Bulgari Calibre 168 In-House Movement — WatchProSite Forum Digest

pingtsai · 2012-09-11T21:45:37Z

Explore Bulgari's in-house Calibre 168 movement: technical specs, finishing, and its role in the Sotirio Bulgari Collection. See new pictures.

pingtsai

WPS member · Bulgari forum

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pingtsai's post introduces new images and details of Bulgari's Calibre 168, the brand's first in-house mechanical self-winding movement. Launched at Baselworld 2010, this caliber powers watches in the Sotirio Bulgari Collection, marking a significant milestone in the brand's vertical integration strategy. The post highlights the movement's sophisticated finishing and technical characteristics.

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CALIBRE 168

New pictures of Bulgari's first in-house movement, CALIBRE 168, a mechanical self-winding base movement entirely designed, developed and produced in-house. It was launched at Baselworld 2010 and now powers watches in the Sotirio Bulgari Collection.

Calibre 168 has represented the culmination of a lengthy verticalization process that has led the brand throughout the past decade to progressively establish and build an integrated manufacturing division. In these new pictures, we can get a better view of the sophisticated finishing that includes Côtes de Genève motif and a circular-grained mainplate, highlighted by the exquisitely crafted bidirectional oscillating weight.

POWERFUL TORQUE

In addition to the powerful torque with which it is possesses, Calibre168– which powers the Sotirio Bulgari line–features an instant-jump central date indication. Its other main characteristics include optimal recharging of the mainspring energy supply thanks to its bidirectional oscillating weight and winding system. Calibre 168 is equipped with a disconnecting-gear device for the automatic-winding system during manual winding. It optimises winding of the barrel via the crown and thus avoids any risk of premature wear of the automatic-winding gear train.

The construction of Calibre 168 also had to meet a set of technical constraints with a
few to future developments. These include a cross-through balance bridge endowing the regulating organ with sufficient rigidity to guarantee rating stability, while the main plate and bridges are machined from nickel silver, a metal alloy typical of high-end mechanical movements and which is complex to work with yet ensures impressive overall sturdiness and rigidity of the movement structure.

CALIBRE BVL 168 – TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Description                   BVL168, mechanical self-winding Calibre; 168parts
Diameter                      11.5 lignes
Display                         Hours, minutes, seconds, instant-jump central date
Dimensions                   Ø Casing diameter: 25.60mm– Total thickness: 4.75mm
Jewelling                      25 jewels
Power reserve              42 hours
Frequency                    4Hz – 28,800v/h
Winding                        Via a bidirectional oscillating weight
Balance                        Glucydur – 3 spokes
Adjustment                   by micrometrical screws (fine adjustment)
Bridges                         Barrel & geartrain: all of a piece construction(¾bridge);
                                     balance: cross-through type
Mainplate & bridges       Nickelsilver
Oscillating weight          Bimetallic
Main plate                     Adorned circular graining
Lever bridge                 Circular grained
¾Vbridge                      Côtes de Genève
Bridge rim                     Bevelled
Bridge bevel                  Diamond-polished
Central date plate          Snailed circular graining
Barrel                            Snailed drum
Oscillating weight           Nickelsilver, dedicated Sotirio Bulgari cut-out, straight satin-
                                     brushed flange, sun burst satin-brushed heavy segment

This message has been edited by pingtsai on 2012-09-11 21:50:05

Key Points from the Discussion

The Calibre 168's instant-jump central date, though often unnoticed, is a distinctive feature of the movement.
The jumping date along the perimeter is an attractive detail of watches featuring the Calibre 168 movement.
The use of nickel silver (German silver) for the main plate and bridges in Calibre 168 is a notable detail, indicating a commitment to high-end mechanical movement construction.
While many new in-house movements extend power reserve beyond 42 hours, the Calibre 168's power reserve is considered acceptable, and anticipation for new watches with this movement is high.
Despite initial underwhelming press photos, the Calibre 168 movement appears very solid, though the rotor's aesthetics could be improved.
A question was raised regarding the practical application and necessity of the "powerful torque" feature in the Calibre 168.

The Discussion

patrick_y

Sep 11, 2012

A nice movement with German Silver parts!

Didn't know that the Bulgari 168 utilized German silver parts! Thanks for the information! And I wonder what kind of useful and interesting complications will be modulated to this movement in the future!

KIH

Sep 12, 2012

Looks really a serious movement...

.. with beautiful design. Would love to meet in person with casing one day..... Ken

MichaelC

Sep 12, 2012

Looks like a solid, straight forward movement.

Most new in house movements being introduced by other brands seem to be extending the power reserve past 42 hours, but I think this is perfectly acceptable. Looking forward to new watches with this motor.

MTF

Sep 13, 2012

They are not showing the unseen front

ping, Thanks for the update. I remember the few celebratory watches for Sotirio Bulgari's anniversary but not many watches use this movement ....yet. The usually unseen front of the movement is under the dial and there is the feature described in the technical specifications with just 4 words..."instant-jump central date"....not a lot of people notice that......hmm :-) Regards, MTF

pingtsai

Sep 15, 2012

Here are some pictures of the watches.

Here are some of the watches that have the Caliber 168 movement. Yes, the jumping date is along the perimeter which imo, is an attractive detail of the watch.

AnthonyTsai

Sep 13, 2012

Much better pictures than the original ones. I like the rotor a lot! [nt]

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