As promised, here are my own feelings about the different Cartier Tank
MC.
Actually, I had the chance to shoot them today.
But I will be frank with you: they were very difficult to shoot. Why?
Simply because the shapes and curves of the cases combined with the
polished parts create a kind of mirror effect whatever the position you
choose to shoot the watches. Anyway, I tried to do my best and the most
important is to be able to deliver you fresh pictures, right from the
oven.
I contacted Cartier because these Tank MC were
not presented at the SIHH. It doesn't mean that they are not important
watches in the collection. It is totally the opposite. The decision to
release them in June is the proof that Cartier wished to dedicate them
all the emphasis they deserve. They symbolize a key addition to the Tank
collection. As you know, before this introduction, the Tank collection
was made of 5 lines:
- The Tank Anglaise we can
recognize easily with its integrated crown
- The Tank Louis
Cartier, the thin and the most elegant line
- The Tank
Americaine with its very rectangular case
- The Tank Française
which features a bracelet
- And the Tank Solo, the sober
line.
So we can add a new line which can be
characterized by:
- its case shape of 44mm x 34,3mm
which is closer to a square than any other Tank (the Skeleton Watch case
is even very similar to a square with a 43,9mm x 39,10mm dimension)
-
the use of Manufacture Cartier movements including the superb skeleton
movement, the 9611 MC.
Even if there are several versions of the
Tank MC, we can divide into 3 parts the line:
- the
SS versions
- the PG versions
- the Skeleton watch in
palladium
The first two versions are powered by the
first movement produced by Manufacture Cartier, the 1904 MC. It is a
famous movement because it operates the Calibre and in a sense, the
watch name was given to celebrate this first
caliber.
It is an automatic movement with a power
reserve of 48 hours. This power reserve may appear to be short despite
the use of two barrels but their goal is to achieve the best torque and a
constant behaviour for an optimized accuracy. The movement is more impressive in terms of
technical finishings than of decorative ones. I think it should need
some more refined details to improve the perceived quality. It is a bit a
pity because Cartier is totally focused on a high quality approach
whose goal is to reduce dramatically the failure rate. And if Cartier is
currently one of the top Manufactures in this perspective, it is due to
a very clever and advanced conception of the movements. The 1904 MC is
totally in coherence with this strategy.
I'm happy to
see the 1904 MC in another context than the Calibre and I must confess
that Cartier managed to integrate it in a rectangular watch which is not
so obvious.
The SS and PG versions have a 9,5mm
thickness which creates a good overall balance: the watch is not too
thin or too thick due to its case size and shape.
The
dial features the classic Cartier figures and railroad along with a
guillochage. At the beginning, I was not very seduced by the presence of
the date window even if for commercial reasons, I understood the choice
to insert one. After having spent one hour with these watches, it was
less problematic. I found it well integrated and Cartier took the right
decision to use the same date disk color than the dial. So this date is
almost fading...
When I turned over the watches, I
discovered the movement 1904 MC in its new context. And finally, I was
quite convinced by the way it is displayed. Cartier designed a square
"frame" to host it and so the see-through caseback is squared. The
visual effect is nice and from this issue (the use of a round movement
in a rectangular case), Cartier found a very satisfying solution. When I
observe the caseback, I have the feeling that the watch is a perfect
square. A well-done visual effect.
Obviously, the
same topic remains: I would have been happy to see a more refined
decoration of the movement, at least for the PG version. The difference
between the price tags should have justified a more exclusive decoration
with the PG version.
Here are the
pictures of the PG version, with the black flinqué
dial:
Don't you have the
feeling that the second hand subdial is very "Calibre"?
The 1904 MC in its new
context:
As I wrote before, the
outcome is very convincing due to the different constraints. The
see-through caseback is justified here.
The shape of the
case-side.
The Tank MC case is more complex than we
may think. It alternates brushed and polished parts, curved and straight
lines. It is a big asset for this watch. The octogonal crown is set
with a sapphire while the SS version crown is set with a
spinel.
The watch is very
comfortable on the wrist. The Cartier folding clasp system, even if it
is painful for me to handle it (I'm not very gifted with this Cartier
system!), allows very precise settings. So small or large wrists would
welcome the watch without any big problem. Of course, the size is quite
large, we are talking here about a 44mmx34,3mm case but the designers
did a great job. The curved case-sides define a refined atmosphere and
their thickness reduce the feeling of size. The dial opening is clearly
rectangular and I like this mix of shapes, of
proportions.
As you can see, the date
window is not shocking:
PG is a perfect material
for this kind of watch. But I think that thanks to its entry level price
and at the end, the very slight difference of quality (if we forget the
crown), the SS version could be the best
option.
Both watches
together:
The silvered flinqué dial
uses blued hands. The guillochage becomes more visible while it is more
subtle with the black dial:
Again, the date window is
well integrated on the dial:
The same 1904 MC
movement:
A closer look on the
dial:
A similar feeling on the
wrist, the watch is comfortable and has a good presence without being
too big.
Let's change the category
now. Let's enter another dimension.
The Tank MC
Skeleton Watch in Palladium is a superb timepiece. It gathers all what I
expect from the Cartier Manufacture:
- an original
movement lay-out
- some Cartier details which evoke the DNA of
the brand
- a daring style which is at the same time
refined
If you loved the Santos Skeleton but you
found it too big (which was my case...), this Tank MC Skeleton is for
you!
If you remember well, the Santos Skeleton in
Palladium has a 46,5mm x 54,9mm case which is huge in my point of view.
The non-round cases increase the feeling of size.
The
Tank MC Skeleton has a 43,9mm w 39,1mm case and you clearly feel the
difference.
With this Tank MC, you have the ability
to enjoy the beautiful lay-out of the squared 9611 MC movement in a more
subtle and refined atmosphere.
I was totally under
the charm of this watch which has something aerial.
I
like the contrast between the straight lines which create the big
figures and the wheels and parts beneath them.
The
balance incabloc is visible, maybe I would have preferred to hide
it.
A closer
look:
The movement is really
spectacular on the bridges side. It is beautiful not only due to its
flawless finishings but also due to its
architecture.
A feast for the
eyes:
The movement has a 4hz
frequency and a power reserve of 3 days. Winding it is a nice experience
since you are able to see what's going on when you wind it.
I was a bit afraid of the
"hair effect" which occurs with Skeleton watch. Surprisingly enough,
the wrist hair is not that visible. Good point!
What a
pleasure to wear this superb watch. I have all what Cartier wants to
achieve on the wrist...
When originality meets
elegance...
I was difficult for me to
give it back to the Cartier team!
Obviously, we are not in
the same price range than the other two watches. But these 3 timepieces
manage to build all together a coherent and seducing new Tank
line.
SS/PG
versions:
Pros:
+ a refined case
with nice details
+ size is balanced and I appreciate this step
towards smaller case
+ a good integration of the 1904 MC
movement
+ date window is discreet
+ the fine setting
of the folding clasp
- decorative finishings of the
movement are too shy
- the difference of price tags between the
versions would have justified superior movement finishings for the PG
version: I don't understand the difference of price. A positive point
for the SS version at the end.
- the folding clasp system when
you are not used with it and I think it twits too much the leather
strap
Skeleton in Palladium
version:
Pros:
+ a superb movement
in terms of architecture or of finishings
+ the pleasure to
enjoy it in a smaller case than the Santos Skeleton
+ a subtle
mix of originality and of elegance
+ the feeling to face
Cartier at its best
- the visible incabloc dial
side
- the folding clasp for the same reasons than before
Thanks a lot to the Cartier France team for the
time they spent with me
today.
Fx
