Emmanuel, known as quattro, delves into the captivating history of the Cartier ref. 78101, affectionately nicknamed “Fabergé.” His meticulous research uncovers the origins of this evocative name within the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection, offering a rare glimpse into Cartier's design philosophy and its homage to Peter Carl Fabergé's iconic artistry. This exploration highlights how Cartier's naming conventions added a layer of narrative depth to its timepieces.
The
Cartier ref.
78101 is nicknamed “
Fabergé” because, when
Cartier launched the
Louis Cartier Collection in
1973, the maison assigned
evocative names to
several of the
12 different
models (Ceinture, Gondole, Cristallor, etc.).

For this particular reference — a
cushion‑shaped case with
rounded corners —
Cartier chose the
name “
Fabergé” as an explicit
allusion to the
world of
Peter Carl Fabergé, especially the famous
imperial eggs.

The “
Grand Modèle” (large size model) measures
26 x
33 x
7 mm.
credit: @theydid (1), Breloque, eguchi-store.jp (movement) Antiqurious (dial with hands + two wrist shots) & @timebyraf
White gold examples are
very rare, but they exist.

According to the page below, the model was originally called “
rectangle cintré coins arrondis” (curved rectangle with rounded corners)
credit: @morillo55The
Small Model measures
26 x
32 mm
credit: @watchalia
How do you like this model and case shape?
BONUS: THE 12 MODELS OF THE 1973 LOUIS CARTIER COLLECTION (
check this article by
Anthony Traina for
Hodinkee)
- Baignoire (ref. 78094)
- Ceinture (ref. 78099)
- Coussin Bamboo (ref. 78102)
- Cristallor (ref. 78096)
- Ellipse (ref. 78091)
- Fabergé (ref. 78101)
- Gondolo (ref. 97050)
- Santos-Dumont (ref. 78097)
- Square (ref. 97051)
- Tank Louis (ref. 78086)
- Tank Normale (ref. 78092)
- Vendôme (ref. 78090)
credit: Hodinkee
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
About the Cartier Baignoire Ref. 78091
The Cartier reference 78091 is part of the Baignoire model line, characterized by its distinctive oval case shape. This particular reference is a notable example of Cartier's design philosophy during the period, emphasizing elegant forms and a refined aesthetic that distinguishes it within the broader Baignoire collection. It represents a specific iteration of the Baignoire, showcasing the brand's commitment to varied case dimensions and proportions within its classic offerings.
This reference features a case crafted from 18k yellow gold, measuring 23 x 31 mm. The watch is powered by a manual-winding mechanical movement, reflecting traditional watchmaking practices. The crystal protecting the dial is made of mineral glass, a common material for watches of its era, contributing to its authentic vintage character.
For collectors, the 78091 holds interest as a representative piece of Cartier's historical Baignoire production. Its manual-winding movement and specific case dimensions appeal to those who appreciate the brand's heritage and the nuances of its design evolution. This reference fits into the lineage of Cartier's shaped watches, offering a classic and understated presence.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 78-1
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 23 x 31 mm
- Dial
- White
- Crystal
- Mineral glass
About the Cartier Baignoire Ref. 78097
The Cartier Santos-Dumont reference 78097 represents an early iteration of the Santos-Dumont line, predating the formalization of the Louis Cartier Collection in 1973 but embodying the design principles that would define it. This reference is characterized by its distinct square case with rounded corners and visible screws, a design directly inspired by the original watch created for Alberto Santos-Dumont. It stands as a foundational piece within the broader Santos family, showcasing the restrained elegance and functional design that Cartier applied to its early wristwatches. This particular reference is a testament to Cartier's enduring commitment to form and proportion.
The case of the Santos-Dumont 78097 is typically crafted from precious metals, often 18k yellow gold, reflecting Cartier's tradition of luxury watchmaking. The dimensions are generally modest, consistent with the era's preferences for dress watches, designed to sit discreetly on the wrist. These watches house a manual-wind mechanical movement, a common feature for Cartier timepieces of this period, emphasizing traditional watchmaking techniques. The crystal protecting the dial is typically mineral glass, contributing to its vintage character and authenticity.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in the historical development of the Santos-Dumont model and Cartier's early design language. It represents a specific moment in the brand's history, offering a direct link to the origins of one of its most recognizable designs. The 78097 is sought after by those who appreciate the understated sophistication of Cartier's design heritage and its early interpretations of classic forms, providing a refined example of a historically significant wristwatch.
Specifications
- Caliber
- ETA 2512
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 27 mm
- Dial
- White
- Water Resist.
- Not water resistant
- Crystal
- Mineral