Review
SJX provides a detailed examination of the Cartier Santos 100 Carbon ADLC, a model that was soon to be discontinued at the time of writing. This article highlights the technical innovation behind its amorphous diamond-like carbon (ADLC) coating, explaining its unique properties of hardness and elasticity. SJX's insights into material science offer readers a deeper understanding of this distinctive Cartier reference.
Cartier introduced the soon to be discontinued Santos 100 Carbon in 2009. Coated in black amorphous diamond-like carbon (ADLC), the watch was quite a departure from the typical Cartier look. I wrote in my SIHH report of 2009: “This is a very unusual step for Cartier, both in terms of materials and design; I cannot recall any other Cartier watch with a treated case.” But more notable than the look is the useful properties of the coating, which are not widely understood.
Santos 100 Carbon chronograph with titanium bezel and pushers
Santos 100 Carbon Automatic with rose gold bezel and crown
ADLC coating – which simply speaking imparts the properties of diamond to the surface coating – Cartier uses for the Santos 100 Carbon is unusual in its durability. As explained to me by Dr Zian Kighelman, who has a PhD in material science and was formerly the senior manager for innovation at Cartier manufacture, ADLC’s properties function on two scales, hardness and elasticity, with each being inversely proportional to the other. So if hardness increases, elasticity falls.
Hardness is important to resist scratches, but the elasticity of the coating matters as well. A common problem with coated watch cases is delamination, which happens when the substrate (underlying material surface) deforms, for instance being dented or gouged. Because the coating is hard, it cannot conform to the deformed surface, so it no longer adheres and thus delaminates. This is why when certain coated watch cases are damaged, the metal surface below is exposed. Usually the metal surface is a contrasting colour to the coating – typically a steel or gold base with a dark coating – so it is obvious when delamination occurs.
So Cartier opted for a coating that is more elastic than typically used in watch cases. As a result the coating adheres even when the surface below is damaged. But even this more elastic ADLC has a harder surface than steel, so it resists the hairline scratches and scuffs that are inevitable. Consequently the coating is admirable resistant. I have personally tried to scratch a Santos 100 ADLC with the sharp end of a house key, enthusiastically and gleefully, but with no success.
Also notable is the fact that the ADLC coating is fingerprint proof. The oils on the fingertips that typically leave a fingerprint do nothing to the Santos 100 Carbon.
Initially I didn’t like the Santos 100 Carbon but have warmed to it, especially in the rose gold and ADLC combination. It is a very striking watch with highly functional properties, but admittedly the aesthetic is far from typical Cartier.
Though ADLC models are still available at Cartier boutiques and retailers, production will end later this year, giving the Santos 100 Carbon a fairly short four year model life. Cartier has put quite some effort into the coating production, so I expect other ADLC models to emerge in the future (in the Calibre de Cartier perhaps?). Right now the only watch with a coated case is the Santos Dumont Skeleton in titanium. But Cartier uses ADLC to coat wheels in the lubrication-free ID One concept watch, so that might just appear in mass production in the future as well.
- SJX
Above: Santos Dumont Skeleton Titanium
This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-04-22 22:35:29
The Cartier Santos 100 was introduced in 2004 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the original Santos-Dumont watch. It represents a contemporary interpretation of the historic pilot's watch, featuring a larger and more robust case design compared to its predecessors. This model positioned itself as a sportier, more modern offering within the Santos collection, appealing to collectors seeking a bolder presence on the wrist while retaining the iconic square aesthetic.
The Santos 100 typically features a stainless steel or precious metal case, often with a brushed finish and polished bezel screws. Case dimensions vary, but common sizes include a large model around 51mm x 41mm. It is powered by an automatic mechanical movement, often a modified ETA caliber, providing reliable timekeeping. The crystal is usually sapphire, and water resistance is generally rated for daily wear.
For collectors, the Santos 100 is notable for its blend of heritage design with modern proportions and construction. It marked a significant update to the Santos line, moving towards a more substantial and contemporary aesthetic. Its robust build and versatile design made it a popular choice, bridging the gap between Cartier's dressier offerings and more overtly sporty watches.
and liked it so much that I started researching it and it led me to the Purists and a fascination with watches is general. The Santos was my first big purchase and is still one of my favorites. I think the coating gives the watch a more casual look. It can be worn in almost all situations except very formal occasions where a thinner and more classic watch would be more appropriate. Was it not popular enough to keep producing? I am disappointed that it is no longer being made as I am partial to t
the discontinuation and eventual replacement keeps the collection fresh. Cartier often does this for extensions of main lines (e.g. Tank Basculante or Tank Yearling), which is a good strategy to keep products scarce. What will have will not be seen on other wrists often! - SJX
and i must say i was smitten by it very light and tromendously elegant
and I should soon be able to reveal a piece unique execution of this on the forum. - SJX
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