New Release
MTF's pre-SIHH 2014 review of the Cartier Tortue Ladies watches offers a historical and design-focused perspective on this iconic shape. His analysis of the Tortue's evolution, particularly the introduction of smaller, thinner models with updated design codes, provides valuable context for understanding Cartier's responsiveness to market demands. This article is essential for collectors interested in the brand's ladies' timepieces and its strategic design adaptations.
The Tortue (tortoise) watch shape was created in 1912, which, was very early in the history of wristwatches.
The "first" wristwatch was designed as a private gift to the pioneer aviator Santos-Dumont in 1904 but commercial versions did not appear until 1911.
The Tortue shape became "an instant success" to use a popular phrase of that era, when instant coffee also appeared. The memorable name and shape like a tortoise made it one of Cartier’s most desirable models.
Medium
For 2014, the timeless appeal of Tortue is reinterpreted with feminine charm.
There are two sizes: medium or small,
In pink or white gold,
With metal bracelet or alligator leather strap.
Small
The logic is leather strap for daytime use and gold bracelet for evening wear.
Of course, there are different degrees of gem-setting to suit the occasion.
Medium pink gold Tortue with alligator strap
Upfront, I like them as "fit for purpose" because they are an evolution of design rather than iconic stagnation.
The purpose is to lighten the style and curves on a watch for the modern woman.
Since the beginning, the House of Cartier has not been afraid to introduce new watch shapes and even updated versions of their iconic designs. The most important driver is the Customer and there is a demand for smaller and thinner Tortue, with cleaner lines for ladies.
The market growth in Asia with slender wrists and the fact is slimmer watches "catch" less on clothes and other accessories. Those two factors alone would justify a re-design.
Medium white gold Tortue with gold bracelet and diamond-set bezel
The medium size case measures 31 mm x 39 mm and it houses the "ultra-thin" 430MC mechanical movement.
Cartier kept their design codes of silver-white guilloche dial with Roman numerals and the rail-track minute markers. Without seconds hand or date display, the designs are clean and elegant.
The subtle modern changes are:
The availability of hand-wind mechanical movements like the ultra-thin 430MC and the 8970MC make them obvious choices to power the medium and small Tortue respectively.
Small pink gold Tortue with gold bracelet and diamond-set bezel
The small size case measures 24 mm x 30 mm and houses the 8970MC mechanical movement.
Small white gold Tortue with alligator strap and diamond-set bezel
Regards,
MTF
It reminds me of CPCP range. Of course, this is bigger now. Regards Ling
Ling, My first Cartier watch was a gift from the then (current) Mrs MTF. It has a ultra-thin handwind 430MC movement so I'm guessing the size is similar to the new Tortue medium case. The large Tortue cases are for complicated timepieces. Regards, MTF
The feature an almost magical case, not too 'shaped' but not too round - fascinating and suspenseful. Cartier always was for me about dials and cases, and those Tortoises combine the best of them. This is real luxury watchmaking (emphasis in italics ). Do you have images of the movements? Thanks, Magnus
Magnus, As hinted in the report, the movements used are based on the ultra thin Piaget base 430P and a JLC base for the medium and small watch respectively. Cartier continues their century-old relationship with excellent partners. I have photos of the base movement but not the Cartier-finished ones with the "MC-MC" decoration. Nothing fancy to see but we are assured of established reliable technology. Regards, MTF
Does the medium sized watch come with a transaparent case back? It would be a treat to view the ultra think movement!
....for ladies it is the whole package of function and form. Although the medium size Tortue is unisex when unembellished with diamonds, there is less emphasis on seeing the standard 430MC movement by ladies. It is sufficient that a good movement is inside. Actually, many men also feel no need to see uncomplicated movements. They are so much safer from UV light in closed cases. This new habit of transparent case back started with the revival of mechanical movements when people wanted to know why
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