Cartier: Reference Guide & FAQ

afaleh · 2022-01-23T03:50:17Z

Explore the Cartier Santos Triple 100, a rare high horology piece. Uncover its 'piece unique' status, bespoke modifications, and material mysteries.

afaleh

WPS member · Cartier forum

20 replies4423 views10 photos

Afaleh's acquisition of a Cartier Santos Triple 100, a significant high horology piece, sparks a fascinating inquiry into its unique characteristics. His detailed questions regarding its 'piece unique' designation, material composition, and crown sapphire color invite the WatchProSite community to unravel the mysteries of this exceptional timepiece. This article delves into the forum's collective expertise to shed light on the nuances of this rare Cartier reference.

I was offered this watch and decided to buy it, I have no idea if the 55k usd I paid was fair but after finishing out some basic info and examining the watch and comparing it to what 55k could buy today I decided it was a good deal.

So I now know the triple 100 was an LE of a 100 pieces, but the paperwork states piece unique? The numbering on the back says no 382 on the movement but no 16/100 on the case. How is it a piece unique? And what do the numbers on the movement indicate?

I also found out the watch is made of palladium and has steel and white gold material in different parts, but the polished bezel I would swear looks like platinum? It definitely has a totally different shade than the rest of the watch and when contrasted against my platinum watches has the same white look and same polish effect. It’s definitely not steel or white gold, could it be polished palladium or is it in fact platinum?

Finally the crown sapphire has a different shade than the blue sapphires I have seen on other Cartier watches. This has a darker blue color, did Cartier have a different shade back in the day?

Thank you for any help, I invested quite a bit of money on a watch I know very little about on a hunch and any info that would assist in my appreciation of the piece would be very much appreciated

Key Points from the Discussion

The 'piece unique' designation on the paperwork, despite the watch being numbered 16/100, was clarified by Cartier: a royal originally purchased this specific piece and requested bespoke modifications to the bezel and case, making it a unique iteration within the limited edition. Cartier has since discontinued this service for existing references, now only creating new unique references.
The crown on this specific Cartier Santos Triple 100 is likely a sapphire, explaining its darker blue hue compared to the spinel typically used on Cartier watches cased entirely in precious metal.
The polished bezel's platinum-like appearance, distinct from palladium, steel, or white gold, could be attributed to a custom request by the original royal owner to replace white gold parts with platinum, potentially for religious reasons, further supporting its 'piece unique' status.
While the watch is part of a Limited Edition of 100 pieces, it is plausible that not all 100 were ultimately produced. A true 'piece unique' engraving would typically read 'No 1' or '1/1'.
The paperwork indicating 'piece unique' might have been an accidental mix-up, as this collection also featured other limited editions with paved bezels depicting animals like tigers and dragons, or fully paved small/medium Santos versions with panthers.
The Cartier Santos Triple 100 is recognized for its unique features, including a changing dial mechanism, a special stone on the crown, skeletonized movement, and use of special metals, making it a highly distinctive and rare timepiece.

The Discussion

Brandon Skinner

Jan 23, 2022

I can’t add much, however what I can say is the crown on your watch is almost certainly a Sapphire. The Cartier crowns mounted on watches which are in cased fully in precious metal are actually spinel, which would explain the difference in color between yours and others. Enjoy your new watch!

afaleh

Jan 23, 2022

That’s a great piece of info, I was going mad trying to figure out if the crown was actually a different shade or if I was just imagining things. Thanks for the info!!!!!! Super helpful! If I could get the rest of the questions answered I would be in watch heaven, or at least I will be once this is serviced

Spangles - Dr. Tabby

Jan 23, 2022

This is a cool watch.

AuHavrePro

Jan 23, 2022

Santos. I do love the tri-dial selection in one. Original and authentic design! Good choice, enjoy it thoroughly! Cheers, Filip

Pun

Jan 23, 2022

All are just fabulous 🤩. Enjoy them in good health.. Regards

LiftAngle51

Jan 23, 2022

Maybe not a peace unique, a unique Santos in the way of being rare and special. 55k is a lot, and it is hard for me that the best Santos cost so much. You gamble and not for nothing. I think you got one of the most unique out there. It get everything, a changing dial, a special stone on the crown, skeleton, special metals. My advise, never sell that watch! Keep it!

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