous 15202. And when you closely look at the dial, there is a little something between black and blue which doesn't match at 100%.



The new Royal Oak Chronograph (aka ref 26320) is a bit too large for my taste even if I like the work on the indexes and the faceted hands. But it lost a part of its elegance in my point of view (look at the position of the date window). Caliber remains FP 1185 of course.








The date window is too close to the subdials (or too far from the bezel if you prefer...). The indexes do their job properly to reduce the feeling of size but can't hide the position of the window.



It is a bit the same story with the 15400. But on the other hand, the enlarged case is visually more slender than 15300 one which is an excellent improvement.

More than any other one, it is a watch to be tested. In a pure feeling of size, the watch looks smaller than its 41mm diameter due to the thick bezel. But the case by itself is big and needs to be worn to be sure that comfort on the wrist ise fine. Date window position is not shocking with the 15400.




I also had the opportunity to wear one of my fav 2011 novelties, the Millenary 4101. Question is: how long will I resist? Each time I put it on my wrist, my resistance becomes weaker and weaker.





A few pics of the friendly atmosphere of the event:







We always appreciate to see the watchmaker at work:



I would like to finish the report with a special wristshot. Yes, it is not that easy to wear this gold Jumbo but believe me, the combo between gold and blue dial is gorgeous. A perfect watch with tanned skin!

 



I would like to thank a lot the AP France team for the warm welcome and the perfect orgaznization of this event.

Fx

PS: if you want to see more pics of some of these watches, please click on the link below to reach my report of the AP presentation at 2012 SIHH:
ap.watchprosite.com

About the Audemars Piguet Ref. 15400

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 15400 represents a pivotal moment in the iconic collection s evolution, introduced in 2012 as the successor to the beloved 15300. This reference marked the transition to a larger 41mm case size while maintaining the essential design DNA established by Gérald Genta s revolutionary 1972 original. The 15400 served as the flagship time-only Royal Oak for nearly a decade, embodying the perfect balance between contemporary sizing preferences and the model s legendary octagonal architecture. Its significance lies in bridging the gap between vintage proportions and modern wrist presence, making it highly sought after by collectors who appreciate both heritage and wearability.

At the heart of the 15400 beats the manufacture Caliber 3120, a self-winding movement that showcases Audemars Piguet s horological mastery through its 22k gold rotor and 60-hour power reserve. This robust caliber features a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and incorporates the brand s commitment to finishing excellence, visible through the sapphire caseback with its Geneva stripes, circular graining, and beveled edges. The movement s architecture reflects decades of refinement, delivering reliable timekeeping while maintaining the slim profile essential to the Royal Oak s elegant proportions.

The 15400 s design epitomizes the Royal Oak s distinctive aesthetic codes: the integrated steel bracelet with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, the iconic octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal screws, and the Grande Tapisserie decorated dial that creates mesmerizing light play. The silver dial variant particularly exemplifies the model s versatility, offering a refined backdrop for the applied hour markers and Royal Oak hands. From a collectibility standpoint, the 15400 has achieved significant recognition as the last generation of the 41mm time-only Royal Oak before the introduction of the current 15500, positioning it as a modern classic that captures both the model s evolutionary peak and its enduring appeal among discerning collectors.

Specifications

Caliber
Cal.3120
Case
steel
Diameter
41mm
Dial
silver
Water Resist.
50m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
CH
chaser579
Mar 3, 2012

Yes, some of the most attractive and beautiful watches in the world, hands down (how do you spell L-U-S-T?!). Sorry Hublot, Omega and Rolex. Anyway, thanks, HAGWE!

KI
KIH
Mar 3, 2012

.. also, new Diver looks interesting, too. I am looking forward to meeting them in person someday.... Best, Ken

MJ
mjnoumoff
Mar 3, 2012

thanks for the report...very nice!!

SA
SALMANPK
Mar 3, 2012

I agree with you on the Gold Jumbo, the Blue and the Bronzish hue of the Gold is an excellent combination. Thank You S

BI
Bill
Mar 3, 2012

I am a little torn with some of the comments as the AP at 6 as you is one I have my eye on. I need to see this one in person. But now you have also given me more ideas. Thanks Bill

GR
grigo
Mar 3, 2012

I already like the Diver, but I must admit the new forged carbon case really gives it a lot of distinction. Best regards, George

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