Bulgari Daniel Roth Tourbillon Lumière Platine

Pingtsai presents an appreciative look at the Bulgari Daniel Roth Tourbillon Lumière Platine, highlighting its intricate skeletonized design. This article explores why this platinum variant stands out as a 'daydreamer's watch,' emphasizing its sculptural qualities and the visual allure of its exposed movement.

Bulgari Daniel Roth Tourbillon Lumière Platine

Quite possibly the most beautiful watch in Bulgari’s repertoire of timepieces may be the lacy and elegant Daniel Roth Tourbillon Lumière. Very closely adapted from the original, the new version is virtually identical incorporating Bulgari’s stamp of acceptance on the face. The rose gold version appears to be more widespread in its presence. However the platinum variant is equally if not more commanding in its gleaming appearance. The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Lumière Platine can easily be any collector’s dream watch. Simply speaking it’s a piece to ogle over and visually lose your thoughts in all the curved lines and spaces.

The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Lumière Platine is a “daydreamer’s watch” in every sense. From the coolness of the colors and the intricacies of the arches to the mystery in the curves and the reflections in the finish, the Lumière is everything that can inspire the imagination and tantalize the soul. On the wrist it dances in decoration and  makes plays on light. This watch resembles more a sculpture and a piece of art than a machine. But it possesses the unlikelihood of achieving the pinnacle of both.

The Beauty of a Skeleton

When I first began writing about watches I thought that skeletonized watches were pretty special. That sentiment hasn’t changed over the years. The range of skeletonization has widned though and only a limited portion will render true appeal because not all skeletonized watches are created equal.  Not all are equally special. There is little doubt regardless that there is something about these watches that excites the visual spirit. Perhaps it’s being able to see the “heart” of the watch and all the working, moving parts which give it life, almost like the excitement of seeing a Ferrari engine through its clear cover. Maybe skeletonized watches are still novel enough in mainstream markets and still uncommon enough within watch communities that they stand out.

“A skeleton watch is a mechanical watch (although occasionally quartz), in which all of the moving parts are visible through either the front of the watch, the back of the watch or a small cut outlining the dial.” – Wikipedia definition

Two of the most famous and iconic skeletonized watches may be Breguet’s La Tradition and the Ulysses Nardin Freak. These watches are individually distinctive, well balanced and visually stunning. And we simply cannot discuss skeletonized watches without mentioning the signature skeletonized look of Richard Mille watches. Whether the look is traditional as in the Breguet or contemporary with the Freak and RM watches, the design aspect can be a versatile tool that has tremendous impact and leaves a lasting impression with spectators.

The Lumière Platine

Perhaps one of the most beautiful skeleton watches on the market today is the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Lumière. Skeletonized watches are already pretty unique to begin with. With the signature case shape of Daniel Roth watches to frame the open movement, the Lumière stands at a whole other level of exquisiteness.   

The Tourbillon Lumière in rose gold was first introduced to the public in 2007. The platinum version was released two years later in late 2009 just a few months prior to Bulgari’s acquisition of the Daniel Roth brand. The Lumière Platine was then re-released recently under the Bulgari brand baring few changes except for the name change at the top of the blue horseshoe arch on the dial. Many of the other Daniel Roth watches underwent makeovers following the integration of the brands. The Lumière is one of the few models that managed somehow to have escaped design revision. It is with good reason though since the original design was flawless to begin with.

The Lumière Platine’s design boasts a masterful play on light and weight. An inner contrast is evident between the heaviness of the platinum metal and the lightness and delicacy of the mechanism that powers it. Each enhances the effect of the other culminating in a gleaming presence of perfect artistic and structural complement. The bright blue horseshoe shaped arch and serpentine hands on the dial also adds another element of contrast against the cool silver-toned movement and a slight whimsical character as well. 

Movement

The wonder in the movement which powers the Lumière Platine is how the designers have managed to find the ideal balance between optimal functionality and aesthetic beauty. In order to find the balance, they had to determine the precise amount of metal to use. The end result is an elegant and graceful movement that is made up of various components that are each carefully finished and decorated by hand. Meticulously hand-crafted, some will consider the Lumière, “…one of the most delicate tourbillon movements ever made.”

The extreme refinement in movement finishing is evident in the satin brushed surface of all the openworked bridges, sapphire-blasted main-plates and the hand finishing of the screws. The

Some indication of hour markers is provided on the blue stainless steel semi-ringed arch in the form of silver dots, matching the whimsical wavy hands.

The Calibre DR780 Tourbillon Skeleton movement is visible through the front and back sapphire glass covers. The movement has an 82 part toubrillon carriage, 64 hour power reserve and a vertically polished bridge. This type of finishing is also found on other parts of the movement. With supreme chamfering, hand filing and polishing the Lumière’s movement shines prominently within its case, earning the name for which it’s called.

Strap

The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Lumière Platine comes with a midnight blue strap in hand-sewn double- sided alligator leather. It features a white gold folding clasp instead of a platinum one to hold up to scratches better.

Additional Specifications