Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked 15204OR
Review

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked 15204OR

By MichaelC · Jun 9, 2014 · 20 replies
MichaelC
WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum
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MichaelC provides an in-depth look at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin in pink gold, reference 15204OR. He highlights its distinctive features and contrasts it with previous openworked Royal Oak models, offering a collector's perspective on its aesthetic and technical merits.

One of Audemars Piguet's newest watches from SIHH 2014 that we have not discussed much is the Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin in 18-carat pink gold.  I was fortunate enough to handle this new Royal Oak recently and it is astounding.  Let's have a closer look at this watch, AP reference number 15204OR.OO.1240OR.01.

You will recall of course that 2012 marked the 40th anniversary of the iconic Royal Oak.  To commemorate the significant event, AP launched a few special editions in addition to the other "new" Royal Oaks that we are now accustomed to.  One of those limited versions was a 40 piece platinum cased openworked watch.  Here is a great photo of that piece from Fx:





In January of this year, Audemars Piguet launched an unlimited version with the same openworked movement in an 18-carat pink gold case.  Of course, we can anticipate that this watch will be made in extremely small quantities, so while technically not capped at a certain number, I expect it will remain rare.





Needless to say, the pink gold really contrasts well with the grey colored movement, which AP refers to as having a "galvanic anthracite treatment".  The famous Royal Oak case becomes a wonderful frame for a very artistic movement.





And in turn, the openworked center provides additional emphasis on the octagonal case.





From the side, you can really discern the flowing form of the grey "dial" area, which sits level with the outer time ring.





We do not see through this watch as much as some other openworked pieces.  This attribute is significant, and I'll come back to it shortly.  The date disc is transparent, and rotates through the window at 3:00 for reading.





The movement is the Calibre 5122, a skeletonized version of the famous Calibre 2121.  The movement thickness is a mere 3.05mm!





The gold rotor is the same as used on the current 15202 Royal Oak Extra-Thin.





On the wrist... wow, what can be said?  This watch is amazing.

I am a very big fan of the popular Royal Oak 15305 Openworked watch, but I have always had one hesitation about it.  That watch is quite a bit more open than this extra-thin version, and consequently you see through to the wrist more.  Many will not have an issue with this trait, but personally, I like to look at my watch and not through it.  So the opaque quality of this reference 15204 suits my tastes much more.  Also, the openworked design is a bit more contemporary and less industrial than the 15305.





Of course, this is a very expensive timepiece.  But I really feel it is worth it.  My visit to the boutique was primarily related to reporting on the 42mm Royal Oak Offshore collection, which we have done extensively.  But the single AP that stole my heart during my time was this exceptional Royal Oak.  Previously, I would not have considered wearing a colored gold bracelet watch.  The 18-carat pink gold Openworked Extra-Thin has fully changed my mind, and if I can ever afford it, I will own this watch.

About the Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202 YG Ref. 15202

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" ref. 15202 is a significant reference within the Royal Oak collection, known for its close adherence to the original 1972 design. It maintains the distinctive slim profile and integrated bracelet that defined the initial Royal Oak, distinguishing it from other Royal Oak models that introduced different sizes or complications. This reference is particularly valued for its historical continuity and minimalist approach to the Royal Oak aesthetic.

This reference features a 39mm case, typically crafted from yellow gold, with a thickness of 8.1mm. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal and offers a water resistance of 50 meters. Powering the watch is the self-winding Caliber 2121, a movement known for its slimness and a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The dial is presented in blue, complementing the yellow gold case and bracelet.

For collectors, the 15202 represents a direct link to the Royal Oak's origins, appealing to those who prioritize historical accuracy and understated design. Its production run from 2012 to 2019 makes it a sought-after reference among enthusiasts of the "Jumbo" lineage. The combination of its classic dimensions, integrated bracelet, and the Caliber 2121 solidifies its position as a key reference in the Audemars Piguet catalog.

Specifications

Caliber
Cal.2121
Case
yellow gold
Diameter
39mm
Dial
Blue
Water Resist.
50m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
SA
SALMANPK
Jun 9, 2014

Like yourself I also love this watch, its so elegant and well finished. S

AM
amanico
Jun 9, 2014

But I agree that a skeleton Royal Oak is something to see! Thanks for the nice report, my friend. Best, Nicolas

SA
SALMANPK
Jun 9, 2014

the case size is 40mm yes?

MI
MichaelC
Jun 9, 2014

is the openworked movement inside the case I am so familiar with.

MI
MichaelC
Jun 9, 2014

For a moment I thought I accidentally listed it as 40mm. Thanks, Nicolas.

GE
gensiulia
Jun 9, 2014

...but date wheel is really something! awesome watch. best, chris

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