Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon 2014

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Pingtsai introduces the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon from BaselWorld 2014, showcasing its groundbreaking ultra-slim movement. This post highlights Bulgari's significant achievement in horological innovation, presenting the technical details that enabled the creation of the thinnest tourbillon movement ever made at the time.

This year at BaselWorld 2014, Bulgari introduces its new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. The spectacular extra-slim tourbillon movement, with a thickness of 1.95mm, is the the thinnest on the market and slimmest ever made.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon

The tourbillon cage which measured 1.95mm in thickness determined the overall thickness of the entire movement. The movement also incorporates two bridges, one for the minute wheel and the other for the gear train of the tourbillon cage, which rotates once a minute. Bulgari was able to create such a thin tourbillon movement by using various elements including:

- Ball bearings for the moving parts. There are 7 ball bearings positioned on the basic movement, while the tourbillon cage has a cartridge bearing that allows it to pivot. The final ball bearing lets the escape wheel pivot.

- The regulator assembly was omitted. Instead, timing is now adjusted on the balance wheel directly. This helped to make the movement even thinner.

Another significant development for this watch is how the barrel remains in position guided by three ball bearings around the outer edge. The height of the spring was able to be doubled due to this and as a result yields a power reserve of close to 55 hours. Other notable elements of this watch include:

Movement

- Finissimo Tourbillon calibre, Manufacture-made ultra-thin hand-wound flying Tourbillon movement performing one turn/minute. The thinnest ever made at just 1.95 thick

- Total thickness of the watch: 5.00 mm

- Fitting diameter: 32.00 mm; total diameter: 32.60 mm; 14.5 lignes

- 249 parts, frequency of 21,600 vph (3Hz)

- Tourbillon carriage: 1.95 mm thick, mounted on a peripherally-driven ultra-thin ball-bearing mechanism

- Variable-inertia balance requiring no index-assembly

- Approx. 55-hour power reserve

- High-end finishing: bevelling, Côtes de Genève

Case and dial

- Platinum case, 40 mm in diameter

- Polished black lacquered dial

- Black alligator leather strap

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon

With the addition of the new Finissimo watches, Bulgari continues to develop its Octo collection of watches with innovations in both form and content. The iconic line is expanding significantly with a wider range of sizes and complications, having added a chronograph version as well in addition to the elegant and formal hand-wound ultra-thin complication watches.

It is evident that Bulgari has learned how to combine a sensational aesthetic inspired by Italian creativity with its fine-jewelry legacy and the wonderful precision of exceptional Swiss mechanics. The manufacture’s advancements have been fueled by its efforts to gradually bring all of the traditional skills under its roof and gaining full mastery of modern technologies and all of its production abilities. As a result, Bvlgari now has complete control of all creative and assembly processes.

With the Octo Finissimo watches, Bulgari matches style with performance. The tourbillon improves the accuracy of mechanical watches by offsetting perturbations caused by the earth’s gravity in the balance wheel’s isochronism. Delicately made and protected by its cage, the tourbillon defies gravity with its rotations, which are as “finely tuned as a high-performance racing engine and as poetic as a beating heart.”

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon

This message has been edited by pingtsai on 2014-04-06 10:24:35

Key Points from the Discussion

There is a growing appreciation for brands like Bulgari and Piaget for their innovation and artistry in producing elegant, classic, and thin watches, contrasting with the perceived bulkiness of some contemporary Patek Philippe models.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon's movement thickness of 1.95mm is a significant achievement, making it nearly 1mm thinner than previous records, and the claim refers specifically to the movement's thickness, not the entire watch.
The Octo line is praised for its iconic case and black lacquered dial, with the tourbillon version being particularly fascinating and handsome, indicating the line's successful expansion into complications.
A point of debate arises regarding the claim of 'thinnest ever made,' with a reference to the 1986 Audemars Piguet automatic tourbillon being thinner in overall watch thickness.
The author clarifies that Bulgari is marketing the movement itself as the thinnest, prompting a discussion on the precise definition of 'thinnest' in watchmaking.

The Discussion

Goldenlutin

Apr 6, 2014

The thinnest tourbillon in a wristwatch is and was the Audemars Piguet from 1986 with 4.8mm and it even is AUTOMATIC! The Bulgari is a nice watch though, but not the thinnest ever made ... Best, Goldenlutin

jrwong23 (aka watchthebin)

Apr 6, 2014

Is growing into a family with complications! Very exciting for Bulgari. I like the black lacquered dial and iconic Octo case. Even the simplest Octo in steel and black lacquer will attract me. This Octo tourbillon, whether the thinnest or not, is simply fascinating and looks very handsome like the simple Octo. Thanks for sharing Ping. I like the Octo line and am glad it's growing. Cheers Robin

pingtsai

Apr 6, 2014

They are marketing it as such I think. They are saying the movement is 1.95mm. Is that the thinnest?

timekeeper703

Apr 6, 2014

Hi, The AP your referring to is Calibre 2870 where the back of the case is part of the base plate.....that movement is 5mm thick. The point of that watch wasnt being thinnest....it was the size of the tourbillon cage being the smallest. The Bulgari Tourb....is 1.95 mm thick that is almost 1 mm thinner than the previous record which was Arnold and Son last year at 2.9mm I believe. Bulgari is claiming thinnest movement if you read closely. -KHD

jimjenkins

Apr 7, 2014

Being a Patek wearer for some time, I am increasingly being disappointed by the bulky pieces Patek is producing these days. The new Pateks seem to be the same old movement, which is good for reliability, fitted into increasingly bulky and thick cases, which really turn me off. There are very few (1-3) Patek pieces in current production that I consider wearing. All my pieces are discontinued 36-37 mm diameter models, to make my point. I am very impressed by the increasing quality of Bulgari and P

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