Daniel Roth Ellipsocurvex Moonphase Watch Collection

Rosneathian · 2021-03-06T05:31:32Z

Explore the Daniel Roth Ellipsocurvex Moonphase from the Bvlgari era. Rosneathian reviews this 18K yellow gold timepiece, discussing its history, serviceability, and collector insights.

Rosneathian

WPS member · Independents forum

25 replies5981 views3 photos

Rosneathian shares an in-depth look at his Daniel Roth Ellipsocurvex Moonphase, a timepiece from the mid-2000s that embodies the watchmaker's distinctive classicism. His post offers a unique perspective on collecting watches from the Bvlgari era of Daniel Roth, highlighting the enduring appeal and historical significance of Monsieur Roth's independent vision. Rosneathian's meticulous research, including access to Eurostar archives and insights from seasoned collectors, provides a rich context for understanding this horological creation.

38mm x 41mm. Manual wind. 18K yellow gold. Power reserve, date disk, moonphase, and small (very small) seconds.

This watch arrived yesterday from a merchant in Germany. Before and during the purchase process I connected with a number of seasoned Daniel Roth collectors, especially in Italy which was its first market from 1989. I’m also fortunate enough to have access to the Eurostar archives, which covered his earlier references from the early 1990s onwards. The watch pictured here is from the mid-2000s. It channels Roth’s classicism with heft, the latter due to its solid 18K case back.

I realize this watch is from the Bvlgari period, and hope the moderators don’t mind that I post it here under ‘independent.’ This is out of my sheer respect for Monsieur Roth, his singularly independent mind, and far reaching influence.

Key Points from the Discussion

The Bvlgari acquisition of Daniel Roth included not only the brand name but also the designs and production capacity, ensuring continued service for Daniel Roth timepieces even after the name was phased out. This provides a 'silver lining' for collectors concerned about long-term serviceability.
Despite concerns about serviceability for independent brands, Bvlgari boutiques are often knowledgeable about Daniel Roth's history and continue to provide excellent service for these watches, offering peace of mind to collectors.
The Eurostar archives, with digitized publications from the 1950s and soon back to the 1930s, represent an invaluable resource for deep dives into watch industry and brand history, particularly for tracing the evolution of Daniel Roth's work from 1989 to 2001.
Daniel Roth's unique and instantly recognizable Ellipsocurvex case, paired with a charming dial, is considered a classic design that stands out in the world of independent watchmaking.
Some collectors, despite long-standing admiration for Daniel Roth, have only recently begun acquiring his watches, indicating a renewed or growing interest in his work.
While watches from the Bvlgari period are appreciated, some collectors feel a pull towards Daniel Roth's earlier work, particularly from his time at Breguet in the 1980s and his eponymous brand up to the mid-1990s, to experience what they consider the 'real Roth'.

The Discussion

Rosneathian

Mar 6, 2021

One of the pleasures of collecting is to reach into the back stories of individual watchmakers, brands and watches. I'm fairly eclectic so my web extends in a number of directions. I have to say though that I'm smitten by Daniel Roth past and present, and am on the look out for some of his work from Breguet onwards. Late to the show? Maybe yes, from the perspective of the cogniscenti. This is just a first toe-dip though, and I expect to immerse myself more deeply with the passage of time.

Rosneathian

Mar 6, 2021

The other two will be from the early 1990s. I also have an eye on Roth-era Breguet, such as the landmark (by some accounts) 3130.

Time to watch

Mar 6, 2021

It’s not everyday an independent watchmaker creates a case for a watch that is both unique and instantly recognizable. And when the dial matched to said case is just as charming it’s imho a classic. Enjoy yours in good health!

Rosneathian

Mar 6, 2021

This watch is of course from after Daniel Roth left the project, when he had to leave the use of his own name behind him. I find that quite - how to put it - unsettling? A case of artistry and commerce pulling something beautiful apart. So I actually have mixed feelings about this watch. It's certainly as you describe, but in order to experience the real Roth I'll be delving into his work at Breguet in the 1980s and then up to the mid-1990s with his own brand.

Watchonthewrist

Mar 6, 2021

A friend just added this stunning one

Watchonthewrist

Mar 6, 2021

Like you i am a big fan of DR watches for many years but just recently added a few . Don’t ask me why it took me so long to do so 🤷🏻‍♂️. But happy to have them in my collection now .

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Daniel Roth Ellipsocurvex Moonphase Watch Collection

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