Complications
SJX's post delves into Cartier's exquisite use of enamel grisaille, showcasing the Rotonde de Cartier with a tiger motif. This article highlights the intricate artistry and technical skill involved in creating these striking dials, drawing parallels with previous Cartier creations and emphasizing the brand's mastery of decorative techniques.
One of my favourite watches from Cartier last year was the incredibly striking Tortue with jaguar motif in enamel. It was so arresting you can barely see the time.
This year Cartier has continued on the same theme with the Rotonde de Cartier with tiger motif. Big cats are one of the key creatures in Cartier's menagerie, with the most well known mascot being the panther.
Executed in enamel grisaille, an enamel technique that originated in Limoges, the tiger is comprised of black and white, and all the greys in between. This is the chromatic opposite of the jaguar Tortue but equally striking. As with black and white photos, the details of the tiger are fleshed out and made even more vivid by the lack of colour. Pictures absolutely do not do it justice.
Enamel grisaille is unusual in watchmaking, I have yet to encounter it elsewhere, and uses only two colours – black and white. The dial begins first with a black enamel dial. Once that is fired, the artisan then paints the motif with a fine brush using blanc de Limoges, a white enamel. Pure white is painted in thick layers, while various shades of grey are achieved with thinner layers that show some of the black enamel underneath. The thicker white enamel also serves to create the impression of depth, since it stands out in relief.
The tiger slowly takes form over six to eight firings in the oven, in addition to the original black enamel dial. Finishing the tiger takes over 40 hours.
But it is not just painting, a tiny pick is also used to scratch the surface of the enamel, which reveals some of the dark enamel beneath, to create the texture of fur. The fineness of the fur-like enamel surface is impossible to capture on camera.
Last year's jaguar was dramatic and loud, but it lacked character. That didn’t matter since the enamelled jaguar face was so mesmerising.
The tiger is different. Enamel grisaille lends itself to creating expression thought shadows and shading. Consequently the tiger is quiet and subtle, and expressive; it seems wistful, as if contemplating something. The tiger almost seems to have soul in its eyes.
- SJX
I much prefer the latest version: I prefer the case shape and the Tiger. The result looks fantastic. Fx
works of art. What really caught my eye with the jaguar watch was how the artwork spilled over from the dial to the case, as if the subject could not be contained to just the dial. The detail on the tiger is more impressive and I imagine more difficult to achieve with just 2 colors, but on purely personal preference I prefer the jaguar piece. Stewart
I'd pick the jaguar over the tiger, but the tiger is an admirable piece of art. - SJX
all it takes is one brand to start and soon others will follow. - SJX
looking at your pictures. They aren't good for my financial well being and my photography. cen@jkt
The craftsmanship is truly impressive. For artistic watches I still lean to the Metiers d'Art watches that Vacheron Constantin introduced at SIHH this year (Doves/Fish/Shellfish), but then that probably is to be expected with a VC partisan such as myself. What movement is used for these models? Bill
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