Cartier Tank Stepped Ref. 15716 Vintage Guide

Blackdial · 2015-04-04T09:45:47Z

Explore the rare 1970s Cartier Tank Stepped Ref. 15716, a pre-Must de Cartier model. Learn its unique features, origins, and how to identify it.

Blackdial

WPS member · Cartier forum

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Blackdial's acquisition of a vintage Cartier Tank with a stepped dial sparked a fascinating community discussion, highlighting the complexities of identifying rare Cartier models from the 1970s and 80s. This thread delves into the nuances that differentiate various Tank iterations, particularly those preceding the 'Must de Cartier' era, offering valuable insights for collectors navigating this less-documented period of Cartier's history.

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I recently acquired this vintage Cartier stepped dial tank, partly because it seemed like a rather rare model. After doing some research, I found that Antiquorum auctioned a similar one in 2013 with a dark blue dial and identified it as the Cartier Ref. 1543 Galbé Gold Plated Cartier Paris, case No. 5-512-118, Ref. 1543, from the 1980s. This one has a black vermeil dial with gold lettering, and measures 26 x 27 mm, which is larger than any of the other tank watches made during this time. The dealer who sold me this one dates it from the 1970s. Does anyone have any more information or trivia about this particular model? I could find no mention of it in Franco Cologni's book "Cartier The Tank Watch," but that book is particularly weak on Cartier watches of the 1970s - 80s. Wondering if it was only offered by Cartier Paris, and whether it's from before or after the "Must de Cartier" era.

Key Points from the Discussion

The acquired Cartier Tank is identified as a rarer, pre-Must de Cartier 'Tank Stepped (NY)' Ref: 15716, made circa 1975 in the Cartier New York boutique. Key distinguishing features include a gilded brass alloy back-plate, solid silver vermeil gilded front case, a four-screw back-case, and a large elongated cabochon sapphire crown integrated into the case design.
Less desirable versions of this model, Ref: 1543, were produced in the UK and France, characterized by a smaller crown not integrated into the case and a push-back design.
The watch's design aligns with a series of models released around 1974, including the Vendome, Square Incurve, Gondole, Cristallor, Ellipse, Coussin, and Square wristwatch, suggesting it might be an evolution of the Square or Vendome Galbée lines rather than a traditional Tank family member.
The absence of silver marks on the case indicates it predates the 'Must de Cartier' line, which typically featured plaque on 925 silver or 750 gold, or occasionally solid silver.
A collector inquired about sourcing a crown for the 1543 model and whether crowns for the 1543 and 15716 references are interchangeable for the winding mechanism.

The Discussion

Geo

Apr 4, 2015

But what it is exactly, I do not know yet. Around 1974 Cartier released a series of different models where your watch belongs to. The Vendome, the Square Incurve, the Gondole, the Cristallor, the Ellipse,, the Coussin and the Square wristwatch. Yours comes close to the lines of the Square Wristwatch and the Christallor, but it is different. To the Tank family it does not belong. If I do find the exact model, I'll come back to your topic. GEO

Blackdial

Apr 4, 2015

Thanks Geo! I've seen a Vendome that has the same black vermeil on gold lettering style. Would love more information if you find it.

foversta

Apr 4, 2015

... a kind of evolution of the Square. Or of the Vendome Galbée. Thanks a lot for your input! Fx

ron66

Apr 5, 2015

Probably before the ''Must line''. Cartier NY ? There are no silver marks on the case,'' Must '' models where either plaque on 925 silver or the where made of 750 gold. A few where only silver without plaque. Love the black dial. Kind regards, Ronald

hoistforrent

Apr 16, 2020

Nice find! Luckily you bought the rarer version of the 1970s Stepped Cartier Tank. Cartier This model is a PRE-Must De Cartier with a gilded brass alloy back-plate and solid silver vermeil gilded front case and is referred to as the Tank Stepped (NY) with the Ref: 15716 made circa 1975 in the Cartier boutique New York with the ''FOUR SCREW back-case & large elongated cabochon sapphire crown which was partly integrated into the case design and it had punched serial numbers on the back case st

hoistforrent

Apr 16, 2020

see link for more info forums.watchuseek.com .html#post51469653

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Cartier Tank Stepped Ref. 15716 Vintage Guide

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