New Release
SJX's preview of the Calibre de Cartier chronograph with its in-house 1904-CH MC movement offers a crucial first look at Cartier's strategic expansion into sportier, more masculine timepieces. This article provides essential details on the movement's technical specifications and design cues, making it invaluable for collectors interested in Cartier's evolving horological capabilities.
As a preview of the new watches that will be shown at SIHH 2013, Cartier has announced the new Calibre de Cartier chronograph with in-house 1904-CH MC movement. A chronograph is the obvious choice to extend the Calibre de Cartier line, since the watch case is intended as a sporty, masculine style.
This will be available in rose gold or steel, with the option of a leather strap with folding buckle or a matching bracelet.
The chronograph retains several of the design cues of the time-only Calibre de Cartier, like the three-date aperture as well as the prominent crown guards.
A thoughtful detail is the minute track that is engraved on the inner rim of the bezel.
Specs of the Calibre de Cartier chronograph:
Diameter: 42 mm
Crown: seven-sided crown in steel adorned with a faceted blue synthetic spinel
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Water-resistance: 100 m / 330 feet / 10 bars
Dial: silvered opaline dial, snailed in part, stamped on the XII numeral, the hour markers and aperture, Roman numerals and black transferred hour markers. Two snailed counters (hour/minute) with diamond-set bevel.
Bezel: steel with engraved rail-track
Hands: sword-shaped in black oxidised steel with a luminescent coating
And movement specifications:
Movement: Manufacture self-winding mechanical chronograph calibre 1904-CH, calendar window at 6 o’clock
Casing-up diameter: 11 ½ lines, 25.58 mm
Total diameter: 26.18 mm
Thickness: 5.71 mm
Number of jewels: 35
Number of parts: 269
Balance: 28,800 vibrations / hour (4Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours
Finish: côtes de Genève
The movement is based on the 1904 MC and highlights include:
- Column wheel, visible through display back
- Vertical clutch Linear hammer for chronograph reset
- Double barrels
- Ceramic ball bearings for rotor
- Bi-directional click winding mechanism
Notice that the chronograph construction is very similar to calibres from other Richemont brands, notably JLC.
For those wondering the click winding mechanism is similar to Seiko's magic lever.
Live photos to come soon.
- SJX
But I wish they would make the date window a single number
(albeit made by JLC). Looking forwards to some live photos.
look forward to seeing some photos on the wrist.
not made by JLC. Though as I noted there are similarities in the construction. - SJX
although a helping hand from La Grande Maison may not be a bad thing.
... but Calibre does not do it for me...
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