Bulgari Daniel Roth Tourbillon 8 Jours

Looking over Bulgari’s current watch releases I noticed a watch that I recognized and remember seeing once before in a Basel highlighted photo. There wasn't an official press release for the watch or much talk or discussion pertaining to it. It seemed to have flown under the radar so to speak and stepped aside for other more popular models such as the Endurer Chronosprint and Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar. Even the Daniel Roth Lumiere and Papillon Chronograph received more attention. I decided to take this chance to bring more light to an equally interesting watch that deserves to be talked about. The Daniel Roth Toubillon 8 Jours has the technical sophistication that we have come to expect from the respected name and synonymous with all the watches in the line.

Since Bulgari has taken Daniel Roth under its wing, many of the Daniel Roth watches have undergone makeovers, allowing them to better fit in with Bulgari’s style and image. To me, the style change of each watch has been more an integration as opposed to a transformation. The essence of the original watch is still present but the slight enhancements and alterations make for designs that are more updated and streamlined. The Daniel Tourbillon 8 Jours is no different. Bulgari has managed to modernize the look of the dial while still keeping much of the original details.

 

The Tourbillon 8 Jours consists of the signature shaped Daniel Roth case in polished 18 kt white gold with a flip open caseback which displays the movement through the sapphire crystal when opened. What is unique about the “flip over” case is that the solid part stays attached to the lugs and the entire case flips up while still hinged to the top lugs, displaying the movement through the back. There is a small button latch that releases the case allowing it to flip up. Usually with watches that have hunter caseback covers, the cover itself is hinged and flips open and the case remains attached to the lugs. It’s a novel feature to show off on top of the already impressive movement.

 

The size of the watch measures 43mm in diameter width. Bulgari has given the dial a more modern look by segmenting it with different color variations and creating shapes. The most noticeable change is with the hour markers which were originally Roman numerals. On Bulgari’s they are simplified as simple batons that radiate out from the top central portion of the dial. The markers get longer as they get further away from the 12 o’clock marker. The 12 o’clock hour marker is the only Roman numeral that was kept however the font is a simpler more modern one to coincide with the straight baton markers.

 

The bright blue hour, minute and date hands contrast nicely with the neutral colors on the rest of the dial. Blue was a good choice because it is masculine, regal and provides tremendous character to the watch as a whole with not a great amount of color used. The blue gives the watch the added pop of color that easily reaches out and grabs the attention of the wearer. 

 

The movement is beautifully and uniquely displayed through the sapphire caseback by flipping the case up. The watch has 8 days power reserve and date indicators on the back. The movement is consists of the finest in hand crafted perlage and Côtes de Genève finishing. The tourbillon is the ultimate in watch complications but this one is even more intricate with many of the functions of the watch layered in between the upper and lower plates. The going train and spring barrels can be found between the two plates which are each visible from either the time side of the dial or date and power reserve side. The two spring barrels allow for 192 hours of reserved power function.

 

Bulgari’s version of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon 8 Jours is styled in such a way that their customers will appreciate and hopefully they will be impressed by the movement and case design as well. The Roman numerals on the original model gave it a more classic traditional look whereas the baton markers and color blocking allow the new version to be more current to their clientele. It is actually nice to have two different versions of the same watch, a traditional one and a modern one. Depending on one’s mood, attire or environment one may be more appropriate than the other. One can say it’s the best of both worlds.  

 

Case: 18-carat white gold, diameter 43mm, height 12.90mm, sapphire crystal to front and case back

Functions: Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, date, power reserve, Tourbillon

 

Movement: Calibre DR5300

 

Calibre: Manual Wound, 21,600 vph (3 Hz), 25 Jewels, Power reserve 192 hours, Côtes de Genève, perlage, decorated by hand with guilloché treatment and chamfering finish, in-house manufactured movement.

 

Strap: Black alligator leather with 18-carat white gold ardillon buckle.