New Release
MTF introduces the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire, a standout technical piece from SIHH 2014, showcasing Cartier's innovative approach to haute horlogerie. This article delves into the watch's unique multi-tier circular display for its perpetual calendar, a departure from traditional layouts. It highlights Cartier's ambition to redefine classic complications with creative design and advanced mechanics.
Dear Forumners,
At Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2004 (SIHH), Cartier is presenting more than 90 new timepieces!
Obviously, we have to focus on a few select novelties at a time. In the run up to the SIHH, FrX and I have been "refreshing our memories" with previous watches that may have some bearing on the novelties for 2014.
Old Teasers:
Before the LIVE reports from our team in Geneva, here is perhaps the exceptional technical piece from Cartier in 2014: Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch.
Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire is a surprising new interpretation of the perpetual calendar utilising creative design and a multi-tier circular display. It should require little time to adapt to the day, date and month display at the centre of the dial, as it is quite intuitive.
Simply start by looking at the mesmerising flying tourbillon at the centre of the "amphitheatre". If you can draw your gaze away from that marvellous visage, each tier of concentric rings outwards imparts information about Day, Month and Date in a concise sweep.
Clearly marked windows frame the correct day - month - date. The ergonomic concept is to concentrate on a few degrees of visual field arc. The seldom used Leap year indicator is on the back of the watch.
The traditional perpetual calendar display usually requires looking at 4 different windows spread out widely on the dial, ostensibly for "clarity" and yet the eye sweep is purposely and repeatedly across the widest dial area. The concept is to achieve clarity by separating the information displays.
Three key technical master strokes
Mechanism protection
The gear train system of the 9459 MC movement replaces the traditional lever and spring mechanisms with a gear train mechanism that substantially reduces the risk of breakage when the watch is over-wound or adjusted at inadvisable times.
The traditional design of a perpetual calendar prohibits manual correction several hours before and after midnight. The adjustments are usually made using four tiny push-pieces on the side of the case; many such mechanisms are fiddly and not easy to identify. I don't know about you but by the time I could afford perpetual calendar watches, my far-sightedness made it difficult to use them!
Simplified setting using the crown
The adjustment of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire is simplified with a setting system that uses the crown.
In addition to the usual setting of the hour and minute, the crown also controls the date and month indicators.
For the frequent traveller across International Date Line, the watch is adjustable both forwards and backwards for date. Users of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch need not fear going beyond the current date as this error is easily corrected. Old fashioned perpetual calendars required manual adjustment forward by 4 years to correct.
Masterful chronometry
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch contains a flying tourbillon and the movement qualifies for the Geneva Seal to continue the "family" tradition of prior Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur and Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon watches.
Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch
Tourbillon complication, perpetual calendar with circular display, calibre 9459 MC
"Poinçon de Genève" certified timepiece
Case: platinum
Diameter: 45 mm
Crown: beaded in platinum, set with a blue sapphire cabochon
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Dial: silver-coloured Bezel: platinum
Hands: sword-shaped blued-steel
Casing-up diameter: 45 mm
Case thickness: 15.1 mm
Strap: black alligator-skin
Clasp: double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat white gold
Water-resistance: 30 metres / 3 bar / 100 feet
Movement: Manufacture mechanical with automatic winding, calibre 9459 MC, tourbillon and perpetual calendar with circular display, "Poinçon de Genève" certified timepiece
Casing-up diameter: 14 lines, i.e. 31.38 mm
Total diameter: 32 mm
Thickness: 8.1 mm
Number of jewels: 51
Number of parts: 382
Balance: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: approx. 50 hours
Limited series of 100 numbered pieces.
What do you think?
Yay or Nay?
Regards,
MTF
2014 Previews:
We have already revealed the Calibre de Cartier Diver, Ladies Tortue and Ballon Bleu de Cartier - Parrot watches. CLICK following URL links
Calibre de Cartier Diver: cartier.watchprosite.com
Ladies Tortue: cartier.watchprosite.com
Ballon Bleu de Cartier - Parrot: cartier.watchprosite.com
... another perpetual that can be corrected forward and backward! I love the mechanics, and I love the design, BUT: Even on the oversized picture on my screen I really had to concentrate on the calendar rings to find the small blue brackets around the various indications. With the watch on my wrist, I am rather certain it is next to impossible to read the date, even with reading glasses. It reminds me of the linear perpetual by Breguet: ambitious, but not really practical, and yet not classic en
The Cartier team development is just amazing! they are competing with big names for years ( design & movement) ! Thank you for your post. Regards, TGV ps: any idea of the cost??
I would have to give this one an ALMOST YAY. I am not as perturbed by the readability of the calendar as Marcus but see that as more of the fun. The issue I have is that so much of the hour/minute dial is eaten away by the wonderful concentric rings of the calendar that no doubt one will sometimes make a mistake as to what hour it is. A much better solution would be to have no flying tourbillon, thus making it somehow affordable, and having FIVE concentric rings filling the whole dial, but more
5 concentric rings. But Cartier already has a PC (round and tortue) and a PC+C so another "regular" PC could lead to internal cannibalism. Although I don't understand why self-winding movement and not a manual one, it's an astonishing watch. And by the way, who is interested to know the time by second? Regards, Constantin
jointly in a most fascinating way: Tourbillon for the seconds, and then all the calendar indications. The 'important' information (time) is separated so not to confuse the reader (ergo: admirer ). I have a different small quibble: The succession of indications from outer to inner sections is wrong... ... as I said, a small one ,-) Cheers, Magnus
tudorctin, Re: automatic winding. One suggestion is that perpetual calendar (PC) watches should be running continually. The owner should be wearing it most of the time or on a winder. If you have one of the old fashioned multi-pusher adjustment PC, you soon learn not to ever let it stop! Its such an annoying chore to reset. Now, there are at least two brands with easy to set PC forwards and backwards. Regards, MTF
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