New Release
Mach, a dedicated pilot's watch enthusiast and long-time Breguet admirer, shares his candid, in-the-flesh impressions of the highly anticipated new Breguet Type XX and Type 20. His initial disappointment, formed from online images, evolved into a nuanced critique after a hands-on experience, offering a valuable perspective for collectors considering these new references. Mach's detailed observations regarding wearability, dial aesthetics, and case design provide essential insights for potential buyers and brand enthusiasts alike.
But I was immediately disappointed by both these releases. As a huge fan of pilot’s watches, I’ve been anxiously awaiting this release. I was excited and had extremely high expectations that a Type XX would finally join my collection, especially after the Type XX Only Watch 2019 and Type XX Only Watch 2021. But talk about a letdown. That’s on me. I take full responsibility and this is a great lesson learned!
I’ve been “networking” with the NYC Boutique for the past few years expressing my desires and hopes for a new Type XX. Not long after I finally saw the new releases, I emailed my contact and said, “Unfortunately, these are both a ‘No’ for me. I can definitely state that without having to see them in the flesh. Hopefully, they will release an option for enthusiasts. But thank you anyways, my friend!”
Well, on Sunday, my local AD actually had the Type XX in the display case. I asked the SA if I could take a look and he responded, “We have the new Type XX? Are you sure that’s what you are looking at?” 😂🤣😂 Apologies, the plastic is still on combine with the lighting:
Over on Hodinkee, Mark Kauzlarich interviewed Lionel a Marca, CEO of Breguet, regarding the date function, "If I hadn't included the calendar, some would've asked for one. You can never make everyone happy. We are living now in the 21st century, and given the current trends, a watch that doesn't feature a calendar wouldn't really be appreciated by the clients. So it's almost a necessity today. But if I wanted to do an exact replica of the original watch, it also wouldn't have been an automatic, it would have been manual."
Where is he getting this information from? Who do they select to participate in surveys? Do they exclude enthusiasts from these surveys? Are they outsourcing this to market research firms? If so, Breguet should ask for their money back!
I was not only able to actually see it in the metal, but I could have actually purchased that piece and walked out the door with it on my wrist. Think about that for just a minute. We’re still in this stainless steel craze. Laughing out loud, I looked at the SA and stated, “We both know Breguet executed this poorly. If this was executed correctly, you would not have this here on display and you would have responded to my request for one with the usual, ‘Let me take down your information and add you to the list.’” There’s something wrong here.
Going back to the date, I’m not one who will refuse a watch simply because it has a date. I have many pieces with the date function. Although I would prefer these without a date, I would have accepted if the date was executed at 6 o’clock, which they have done previously. But not only does this date “look off,” especially on the Type 20, they also appear to have forgotten “Swiss Made,” which make it look like and afterthought at 4:30:
Another thing to consider is that Breguet went through the effort to release the Type XX and the Type 20. This presented a great opportunity by catering to the enthusiasts by giving us at least one without a date? I’m biased of course, but the Type 20 would have a great piece to execute without a date. Yes, they will never make everyone happy. But can they at least make an effort?
Then, speaking of Hodinkee, take a look at this screen shot:
Breguet is paying advertising fees to market the Type XX. I don’t recall Chopard advertising this new Alpine Eagle 41 XPS or L.U.C 1860. I don’t believe either brand is well known outside of the enthusiast community. And look at what Chopard did with respect to the L.U.C 1860. They have a history of including the date in a few editions with the date at 6 o’clock, yet they decided to execute this stunning beauty without a date! That must be why it received such a poor reception from Watches & Wonders 2023! 😉
Well, it looks like we’re back where we started. I strongly believe that they will get this right eventually. Hopefully, it won’t take another four years. I would like to think in less than a year they will release some pieces for their enthusiasts that love the brand and the Type XX. There I go again talking about things outside of my control and setting myself up for great disappointment! 😂🤣😂
Rant over! Good night! Stay safe!🥂
Best,
Mark
The L.U.C 1860 reference is a notable offering within the L.U.C collection, distinguished by its focus on classical watchmaking principles and refined aesthetics. This particular model, introduced at Watches and Wonders 2023, represents a continuation of Chopard's commitment to high horology, emphasizing traditional craftsmanship and a discreet presentation. It is recognized for its balanced proportions and the integration of a finely finished movement, reflecting the brand's in-house manufacturing capabilities.
This reference features a case crafted from Lucent Steel, a proprietary alloy, measuring 36.5 mm in diameter. The watch is powered by the L.U.C 96.01-L automatic movement, which is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. This movement is equipped with a micro-rotor and offers a power reserve of approximately 65 hours. The dial is presented in a salmon color, complemented by a sapphire crystal on the front.
Appealing to collectors who value understated design and mechanical integrity, the L.U.C 1860 fits into the brand's lineup as a dress watch with significant horological merit. Its limited production and specific material choices contribute to its appeal among enthusiasts seeking a watch that combines traditional watchmaking with contemporary material science. The model is a testament to Chopard's ongoing development in its L.U.C range.
I could've made this post myself, I'm so baffled that brands are so misinformed about their clients. Who's a potential buyer of a Breguet Type XX/20 if not the enthusiast? And to make things even worse, they had it right with the "Only Watch". Is like they purposely decided to screw up!
I’m honoured for the shout out re the strap! I think you make really good points, not just about the date that everyone is complaining about, but also about the way the dial is balanced. Or, more correctly, not balanced. And the way the case fits on the wrist (although I haven’t yet seen this one in the metal). Maybe someone will explain to me that the movement is indeed correctly sized for the dial and the case; but to my eyes, the whole thing is wrong, the fundamental problem being that the di
It was a tough mission to disappoint the collector's world. They succeeded. I always wonder who's buying any Breguet from their current catalogue...
The watches look better in the videos I have seen of them. In the comments to the WatchAdvisor video the host, Alexander, says that they will release a version without the date. Personally I like a date on watches but the implementation here does not look very attractive to my eye. All the best, Jon
But in the end vote with your wallet, I just took my hard earned money to another brand.
And I dislike a lot of them! 😁 And: as we all know, there is no arguing about taste. Yesterday I had the opportunity to examine both watches, just behind the display of our Breguet shop (it was evening and after opening hours). Both models were excellently presented and really good to look at. There are (for me!) so many - yes - design mistakes made here that I don't even know where to start. In short: I've had problems with the current Marine series. Keyword: Roman Numerals or those number pads
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