Cartier Tank: David Bailey Portraits

SJX's exploration of the Cartier Tank, featuring portraits by David Bailey, delves into the enduring legacy of this iconic rectangular watch. This article provides a compelling argument for the Tank's historical significance and design versatility, demonstrating how it has transcended trends and price points to remain a horological and cultural icon for nearly a century.

A round face is the perfect for telling the time. A circle is unbroken and continuous, just like the flow of time. And so it is unsurprising that most watches are round. And even if they are angular, the dials are round, or at least rounded. The Royal Oak for example is octagonal, but the classic tapisserie guilloche dial is circular.

So the Cartier Tank is unusual in that it’s an angular watch with an angular face. Created in 1919 the Cartier Tank is arguably the most iconic form watch in history. It has graced the wrists of some of the most famous personalities throughout the twentieth century. A brief list of notable owners: Cary Grant, Greta Garbo, Andy Warhol, Yves Saint Laurent, Princess Diana and even Michelle Obama. Notice both sexes are equally well represented amongst Tank owners; the Tank can be all things to all people.

And unlike its rivals, like the JLC Reverso for instance, the Tank has been in production since its introduction 93 years ago. In myriad shapes and sizes, over 250 at last count, the Tank has been with us all throughout the 20^th century and now into the 21^st.

Most unusually the Tank has managed to remain an icon despite having been available at both ends of the price spectrum. The Tank was a high horology timepiece in the 1920s with refined European Watch & Clock Co. (EWC) ebauches; these change hands for tens of thousands, occasionally for six figures, at auction today.

But the Tank was also a mass market, and frankly mediocre, wristwatch in the seventies and eighties era of Les Must de Cartier. Those sterling silver or vermeil Tank watches were true to the style of Cartier though they were lacking in terms of quality. But they were what was needed to revive the then ailing brand.

The versatility of the Tank design is demonstrated in these portraits by British photographer David Bailey, who turned 74 this year. Once married to Catherine Deneuve, Mr Bailey is one of the most noted photographers of his era. He has captured The Beatles and even Andy Warhol, though Mr Warhol’s wristwatch was not visible in that photo.

Usually it’s easy to dismiss celebrities endorsing a watch, but a watch like the Tank, which has been around for nearly 100 years, doesn’t need such endorsement for sales or legitimacy. As Mr Bailey notes, with some exaggeration perhaps, “The best watches are always Cartier. A classic.”

Here is a selection of the portraits with extracts from each subject’s interview. The rest of the portraits and full interviews are in the follow-up post.

“I find the Tank de Cartier watch beautiful. Chic without being ostentatious, but with great presence at the same time.” – Rupert Everett, actor, with the Tank Anglaise XL

“I think a Tank watch is one of those timeless objets that you can wear forever.” – Andrea Dellal, model, sporting the Tank Anglaise

“I [usually wear] a Cartier watch! I would be lost without my watch.” – Jordan Scott, photographer, filmmaker and actress, a Tank Francaise on her wrist

“I’ve actually never bought a watch come to think of it. All my watches have been gifts. I think giving a watch is always classic and beautiful. And as it ages, a watch becomes more valuable and special. It takes on a historic quality that you are handing on to someone.” – Lucy Liu, actress, with the Tank Anglaise high jewellery

“I think the tank watch is timeless, classic. It’s a beautiful watch, isn’t it? It makes me feel a little more elegant than I might normally feel!” – James Jagger, musician in Turbogeist, son of Mick, wearing the Tank Louis Cartier XL